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EF2 Diff ratio's 

 

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 Post subject: EF2 Diff ratio's
Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:21 pm 
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Just wondering wat ratio is in a EF2 Classic? Prob been asked b4 but need to know...

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:30 pm 
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Depends on what was ordered at the time of purchase. It could be 3.08:1, or 3.23:1. The 3.08 was std fittment. If it does 1,800 rpm @ 100kph in 4th, then it will be 3.08's. There is a sticker on the diff, ( the right hand side axle tube), should be yellow in colour and has the ratio and serial number on it, if its still there.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:38 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Depends on what was ordered at the time of purchase. It could be 3.08:1, or 3.23:1. The 3.08 was std fittment. If it does 1,800 rpm @ 100kph in 4th, then it will be 3.08's. There is a sticker on the diff, ( the right hand side axle tube), should be yellow in colour and has the ratio and serial number on it, if its still there.

It does indeed sit on 1,800 rpm at 100km/h... How much gain would there be in getting a 3.45 diff? Performance wise... Im slowly gonna save my extra cash and do some performance mods to the old girl...

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:44 pm 
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It does help somewhat, especially when a decent cam goes in. I have an 88EA that had 2.92's (LSD) in it (std at that time for manual, & 2.77 for autos), and I changed them to 3.27's from an EBII. It has helped a lot, noticed more pull in 3rd and up.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:45 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
It does help somewhat, especially when a decent cam goes in. I have an 88EA that had 2.92's (LSD) in it (std at that time for manual, & 2.77 for autos), and I changed them to 3.27's from an EBII. It has helped a lot, noticed more pull in 3rd and up.

Well the cam is my first stop... looking at a wade 1636... wat u think about them? u seem to know ya gear :d

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:53 pm 
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Firstly, I prefer billet cams. Had bad experiences with reground cams years ago, but thats not to say that the regrinds that Wade do are sh!t, they may have a better process to reharden the lobes after grinding, but you then have the hassle of seting up rockers/HLA's, because you don't know how much of the base circle was removed to get the extra lift.
There is a lot in it, & sometimes too much knowledge can be a drawback.
I'm going to use a Crow custom grind in mine, 282 inlet, 292 exhaust.
Horses for courses. I don't know the specs of the afore mentioned Wade cam.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 8:01 pm 
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I just wanna get more low-medium rev range improvements without having to replace everything. Wat cam would ne 1 recommend?

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 8:09 pm 
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Just see what Wade cams say about the cam, wether you need a modified ECU, and valve springs, etc....
They'll help if you ask them.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 8:13 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Just see what Wade cams say about the cam, wether you need a modified ECU, and valve springs, etc....
They'll help if you ask them.

They dont require ne thing no ecu or shims. But i have also been warned about regrinds (not wade though) by a mate... But wouldnt mind something a bit bigger even if i need to replace rockers or springs or s**t like that... Like i said b4 im just learning so bare with me....

 

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