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| samftr |
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Pirelli P6000 i think was the code. 225 50 16
I had on the ef, and they were on the wear bars, still gripped well. used them on the skidpan at gympie and beat an xr6 turbo with the oem tyres on that, and a 12 second nissan 200sx turbo thing. so they grip pretty damn well. i got about 30,000km out of them but they cost 200 bucks a tyre for the said parameters. sam
_________________ 175.7hp 15.5 @ 374,000km
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| t2te50 |
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anyones that tells you that 'SAVA'S ARE OK' are deranged!
1. poorly balanced 2. flimsy side walls for awesome roll through corners 3.wear like s**t because they're made of s**t. |
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| Johnson stroker |
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I would recommend yokie C.Drives, I had a set on my car, they are a very good tyre for the cost, quite a few mates have actually started running these as they have been in the car and have been impressed with them, I am Currently running Yokie Advan ES-100's on the front, they are good but probably not worth the $$ compared to the C.Drives, and on the rear I currently have Good Year F1's, Again I would go for C.Drives over these, they go off pretty quick and become spongy.
The C.Drives were the s**t! but you are always gonna get what you pay for. stay away from Ling Longs, Sava's and stuff like that, look at tread compounds and learn a bit about codings and speed ratings, these will also give you an idea of what you are buying and if the tyre is going to suit your application of you are going for overkill. Dave
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| ebjamie |
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I have Savas on the front.........the do Roll and absolute truck load but they came with the car.
The question is how fast do you go through a corner all the time. If you only go through corners at high speeds say once every month or so can you justify spending an extra $150 on each tyre. Sorry to get all Dad like 
A mate of mine reckons Perelli Dragons are really really good tyres.
_________________ Jesus Drove Fords
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| arm79 |
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Going through a wet corner at a snails pace can cause Savas to slide... They are really crap rubber.
All I can say, if you think Sava's are good, you've obviously never had a decent tire on your car - ever! Its not just about going through a corner fast in the wet or dry, its about braking, straight line traction and crash avoidance. Good rubber can be life saving, and is not something I'd ever skimp on in my car. Hence why I pay between the $800 and $1200 for a set of tires nearly every year. I at least know what my car is riding on is a decent and safe product. |
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| ebjamie |
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To answer your question, I have NEVER had a decent tyre on my car because whilst owning my cars I have never had to replace my tyres because I don't go driving like a spaz on public roads.
Every tyre sold on the Australian Market has to pass tests before they make the shelf. Adjusting driving styles to weather/traffic/road conditions also saves lives and unnecessary sliding.
_________________ Jesus Drove Fords
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| Steady ED |
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ebjamie wrote: To answer your question, I have NEVER had a decent tyre on my car because whilst owning my cars I have never had to replace my tyres because I don't go driving like a spaz on public roads.
Every tyre sold on the Australian Market has to pass tests before they make the shelf. Adjusting driving styles to weather/traffic/road conditions also saves lives and unnecessary sliding. So basically, you are saying they are "safe enough"
_________________ ED XR8 Sprint - S-Trim, V500, 249rwkw |
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| ebjamie |
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What I am saying is that they are safe.
Its like comparing a Volvo to a Falcon. Sure Falcons are safe, but Volvos are safer. You cant just put something like tyres on the market and have the attitude like: 'Yeah it might work' - they work, sure there are probally better products out there but they work, it would have been tested thoroughly
_________________ Jesus Drove Fords
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| arm79 |
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ebjamie wrote: To answer your question, I have NEVER had a decent tyre on my car because whilst owning my cars I have never had to replace my tyres because I don't go driving like a spaz on public roads.
