cheers dude...

So should I get DBA slotted or cross drilled?

mate you can go with either, they will both do the same job

People say that drilled crack, but under normal street driving loads they are fine... they are not recomended for track work which i doubt a fairlane will ever do anyway

Yeah sounds like good advice. I would think that they would have a good warranty anyway.
EBC green stuff for pads?

I would go the Ferodo Formula pads. I have run green stuff in the past, and plenty of other pads too, but when it comes to a GOOd quality pad, spend the coin and get Ferrodo Formulas. I did, $150 a set, but these pull up soooo much better than the EBC's, better pad feel as well, Do a complete circuit flush while your at it. put in atleast Dot 4 fluid. or go to a bike shop and get some dot 5. if you do a fluid change, your really gonna have to flush it well though.

Hey dc_todd,

Just a note on the brake fluid. The upgrade from DOT4 is DOT5.1. DOT5 is actually a silicone-based brake fluid which a lot of people warn against (imagine silicone spray lube on your rotors). Show car guys like DOT5 because it doesn't strip your paint if it drips.

Get the highest WET boiling point you can afford. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, so after a few months the dry boiling point is irrelevant. I use Motul RBF600 with a wet boiling point of 216C. It is actually still DOT4, but outperforms almost all DOT5.1 fluids. It is sometimes sold under house brands or own brands at a lower price (if it's 216C wet BP and 312C dry, it is the same stuff, different label).

Castrol SRF is in a class by itself (270C wet BP), but you pay dearly for the privilege.

As for brake pads, I have QFM HPX pads in both my XR6s, and they're better than anything else I have used, and make minimal dust.

I'm looking at getting DBA Slotted and Cross Drilled, upside all round for the BA. Couple them with Bendix Ultimates, should be nice. So far, price wise, around $200 a pair for the discs, and $100 a pair for the pads. $600 for discs and pads, plus a fluid flush etc should be no more than $800 total. I had a quote to get my brakes done at a brake joint, and for just basic flat discs and new pads, was $1100. NO THANKYOU!!

Hi, Sorry I don't know if I'm adding to a old thread or not but I thought I'd add my 2c.

In reguards to brake fluid - Be careful what you buy and use. Dot 5 for example has a much higher boiling temp than Dot 4, but it almost twice as hydroscopic (absorbs water). Dot 5 - Like most Race products is designed to be the best for a short period of time. Rally guys I know run Dot 5 for one event only and then flush the system again. Water in you brake fluid is your enemy! unlike brake fluid it compresses giving you a poor pedal feel, and Water as we all know makes rust, which again is bad.
Someone else here recommended using a high Boiling temp Dot 4, which for a road car I would also recommend.

Also, A lot you people are taking about having their Rotors machined. But has anyone bothered to ask HOW they are being machined????
Any disc, Old, New, Second hand will have run-out (wobble), and combine this with the run-out in the hub/wheel bearing assembly, and no matter how true the faces are you will still have run out. This is a problem because as the rotor rotates it will touch the pad face on one side, and then touch the pad face on the other side. Over time this will machine flat spots in the disc which you feel as shudder. Have a look at the YouTube video below to see what I'm on about.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMp5G9J1P48

So even if you put a brand new rotor onto a hub with run-out, over time the disc will develop flat spots and shudder will re-occur. This is the same if the rotors are removed from the vehicle and machined "off vehicle" one a brake lathe or similar.
The only way to match the disc to the hub is to machine the disc "on car" on the hub it is indented to be used on. Think of this like balancing a tyre and wheel. The rim can have some unbalance, and the tyre can have unbalance, and if these two unbalances are placed in the same place you get a large unbalance in one place.
Below is another YouTube video of the Pro cut On Car Brake Lathe and why a On Car Lathe is required.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fe7Ek0xVDY0

So why isn't every rotor installed on a car machined when installed? Basicly it's down to Cost, and Lack of understanding. Mechanic's don't see the point in buying new rotors and then charging/or paying to have them machined. And a lot of the time changing the discs either hides the problem long enough for it to never come back, Or the customer gets annoyed that they paid a lot of money for a brake job that didn't fix the problem so they take it to someone else.
It sounds like a lot of you are using EBC Green Stuff Brakes, but did you know they make Rotors too? Including slotted and drilled versions? EBC in the UK are the sales and Service agents for Procut On Car Brake Lathes (as seen in the YouTube video above), and all their Rotors including the 'sport' versions have a warranty notice packed in them that states if the Rotor isn't machined On Car when first installed, the warranty is void.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5N-BAQ8LUUg
Above is a video of them machine a set of EBC Slotted and Vented Rotors On Car, and this is as easy as it is to do. When machining 'sport' rotors you just need to do slightly lighter cuts, as if it is to heavy a cut the tips are likely to 'track' and try to follow the slots.

So if someone is Machining your Rotors, Make sure they use a On Car Lathe, Either a Procut, a Carole, or a Hunter, because if their not your spending money on something that won't fix the problem.

I read somewhere (tried to find a link but couldn't) that for normal road use, and not track use, modern brake pads actually work better with the normal rotors? I was considering front slotted rotors, but if I got a decent set of pads, would I actually notice a difference under normal use? And is that difference worth the extra dosh?

hey i have 1 warped front cross drilled rotor. i just want to know if it can be machined?
thanks

YES, Yes it can!

I respectfully disagree with DBA drilled discs - two sets and both cracked. Came down to pads(bendix Ultimates) but the drilled discs were also partly to blame as they get hot = cracks form, especially from the hub out.

Best thing you can do is dump Bendix and go QFM brand pads. Went the slotted only DBA's and QFM pads = 30000km trouble free motoring. And no dust!!

your a boss!!! thats good news for me

Which QFM's? I'm about to rip out the Bendix s**t on my DBA slotted rotors NOT Happy at all with the violent shudders after 2000k? (and have put up with it for ~8-10k) they were sweet out the box on new disc's but started to show ever increasing shudders over a short time with light (in the hills) braking.... and come sorta good after some heavy brake applications for a bit.... go figure..
Cheers,
GUNNING

QFM HPX are best for mainly street use. A1RM is better if you are doing a bit of circuit work, as they handle higher temps, but they bite a little less, and work better with some heat in them.