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| twase |
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My EF auto has started going in to Limp mode occasionally. Cycling the ignition solves the problem in the short term.
I have run the diagnostics and it indicates 2 problems , First is 691 S1 faulty and the other is 634 selector switch out of range. I find it unlikely that both are at fault as the selector display on the cluster shows the correct gears as I cycle thru them. If the problem is with S1 then how much are they to purchase from FORD or are there after market ones available? I believe the solenoid position is marked on the valve body, if this is not the case does someone have a drawing showing which one is S1. Cheers TW.
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| Disco Frank |
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clean the selecotr switch on the gearbox
big white plug on the passenger side seems to have fixed simalar problems on other members cars
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| joolz |
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S1 is the shift soleniod, ive replaced mine already. A simple job all you need of corse is a new soleniod (bosch) 5ltrs of specified fluid, new filter and new pan gasket. Should take you about an hour or can have it replaced for around $250-300. It cost me all up in parts about $150.
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| twase |
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{USERNAME} wrote: S1 is the shift soleniod, ive replaced mine already. A simple job all you need of corse is a new soleniod (bosch) 5ltrs of specified fluid, new filter and new pan gasket. Should take you about an hour or can have it replaced for around $250-300. It cost me all up in parts about $150.
How easy is the solenoid to replace, I assume that it can be done by removing the pan and without removing the valve body, am I correct? So far FORD is the cheapest for the solenoid at $75, the pan gasket and filter is $40 and the fluid is $30, so your $150 seems correct. They want $110 for the switch though. I might clean it as Disko Frank suggests and see how it goes. Cheers TW.
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| Disco Frank |
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clean it first
the valve body has to be lowered but not removed
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| joolz |
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DO NOT touch the valve body, it can be done simply by removing the pan, filter and to remove the soleniod mounting bolt use an allen key as a torx bit wont fit in there. One thing when removing the filter beware as a small amount of fluid will gush out from the fitting, it dont taste that good!! Also be careful when removing soleniod plug as it may be a little brittle from age and what its exposed too. You may notice on the new soleniod there is a fine gauze filter in the end, i guess this is too keep them cleaner thus they will last longer.
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| joolz |
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One more thing DONT buy the parts from ford, go to a transmission place and ask for the genuine soleniod (bosch) the fluid , pan gasket and filter only cost me $50 but that was trade. Ford are too expensive but if you cant get after market parts you have no choice. My steering shaft assembly cost enough and that was close to trade....
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| twase |
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{USERNAME} wrote: One more thing DONT buy the parts from ford, go to a transmission place and ask for the genuine soleniod (bosch) the fluid , pan gasket and filter only cost me $50 but that was trade. Ford are too expensive but if you cant get after market parts you have no choice. My steering shaft assembly cost enough and that was close to trade....
Thanks Joolz, The cheapest from a transmission place so far is $85, $10 more than Ford. REPCO don't have the S1 but they do stock the service kit. Oil I will get from supercheap. Cheers TW.
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| twase |
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Picked up the solenoid, fluid and filter today, already to go on the weekend.
What size is the torx screw and where is it positioned, is it easy to get to or do I need a special one to do it without droping the valve body? Cheers TW.
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| joolz |
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You may not get into it with a torx bit, i used an allen key. It will be tight until u crack it (not literally) the soleniod is on the rear passenger side of the trans, it will be marked as S1, the screw is fitted horizontaly and has a small plate behind it to hold the soleniod. The larger one beside it at the very rear in a steel casing is the damper soleniod which is another common fault in these transmissions, just to give you an idea of what it looks like and position if it ever gives you problems.
Its easier to remove the plug before removing soleniod as it has a clip to hold it secure. the sump pan has a small magnet about the same size as a 20 cent pce, clean it and the pan as they may have a build up of steel deposites (from normal wear and tear) its not glued down as it sticks by its self. Its a pretty straight forward job so good luck. After its all done erase the fault codes so the next time if you have problems you know the codes will be current. |
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| twase |
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Thanks Joolz, I have some small Torx bits that fit into a hex driver, I also have a small hex ratchet , otherwise a small spanner on the bit should get it removed.
Cheers TW.
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| twase |
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Thanks once again Joolz, its all done.
2 hours after 2 pan drops, 2nd because the pan seal did not seat properly. You were correct about the brittle clips on the solenoids , it broke when I looked at it, just the retainer though. Also correct about the taste of ATF  I reset the fault codes as you suggested. I have a trip down south next week so I should be able to see if it is all fixed.
Cheers TW.
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| joolz |
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hahaha so u got a mouthful when u dropped the filter!! you will know next time as i did!!! glad to help you out and good to know its all ok.
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| twase |
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{USERNAME} wrote: hahaha so u got a mouthful when u dropped the filter!! you will know next time as i did!!! glad to help you out and good to know its all ok. Well not exactly, I got a taste as I was filling it up the first time and it leaked out from the pan where I didnt get the seal correct.
Thanks once again for your help.
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