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cracked firewall 

 

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 Post subject: cracked firewall
Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 12:11 am 
Parts Gopher
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well its finally happened, the firewall has cracked on my el xr6. so i got the ford clutch bracket (part no. xc 7k518 a), but i dont know if its the correct one. this one gets bolted up to the firewall. it also looks at bit flimsy too. is it worth welding up the crack first, then bolting up the re-inforcing bracket. any help would be appreciated.
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Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 12:17 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Unless you want the crack to get worse I'd definatly get it welded.

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 12:34 am 
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When mine cracked the first time - I just got it welded, and 1 small plate.

The 2nd time it cracked (well - ripped a big a** hole in the firewall), I got it welded with 2 big reinforcing plates either side.

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 12:34 am 
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how can u crack the firewall?

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 12:40 am 
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you can crack the firewall when the clutch cable bindes, or you have a heavy duty clutch. loks like its a common fault with the e series
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Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 1:09 am 
Getting Side Ways
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{USERNAME} wrote:
you can crack the firewall when the clutch cable bindes, or you have a heavy duty clutch. loks like its a common fault with the e series


indeed it is a common problem, weak as piss firewalls
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Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 1:11 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
how can u crack the firewall?

coomon problem on falcons
it is the pressure of the clucth pedal movement on the firewall combined with the clucth cable...

the firewall is too weak for it :(

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 2:16 pm 
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If your clutch cable is binding (another common issue), that doesn't help the situation either.
The link below was posted on here before - seems to be a good alternative/additional idea as well:
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread ... t=firewall

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 7:20 pm 
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Saw this recently on an AU ute ... tore the sheath on the clutch cable as well ... nice big hole in the firewall.

Get it welded properly with plating either side the first time ... then you won't have an issue afterwards.

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 7:55 pm 
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thanks for the info. whats involved in plating both sides of the firewall, does the pedal box have to be removed and all the insulation on the outside?
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Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 6:22 pm 
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Yup what a Bit*h of a job my ed did it too. id pull all the insulation of if ya dont want your car to burn to the ground. Why not look into a hydrualic setup of a BA? There would have to be some sort of conversion avail..

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 6:26 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Yup what a Bit*h of a job my ed did it too. id pull all the insulation of if ya dont want your car to burn to the ground. Why not look into a hydrualic setup of a BA? There would have to be some sort of conversion avail..

Would have to be a much better idea. 8-) :lol: :lol:

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 1:56 pm 
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My just broke this moring, funny thing is too I just picked up my clutch cable and clutch kit. I got to start the car put my foot on the clutch and BANG!! I look down and see the pedal straight on the wall. The NRMA membership sure does come in handy....My fire wall also has a nice tear mark and hole in it now. All I could do today was drop it off at the panel beaters, they wont be in until monday morning.

I might do what XR8chic has suggested and put 2 plates on either side, while its out might as well get it done properly the first time. I should probably get them to put in the braket as well and weld it all together.

Now I wonder what its going to cost??
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Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 3:25 pm 
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ba hydro is a good idea, cant be too hard to do but i hate the feel of the ba clutch its 2 light imo :D i took my nxt door neighbours xr6 magnet ute for a drive n fuk that clutch was light

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 4:58 pm 
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quick question, do they have to remove the engine to repair the fire wall or is there enough room if they remove the brake booster and extractors
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