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MICKYYYY wrote: What do all these additibes do exactly??? anti rust/corrosion slime/sludge/scale build up eliminators lubrication (for water pump) |
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MICKYYYY |
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Looks as thou Organic engine coolant is the way to go people, still doing some more research to find the better products in the local Australian market.
Pretty much everything that we can buy from Super Cheap Auto & Autobarn just do the job and entry level stuff. cjh Nulon long life coolant is Hybrid Acid Technology and it seems that OAT (Organic Acid Technology) or HAT Hybrid Acid Technology are the better products to use. Still looking into this as its very interesting and will report back in what i find but if ur using Tectaloy Gold or Long life and Nulon long life coolant ur on the right track of what technology to use.
_________________ Wanted Either Capri/Cortina/XY/XW/XR/XT with tough V8 stroker engine, auto, 9inch, upgraded brakes etc[/SIZE][/size][/color] |
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V8 Ghia Mike |
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I was chatting with some TAFE automotive lecturers and they told me to never run coolant over 30% water/additive ratio. Too strong actually causes electrolysis which eats away your alloy engine parts. I always ran the mix (Castrol anti freeze/boil) stronger than that. I'm really worried about what is happening inside my Windsor's timing cover these days...
Mike
_________________ EF Ghia 5.0 - XR8 in a tuxedo....classy, low and loud |
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Sommers NL |
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MICKYYYY wrote: Well my car runs super cool so i only need something for rust/corrosion. Any products u recommend guys??? if your running so cool, what thermostat do you have in it? a 70oC one? does your heater work?? laticia.
_________________ BANNED!!!! |
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MICKYYYY |
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I have a 72 degree thermostate and i also have a ADRAD high performance radiator.
Standard and standard replacement radiators out there have 2 row 10mm tubes where mine has 2 row 12.7mm tubes so that helps it cool even more.
_________________ Wanted Either Capri/Cortina/XY/XW/XR/XT with tough V8 stroker engine, auto, 9inch, upgraded brakes etc[/SIZE][/size][/color] |
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cjh |
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V8 Ghia Mike wrote: I was chatting with some TAFE automotive lecturers and they told me to never run coolant over 30% water/additive ratio. Too strong actually causes electrolysis which eats away your alloy engine parts. I always ran the mix (Castrol anti freeze/boil) stronger than that. I'm really worried about what is happening inside my Windsor's timing cover these days... Mike What a crock of sh!t!!!!! Castrol recommend using their anti freeze/anti boil at the 50% mark. If you exceed 68% mix.....it doesn't move the heat, just keeps it in place. If I remember...50% mix raises the boiling point by about 9*. Other car Manufacturers usually use a 50% mix. Using crap coolant, mixing brands, mixing types ( HAT, OAT ), stray current, or not enough mix is the main cause of corosion in the cooling system.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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fordman351 |
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Does anyone have any grumbles against genuine Ford coolant? I've been using it in the the BA donk, but if everyone reckons the Nulon and Castrol stuff is the way to go, i may have to convert.
Coolant is a bit of a grey area for me, i hate the stuff and hate anything to do with the cooling system (long story), never looked into how it works and what dosage is best. |
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voids |
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isnt glycol an oil base product? oil being non conductive opposed to water the more coolant concentrate the less current or electrolisis build up, makes sense to me.
Ford coolant is good stuff but the nulon meets and exceeds the standards of ford coolant and cheaper, this is the same for castrol.
_________________ '96 DF II LTD 6cy |
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cjh |
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The Ford stuff......the old R1-50 ( red in colour ) was an HAT type...and the green stuff ( R1-33 ) is OAT....or is it the other way round??????.....I can't remember.
There was some other green coolant they had, it was Glycol....maybe R1-32????? The old Blue coolant was R1-3B.....good if you used 3 botttles, but only a corosion inhibitor. Been too long since I had a look at the stuff. I left the Ford dealership at the end of 2001.
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