Every tyre sold on the Australian Market has to pass tests before they make the shelf. Adjusting driving styles to weather/traffic/road conditions also saves lives and unnecessary sliding. I'll admit that I drive my car enthusiastically, but this doesnt contribute much to tire wear. If you have a set of tires on a car that haven't needed replacing for 50 or 60,000 km, then I would call them unsafe. They would be a hard cheap compound that does zip when you are trying to emergency brake or emergency swerve. Adjusting to the road/traffic conditions wont avoid this. Some food for thought: a)Put your Savas on the back end of your car and drive in the wet. Chances are they will spin without the slighest attempt at you making them. Then put say my SP3000's on there (XR6 factory fitment) and see how much harder they are to spin. Mum had the same problem with her Eagle GA's that came on her NL when she bought it. Upgraded to some decent Bridgestones, and she has never had a problem again. b) In one of the last Wheels tire tests, the worst and cheapest tire pulled a bog stock Commo up 4.5 metres longer than the best tire in the emergency brake test. We both know thats .5 of a metre off the length of your car. It will make the difference between u slamming into a person or a car. Adjusting your driving, like we all do, to the conditions wont save you from an emergency you cant avoid. P.S. All these crap tires are tested and have passed these tests that makes them "safe" for sale in the Australian market. |
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| ebjamie |
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Fair enough, that makes sense.
I do have SP3000 on the back and Savas up front. Then saying this all and this is a good discusion, so I thank you for it AMR79 that the Savas are a safe tyre, but there is other options out there like with anything. You pay more you get more.
_________________ Jesus Drove Fords
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| madmax |
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ebjamie wrote: To answer your question, I have NEVER had a decent tyre on my car because whilst owning my cars I have never had to replace my tyres because I don't go driving like a spaz on public roads.
Every tyre sold on the Australian Market has to pass tests before they make the shelf. Adjusting driving styles to weather/traffic/road conditions also saves lives and unnecessary sliding. If I bought a secondhand car with tyres that only just made the grade, they'd be off in the first week. I wouldn't risk my families lives on them.
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| fnp |
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Age: 39 Posts: 4401 Joined: 25th Mar 2005 Ride: BA XT, BA XR6T, ED Ghia 5.0 Location: Perth |
I'd rather pay an extra hundred bucks a tyre then go into a pole and do 3k damage. Don't skimp on tyres with a car like a BA XR6.
_________________ What's the difference between a Holden and a sheep? It's less embarrasing getting out of the back of a sheep.. |
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| Adam_Legs11 |
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arm79 wrote: If you have a set of tires on a car that haven't needed replacing for 50 or 60,000 km, then I would call them unsafe. They would be a hard cheap compound that does zip when you are trying to emergency brake or emergency swerve. Adjusting to the road/traffic conditions wont avoid this. I had Sumitomo's on the rear that came with the car, they were a harder compound, held up pretty good in the dry till they were down to the markers but the s**t tyre in the wet, it was an effort at some traffic lights not to spin them  . They were pathetic when they were close to markers too, i slid around a roundabout turning right with no throttle! Never again! No problem at all with the Goodyear Eagles, had 2 on the car for between 15,000-20,000ks and they have very very minimal wear, theres maybe a few mm less rubber than on the 2 brand new ones I've got on it. Highly reccomed them and they have the most amazing grip in the wet and dry
And it never really occured to me until i did a defensive driving course that you only have that small bit of the tyre holding you onto the road at a time! So you wanna get the best you can get.
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| samftr |
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Well, I have tried and tested the Pirellis on the ef, and it was stock standard at the time, on lpg and I beat an XR6 turbo manual, and a 12 second nissan silvia around the skidpan at gympie by 3 seconds.
The xr6 turbo had 17 inch factory fitted items with plenty of tread, my pirellis were on the wear bars just across the middle but there was a bit of tread on the edges, and yeah I beat the xr 1.07 was my time and 1.10 was the xr turbos time but its all about your budget. can you afford 200 a corner tyre or more? Also, has anyone ever driven on Good year grand rally S (standing for s**t) also available with the same tread pattern - Remmington LOL those tyres should never have passed australian standards testing, worst heap of garbage I have ever driven on!
_________________ 175.7hp 15.5 @ 374,000km
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| smoke_ |
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samftr wrote: Also, has anyone ever driven on Good year grand rally S (standing for s**t)
HAHAHA yeh those tyres are s**t. My mini had that as a spare tyre and you could spin it everywhere. Dads old auto mazda 626 (the rear wheel drive ones) had them on the back and the car felt fast cause you could spin them off a set of lights.
_________________ NEW RIDE - FPV FG F6 6spd Auto. 12.26@114MPH, 1.88 60FT on Cheapy Tyres with 38PSI - Stock except K&N filter! |
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12.06@120MPH