LOL

I was told by some numb scule to tack weld it in so it cant fly away

I got a oxy welder at home lol what an idot

Ok so new springs it is.

Are fronts harder to change the rears i dont mind buying $70 worth of tools and springs are $220 for front and back rite

ok so i got the point dont be a idot and cut springs

pretty much... it's not that it wouldn't look cool... cause lowered cars do... it is the safety aspect of it all... i've gotten anal like that since i found out i'm going to be a dad...

At the end of the day the risk wasn't worth the payoff...

Good luck with it all

All you need is the spring compressors for the front, you should be able to borrow some from a member , hire some or buy some they are cheap.

where in adelaide are you mate? i have some spring compressors and they only cost me about $15 from memory. as others have said you won't need compressors for the rear.

how low do you want to go? i have some springs sitting in my carport that are 320mm from centre of hub to guard, all round. not a very good ride as the shocks (even lowered ones) don't have much of their travel left but it looks tough. a couple of the pics in my gallery of the red eb still have them in. the one at mt panorama and one in the drive i think.

if you don't want to go that low then kings are around $115/pr front and rear if you get them from a distributor. the other pic in my gallery (on road in front of reserve) has kings sl's in front (345mm h.t.g) and rears are 335mm hub to guard. just to give you an idea. all cars tend to sit a little bit differently though.

that is the proper and safest way to do it however i've cut springs before and if you know what you are doing it's not as bad as what people make out. 1 coil shouldn't make too much difference to how the spring sits and it will still be trapped by the shock. its only when people go silly and have springs just floating around that you run into trouble and also why it is illegal as 90% of laws are made to accout for the lowest denominator (stupidest people). there's also the issue of reheating the spring in the area you cut.

as mentioned already though, for the cost of springs these days, its not really worth it.

I don't think there is a right way to cut springs!



The rate will change, because spring rate is determined by thickness and length. And obviously when you cut a spring you make it smaller, which changes its length, thus making it firmer.

I had cut springs in the rear & ever since I got new springs which are an inch lower then standard the car handles heaps better & no body roll.
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=40848

Cutting springs change the "coil rate" (bad) also lowered springs are thicker to allow for the shorter travel. NEVER CUT SPRINGS.

I could understand if it was number of coils & the thickness, but i can't see how the length of the spring changes the rate at which it compresses... I know you shouldn't cut them as they are too soft to be shorter, but i don't think it changes the rate at which it compresses? I'll go for a search on google but it doesn't quite make sense in my head

lowered springs will do sweet f*&k all for changing body roll, a set of thick swaybars will do that. (UNLESS your old springs shocks were shagged, even then the body roll will be as good as a stock falcon still).


at least youve seen sence, never take shortcuts around your car, esp on the things that keep you alive (aka suspension/brakes).

I just did my front springs in my AU. Thought it would be hard but with a Rattle gun we did each side in 45 mins. IRS a*** in the AU's even Easier.

One of the cruises last year in the Royal National park the car would not handle over 80km/h the a*** of the car was all over the place &
my rear sway bar bracket was broken aswell but all fixed now.

But the car at the royal national park how lowered was it because i only want 1 coil down to make it a inch lower not even

then get king lows.

Or custom

 

 

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