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| zacwig |
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{DESCRIPTION}{DESCRIPTION}{DESCRIPTION}{DESCRIPTION}
Sorry about the s**t quality I was running out of daylight and only had my phone  Anyway I absolutely destroyed my clutch on Friday night, but I'm not sure how I managed to break my flywheel. Has anybody ever seen something like this happen? Is it worth buying a steel flywheel instead of a standard cast one? Cheers Zac
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| Stealth6 |
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Holy s**t!
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| cjh |
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Steel flywheels don't have the same friction coeffiecent ( for want of a better word
 ) as a cast iron flywheel......in other words, the cast one has better grippage than a steel one.High quality steel flywheels have a replaceable cast iron insert.
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| ausedwagon |
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im running a cro-molly flywheel from extrem and with an organic 10.5" and its putting up with 750nm just... this is the second clutch on the flywheel i killed a cast one.
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| CPOCSM |
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Most flywheels are a two piece item and are cold pressed together during the manufacture stage. This means the company can make up the centre blanks and then add the ring gear, depending on what application it is going on. They are cooled and then the ring gear is interference fitted to the centres. If you overheat a flywheel...this is what can happen. Minis are notorious for it as are Mazda rotaries due to them getting hot, contamination of the faces of the clutch and general abuse. You usually know when a mini one lets go when the ring gear separates and embeds itself in the firewall adjacent to your feet, usually between the brake and clutch pedal...I know as it happened on a trip to Sydney and scared the shiznats out of me!
Look for a single piece fly but be prepared to pay for it. Forget the stainless steel bling items as that is what they are, bling! Cast iron is better in normal day to day stuff and most racing applications and can be balanced/lightened easier too. A word of caution though, make sure you get the WHOLE clutch, pressure plate, fly and crank balanced as one as they can throw each other off and this could be catastrophic for the driver...considering if it lets go it will rake across your ankles as it separates from your drivetrain and punches through the transmission tunnel. Just from seeing too many let go while at Wakefield and elsewhere tracks...rotaries are spectacular when they let go though and usually go straight up. Wrecks your engine as well as your bonnet and firewall  Hooroo |
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| zacwig |
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Thanks guys I will be putting on a second hand flywheel I had siting around for now as I couldn't afford a flywheel and clutch at the moment. I also just ordered a HD clutch kit to go in as a replacement and shouldn't have any worries with that.
Cheers Zac
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| GeZza200 |
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I have a lightened billet steel flywheel with a 4 puk button clutch. It can take a 4000rpm clutch dumps and revs up very easily. Nothing wrong with steel flywheels at all.
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
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| Six |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I have a lightened billet steel flywheel with a 4 puk button clutch. It can take a 4000rpm clutch dumps and revs up very easily. Nothing wrong with steel flywheels at all. Is your's the setup Paul has on the CVE Facebook page?
_________________ MGW Short Throw Shifter, CVE Cam, CVE Head, SS Big Mouth Air Intake, Pacemaker Headers, 3" Exhaust, 3" Varex, 3" Cat, 19" Silver Agents, EMS Stinger 4424, 42lb Injectors and Walbro 255lb Fuel Pump |
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| GeZza200 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: I have a lightened billet steel flywheel with a 4 puk button clutch. It can take a 4000rpm clutch dumps and revs up very easily. Nothing wrong with steel flywheels at all. Is your's the setup Paul has on the CVE Facebook page? Na mine is different, mine has been lightend and it's a 4 puk clutch
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
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| Six |
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Nice one! , I'm going to have to look at getting mine done soon I think...
_________________ MGW Short Throw Shifter, CVE Cam, CVE Head, SS Big Mouth Air Intake, Pacemaker Headers, 3" Exhaust, 3" Varex, 3" Cat, 19" Silver Agents, EMS Stinger 4424, 42lb Injectors and Walbro 255lb Fuel Pump |
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| cjh |
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I bought a steel flywheel for my slant 6....it has integral ring gear teeth, and takes a 10" clutch.
I got the 5 puck clutch plate for it, and is suppose to handle 450 rwhp.
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| mr. cve |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Steel flywheels don't have the same friction coeffiecent ( for want of a better word ) as a cast iron flywheel......in other words, the cast one has better grippage than a steel one.High quality steel flywheels have a replaceable cast iron insert. Huh ? A billet steel flywheel, that can handle high RPM has a granulated iron section where the heat is ? What sort of grain structure holds it together ? I would be quite interested to see one of those flywheels SFI rated ? |
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| cjh |
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Here is a 2 piece flywheel........... http://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com/Tr ... l-Flywheel
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| cjh |
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I forgot to mention, that clutch kit and flywheel ( for the slant 6 ) is for a drag car, not a street car.
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