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Last edited by itlookslikeaxr6 on Wed Sep 02, 2009 9:16 am, edited 4 times in total.

hi, use your ed computer in the conversion, your auto ed tailshaft and crossmember as the ea ones will be different.

dont bother wasting your time with the pedal box, just get a mal wood clutch pin and install it in the auto box. takes about 10 mins.. costs $105 plus postage and saves hours ripping the dashes out.

use your automatic gearbox loom wiring it to the ea box as per voxace's wiring guide... the colours will be different (guide is for EL), but on the 4 pin square auto plug two of the wires are neutral, 2 of the wires are reverse switch..

to find which is which, when the pairs are joined, one will allow your car to start and one will light the reverse lights...

it's real easy... dont stress and the manual box speedo sender will plug straight up to the auto loom.

that other loom you find with the auto loom( there's 2 looms in there) with the big round plug that goes into the gearbox, throw it in the bin.

also ignore the firewall reinforcement plate, it wont stuff your firewall if you dont overadjust your clutch.. that's why they break.

job done.

Thanks for your help,



I would need to use the EL ecu if i do the BBM conversion?

Rather save the dosh considering the pedal box is here and only thing stopping me from using it it time and effort.

Thanks for your help,

Regards.

To get the full benefit from the BBM, yes use the EL ECU.
Brett

Thanks for your advice Brett.

Regards,

Michael.

Today's mission: Remove manual pedal box from EA
Mission status: Complete

I read in several threads it was a 4 hour job to remove the dash and pedal box. After 1 hour i had the dash unscrewed but most wires still plugged in and the pedal box unbolted then removed.

Not that hard of a job,

Note, i already had the front seats unbolted so i moved them out of the way allowing me to lay on my back with head near the pedals.

After looking around and choosing my plan of attack I removed the clutch pedal from the box. This may be a lot harder from someone bigger then me, IE average adult.



I unbolted a single bolt holding part of the handbrake on.



Using my weapon of choice



I removed the 5 nuts holding the back of the pedal box on



After realising the pedal box still wasn't even wiggling i went on the hunt for the rest of the bolts. During this time i managed to also remove the pin holding the brake pedal and unhooked it from the booster. I dropped down the steering column with 2 nuts and un-plugged a few wires. I ventured behind the cluster and saw 1 bolt which gave me hope. After feeling behind the air con duct i could feel 3 in total.



From here i needed to start removing the dash. After removing the top panel across the dash i undid about 5 screws that were 100 turns to long! It dropped forwards a little perhaps enough to get a spanner in there. But i opted to undo 4 bolts which pretty much completely dropped the dash out. 4 either side of were the centre console air con duct meets the duct from the heater box or whatever and another 2 either side behind the kick panels going up.



This revealed the 3 nuts which i removed with 2 zaps each of the air gun.



Now i have the pedal box out ill start removing the gearbox



After the gear box is out ill go and buy everything needed like resistors to trick the EL ecu i have.

Good work there mate.

Yes, use the EL ECU if you want to get any benefit from the BBM. Works great in mine.

BenJ

Surprised myself and got the gear box out tonight
There was some good points with removing the T5.
The oil looked brand spankin, nice clean red.
Has exedy clutch plate.
The gearbox its self has a near new coat of gloss black paint under the dirt leads me to think it has been rebuilt like the previous owner mentioned.
pedal box in good condition, may end up doing so small reinforcing

A few questions, does it matter which way the clutch plates goes on, i can't remember which way it was on there. Only 1 side has writing and 1 side is slightly dirtier than the other



Does this clutch pedal end of the clutch cable look normal where the slit is? The rest seems to be in good condition moves freely no kinks ect.



Will i be able to use the same tail shaft?
Do i need the manual gearbox loom from the EA? or just the one i get from the Auto in mine.





After this adventure i was thinking of just dropping it in to the local gearbox place where dad gets work on his cabs done and pay them to do it in an hour or so. Or see if dad mates that does our RWC has his car lift free and wants to lend a hand.

This car cost me $150 and im really happy with my value for money so far.

Tomorrow i will attempt to get the ecu and wiring loom ready has a have a spare auto loom sitting on the ED motor from my first car. I want to leave my car together for as long as possible and get it all done in a day or two.

I am preparing a spare ED auto loom i have to go with the EA T5 i just took out of the EA.

I have using a couple of threads and voxace's tech doco but it's for the EF EL.

I have just stripped down the wiring and the ED wire colours are different to the EF EL like in the doco.

Does anyone know what colours i need on the auto plug to do the resistor trick to turn my auto ecu into a manual one.

The colours are as follow on the round black plug
Colour___Stripe
Purple
Purple___White
Blue_____Orange
Yellow___Red
Green___White
Green___Black
Green___Red
Yellow___Green
Yellow
Green
Blue____Yellow
Green___Yellow

Many thanks in advance,

Feel free to link me to something useful if its not to much trouble,

Regards,

Michael.

hi..
The colours are as follow on the round black plug on the auto trans loom

Purple = gear position
Purple___White = gear position- 7 k resistor between these two.
Blue_____Orange =trans temp
Blue____Yellow =trans temp - 1.2 k resistor between these two

Yellow___Red - the rest are for trans solinoids and are not needed for the manual..
Green___White
Green___Black
Green___Red
Yellow___Green
Yellow
Green
Green___Yellow
Regards,
troy.........................

also the clutch plate it should have something like f/w side for flywheel side or t/s for trans side it should be marked near the centre...

thats the same clutch i got in my ed , and its a damn fine clutch!!!

Thanks for your help Troyman Good clutch aye....Did yours cost $150 and come with a complete car Don't mean to boast.... in a bad way.... very tired...sleep time regards,michal

lol na its ok!
the clutch was about $250
compared to the valeo hd clutch and the pbr hd that was in mine before that,
the exedy clutch is king!!! lol

Good news, Got to a d**k smiths that had stocked "parts" and got me 2 of each of the resistors. I was like aww yer what $1 each sweet as but no....10c each for two 1w 1.2k and two 1w 7k.

Tomorrow morning i will finish off the auto loom and then attack my car after helping dad pull new springs and shockies in sisters vitara so i can drive that around if mine doesn't go together and i need a car.

Regards.

Auto is nearly ready to come out, just have to get the hard second starter motor bolt and a few more bell housing bolts, then take of the gearbox cross member. Thou when attempting to loosen off these bolts i slipped and hit the bony part of my forearm and took a chuck out needing 6 stitches. Highly annoying as i have to keep it totally clean and dry because there is a higher chance of infection due to have having grease on my arms and in the cut from what i hit it on.

I got the manual pedal box in, but the EA box must be different some how. i put the brake pedal on but there isn't much travel in the pedal it doesn't seem to come out enough. it sits closer to the firewall then the accelerator does and sit well away from what ever the switches it is suppose to hit is brake light i assume. And i don't know if there is a plug for the switch on the brake pedal.