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Had similar issues, was told to try Repco Thermo Quiet and very happy with the result.
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| Snailracing |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Had similar issues, was told to try Repco Thermo Quiet and very happy with the result. Thermo Quiets are a great everyday pad, but I wouldn't put them up against Bendix Ultimates or QFM's. And I work for Repco!
_________________ Only milk & juice should come in 2Ltr's |
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| phongus |
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So I am due for new front rotors and pads due to warping from a lot of neglect on my behalf.
I used to run DBA slotted with Bendix Ultimate pads. They make a great combination and I have had no issues with them. With financial constraints now, DBA and Bendix Ultimates are out of my budget and would like to replace with something semi decent at a more reasonable price. I don't drive as hard as I used, but I still want the stopping power. I have found a big difference between slotted and standard, so I was hoping to stay with slotted, however slotted is pricier and so I need to go down in quality and was searching for potential brands. I had a look at RDA, however they seem to be pretty pricey now, so looked at other alternatives which included this one I found on ebay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PAIR-VMAX-SL ... SwH71XOYly Seems too cheap and so I am a bit iffy on it. Anyone heard of Vmax or run them themselves? If these are worse than DBA/RDA standard, than I might as well go standard with higher quality. BTW, Burson sells DBA slotted rotors at $180 a corner. If I can get decent slotted rotors for $250 a pair that would be ideal. Anyone have other ideas? Cheers
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-FORD-Falco ... SwDk5TsiB3
I have used these and found them quite good. You can get slotted and drilled for $180 if you want. |
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| phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-FORD-Falcon-EF-EL-ABS-SLOTTED-FRONT-Disc-Rotors-with-Brake-Pads-/251968898244?hash=item3aaa8444c4:g:5~EAAOSwDk5TsiB3 I have used these and found them quite good. You can get slotted and drilled for $180 if you want. That's pretty cheap and I have heard of ADB, I used to get them confused with DBA thinking they were the same company. How long have you been running them and I assume no warping? Do you drive highway a lot or mix?
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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Found them quite good. Mainly city type driving, stop start etc
 . Pads were alos very good. |
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| phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Found them quite good. Mainly city type driving, stop start etc . Pads were alos very good. Thank you. I might just order these, I am sure they will be better than warped discs caused by binding brake pads  . Have ordered new boots/pins for the caliper sliders to avoid this happening again.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| snap0964 |
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See my post halfway down : post1431570.html
I remember the front discs were sprayed in silver - masking must've been too much of an effort - the inside bearing shells were painted too  Be careful with the ADB pads - they gave me a lot of grief. They sent me a replacement set for free, but they went the same way, even after the discs were machined. I ended up using QFM pads like I do on my other cars, no problem after that. IIRC the rear pads were okay. So if you're using ADB rotors and pads, if you experience shudder, etc within the first 100kms or so, get the pads out ASAP, so a different make shouldn't need any disc machining.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: See my post halfway down : post1431570.html I remember the front discs were sprayed in silver - masking must've been too much of an effort - the inside bearing shells were painted too Be careful with the ADB pads - they gave me a lot of grief. They sent me a replacement set for free, but they went the same way, even after the discs were machined. I ended up using QFM pads like I do on my other cars, no problem after that. IIRC the rear pads were okay. So if you're using ADB rotors and pads, if you experience shudder, etc within the first 100kms or so, get the pads out ASAP, so a different make shouldn't need any disc machining. Thanks for the heads up. Haven't ordered them yet and might hold out till next year. Plenty of pad left, so I will just deal with the shudder for a bit longer. Might check out other pads while I do my browsing.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| snap0964 |
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Well if your existing pads still have enough material, and you were happy with the feel, roughen them up with some 120GR paper on the ground and reuse. Get your new rotors, regrease the sliders, inspect/regrease front bearings, bleed the system (because that's probably not been done in a while), and you won't believe the difference.
