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| Daniel |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: A mate who works at DBA (no names please!) told me the drilled and or slotted stuff is sold primarily as an aesthetic thing......the 'long life' jobbies are the go for both street and track. That goes against all the independant and DBA tests that show a significant decrease in stopping distance with slotted rotors. Personally I noticed a huge difference when I upgraded to slotted and drilled rotors. As for the cracking, I have run mine really hard for 5 years now and they are still fine. I do believe that there were some issues when they first cam on the market, but they have now been around for close to 10 years and I have not heard of any issues recently. Also worth noting that DBA slotted rotors are not suppose to be used with EBC pads, I think thats where a lot of problems come from. I have personally seen a few cars these days with cracking rotors.. Stock and am! Last time I was getting stuff done they had a HSV in there with some very nice setup; had cracked rotors pretty nasty, looked nice too part from those cracks hehe. either way better than flat faced rotors imo.
_________________ BF Typhoon, Dejavu - 6sp Auto, Leather, Sunroof, 19"s, Electric Pedals, Tint, FPV Sports Wheel, FPV Mats. |
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| rida |
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thanks everyone for your say. that has deffinantly helped me. i dont do track work as we dont have a race track all we do is cruise around the streets!! so basically the rotor's are for apperance more than anyting!! how much should i be paying for a set cause i rekon the place's where i getting my prices from are quoting me $130 each i think thats too much. i just dont have s selection of places where i'm from there is only like 3 or 4 places to get them from. What is the best priced pad around that is good value?
(p.s my parents pay for abosolutly jack on my car) thanks
_________________ if it's under four litres its no good Last edited by rida on Tue Oct 18, 2005 9:27 pm, edited 2 times in total. |
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| Mr Man |
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try Cam at Hightek Brakes, i got a set of rotors off him, very happy with the service, i reccommend him. very good prices to
_________________ 300+rwkw HeadsexTuned XR6 Turbo Ute *NOW SOLD |
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| ED Wagon |
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Got an ED S/W.
Had crappy el cheapo pads and "so hot it went blue" discs due to the heat and no stopping power. Changed to the DBA slotteds and Bendix Ultimates, mate, these are a wicked setup. The performance slightly exceeded what I thort they were goin to be. But, the trade off, is a slight noise from the disc. Had a chat to a few brake guys, and my thoughts as well. Main thing come about the pads were so hard, they actually vibrate off the disc. Causing a very fast chattering noise. Might change to a slightly less aggresive pad, see how it goes. Most important of all, when upgrading brakes, also do your radius rod/control rod bushes. Otherwise the car will pull around like a mule if their worn.
_________________ Owned :
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| RockfordFosgate |
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I got the dba cross drilled and slotted with braided hoseson my el ...with bendes ultimate pads....and i would never go back ever.
i hav noticed a big difference i all brakig conditions and pads are the harder ones but they are lasting a hell of a lot longer. especially after i got the braided hoses. |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
{USERNAME} wrote: T
I would however suggest the DBA slotted 4000 Club Spec series rotors over the standard type. These are heat treated and won't warp. i would agree that, I have them on my EF XR6 5spd along with QFM racebrakes pads. I could not be happier with them, fade in all but the harshest abuse is just not an issue any more. the one time they do fade a little is on the return run down a local mountain road. good drive with speeds of up to 170km/h and as low as 40km/h with ALOT of very hard braking. even then it's only when braking for the last 3 or 4 turns and they are always back enough to slow you for the next turn. my standard brakes (dba standard rotors and a number of different bendix pads were tried ) just could not do it. I could hardly get 3 or 4 turns from the top and then have to nurse the brakes the rest of the way down. |
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| Chich |
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I run the 4000 series DBA rotors (unslotted) on my 96 Fairmont with bendix ultimates and am more than pleased with the way it pulls up. The pads however are very very dusty. I literally take the car around the block (4 stops) and a film of black dust starts to form on the wheels. Small price to pay in my opinion... theres nothing more gutwrenching than going through an intersection at mach 1 because Fords s**t discs and pads cant pull up a 1600kg boat. Man did i s**t myself....
My mate has fitted the racebrakes pads on his wrx and i must admit they're pretty good. Even with the standard rotor theres enough bite to put you through the window. I suspect disc wear might be an issue (pads sound very abrasive as the disc passes over them) and they tend to squeel quite badly when they're cold (in stop/start traffic for example) - similar to what a race cars brakes do when cold. Depending on what sort of disc wear the rex gets i may decide to try a set on my F**k. Judging by tickford_6's response above they work a treat..
_________________ V8 Windsor here we come..... |
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| data_mine |
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I run Lucas 'race' pads (I don't theink they're full race spec, just branded as such). Yeah they are more abrasive than regular pads, more dusty, and the squeal when cold. But until I can get a big rotor / mulit-pot upgrade they'll do (and do nicely).
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| unclewoja |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: T I would however suggest the DBA slotted 4000 Club Spec series rotors over the standard type. These are heat treated and won't warp. i would agree that, I have them on my EF XR6 5spd along with QFM racebrakes pads. I could not be happier with them, fade in all but the harshest abuse is just not an issue any more. What's the DBA part number because DBA don't list a 4000 series disc for an EF on their website. |
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| Spork |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I run Lucas 'race' pads (I don't theink they're full race spec, just branded as such). Yeah they are more abrasive than regular pads, more dusty, and the squeal when cold. But until I can get a big rotor / mulit-pot upgrade they'll do (and do nicely).
The Lucas pads arn't bad. I have had almost no fade even at the track after the disks went blue! for $75 a pair they are good. The downside is the high disk wear and dust. Softer pads would be better for the street.
_________________ Manual EL Gli.
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| data_mine |
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I found the combination of DBAs and Lucas pads last alot better than a stock setup (Ford OEM discs and pads).
I went 30,000Ks (three services) and had to replace discs and pads each time. Then I bit the bullet and forked out the little extra for good stuff, and my first set of DBAs discs lasted close to 40,000Ks, with only two sets of pads. For my money and performance I'll stick with the combination. And the downside of having to clean my wheels every week, or before any show/cruise.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| rida |
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thanks everyone again very helpful. the slotted rotors are on there way along with the lucas pads. should pull up the beast now its gonna have some brakes (that work)!!
_________________ if it's under four litres its no good |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
{USERNAME} wrote: What's the DBA part number because DBA don't list a 4000 series disc for an EF on their website. i have a look and see if i can dig up the number {USERNAME} wrote: Depending on what sort of disc wear the rex gets i may decide to try a set on my F**k. Judging by tickford_6's response above they work a treat.. going from the wear i'm getting i should get 3 sets of pads on my rotors befor needing new ones. i don't get any noise when cold. but if i drive for a few weeks with out giving the brakes a bit they get noisy. but a quick blat up and down the hill i was talking about fixes that up. |
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