Then you can take your time shopping for new pads.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Well if your existing pads still have enough material, and you were happy with the feel, roughen them up with some 120GR paper on the ground and reuse. Get your new rotors, regrease the sliders, inspect/regrease front bearings, bleed the system (because that's probably not been done in a while), and you won't believe the difference. Then you can take your time shopping for new pads. That sounds like a great idea. Will keep that in mind when everything arrives and I get some free time to give it some TLC.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| phongus |
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An update on what has happened since the last I posted.
I ordered ADB rotors through ebay which came with ADB brake pads. Visually I noticed there is a difference in quality between DBR and ADB products with DBR being better in both build and finish. The ADB rotor has less slots per rotor and the ventilation does seem inferior to DBRs kangaroo paw system. This might be a small thing, but the studs were different in the way they are coming out of the hub, not sure how to describe it, but it seems the ADB drilled a larger hole and then slotted the threads through, while DBR has the holes the same size as the stud making it look more flush...not a big deal, just noticing the differences. The ADB brake pads looked similar to any other brake pad, the major difference is the ends on the ADB surface pad is angled/cambered. This reduces the contact patch between pad and rotor initially, but as the pad wears down the contact pad increases. Not sure if that is a good thing or not. I ended up installing both ADB products as a trial to see how it goes. After 1000km or so of driving I have found the braking not as good as the previous combination, however that was to be expected. Since I don't drive as aggressively as I used to, it doesn't bother me too much. I'll drive the car until my next service and change the pads over to the older ones and see if that changes the grip level. I believe due to the smaller contact patch of the ADB pads, the braking seems to bite less, but that is just an assumption. {USERNAME} wrote: Well if your existing pads still have enough material, and you were happy with the feel, roughen them up with some 120GR paper on the ground and reuse. Get your new rotors, regrease the sliders, inspect/regrease front bearings, bleed the system (because that's probably not been done in a while), and you won't believe the difference. Then you can take your time shopping for new pads. I took your advice with regreasing the sliders and bleeding the system. I bought new sliders and boots and greased them with the given grease packet...the calipers move freely now don't bind on the rotor (which caused the warping to begin with). Found my bleed nipples were all worn out, so went to Pick-A-Part and got some better bleed nipples to replace them, bled the brakes and now the pedal feels less spongy. Bearings always get a clean and repacked with HTB grease. So thank you snap for the advice. For future reference, what grease should I use on the sliders? I have heard some grease may overheat and cause the sliders to stick, and some say don't use silicone based or something.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| Shortshift |
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{USERNAME} wrote: For future reference, what grease should I use on the sliders? I have heard some grease may overheat and cause the sliders to stick, and some say don't use silicone based or something. Try this stuff. I used to use other high temp grease but using the proper stuff is always best. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Synthetic-Di ... 3641.l6368
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| snap0964 |
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I can't remember the name of the grease Phong - was Bendix and was blue coloured - I have used high temp bearing grease, doesn't seem to bother the boots.
Do check the surface finish of those ADB pads when they come out - good investigation work BTW.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: For future reference, what grease should I use on the sliders? I have heard some grease may overheat and cause the sliders to stick, and some say don't use silicone based or something. Try this stuff. I used to use other high temp grease but using the proper stuff is always best. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Synthetic-Di ... 3641.l6368 Thank you, now I know Permatex have something specific for it. Will get one when the time comes. {USERNAME} wrote: I can't remember the name of the grease Phong - was Bendix and was blue coloured - I have used high temp bearing grease, doesn't seem to bother the boots. Do check the surface finish of those ADB pads when they come out - good investigation work BTW. Thank you snap. Have used HTB grease before and had issues, but could be due to dust getting into it as well. If money is tight, might stick with HTB grease or get the Permatex Shortshift mentioned. What signs should I be looking at when I pull the pads out? Never really looked at this stuff in detail but it has me curious!
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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