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| EL Grrrr |
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Hi all,
I'm in the process of converting brothers EL Auto to a T5 and have hit a hurdle with the wiring trick! I downloaded the PDF file a real gem of a manual on doing a T5 Conversion for EF/EL plus a simple solution for tricking the Auto into thinking all is well but for the EF/EL. Only problem is that when I've looked at the wiring my loom appears not to carry the same colors - and I don't seem to have a plug up towards the motor? I've unwrapped it right up and may undo more still to see if there are any joins. Now when I look at the wiring pattern in my manual (Gregory's) it doesn't match my wiring loom but is close (I'm wondering if the prior owner changed it out for a different model) The car has LPG and I'm not sure if alterations have been made for this? So can anyone tell me what color wires does the resistor trick on? And what other wiring I need to do for the Conversion without putting in a Manual ECU? Do I need any new plugs etc... Thanks for any assistance.
_________________ My dream car is one that costs me nothing at all and gets me from point A to B and Back without breaking down. |
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| snap0964 |
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The EL' s have the transmission wiring integrated with the engine loom.
Auto inhibitor switch (4 wire plug): Join the red/blue & black green wires (starter motor relay). The two red/black wires go to the T5 reverse switch. Auto inhibitor switch (2 wire plug): 7k ohm resistor across the black/white and pink/green (might be purple) wires. Round transmission plug: find a black/white wire, connect a 1.2k ohm resistor to it, connect it to a blue/yellow (or yellow wire).
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| phongus |
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cool...thanks for asking the question EL Grrrr...going to do mine in 2 or 3 weeks when I have time off work and thanks to snap for always giving such excellent information =D
phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| EL Grrrr |
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Thanks Snap that's going to make things a little easier.
Can I just cut off the other wires that go to the big round plug (that goes into Auto) or do I need to leave that connected??? Damn I knew I should've stopped unwinding it before I got so far up the loom, well I can just tape it all up again and put all those bits back I took off.
_________________ My dream car is one that costs me nothing at all and gets me from point A to B and Back without breaking down. |
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| MooseMan |
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what PDF are you talking about?
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| snap0964 |
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EL Grrrr wrote: Thanks Snap that's going to make things a little easier. phongus wrote: cool...thanks for asking the question EL Grrrr...going to do mine in 2 or 3 weeks when I have time off work and thanks to snap for always giving such excellent information No probs fellas.EL Grrrr wrote: Can I just cut off the other wires that go to the big round plug (that goes into Auto) or do I need to leave that connected??? Doesn't really matter what you do with them - I've found some ECU's give out fault codes for the solenoids, some don't. You can hook up 120 ohm resistors to simulate the solenoids, but this is only to cut down getting 7 error codes when you go to do ECU diagnostics. The error codes themselves won't affect the way the car drives.
Damn I knew I should've stopped unwinding it before I got so far up the loom, well I can just tape it all up again and put all those bits back I took off.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| EL Grrrr |
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Thanks again snap I had a look at my wiring, which someone prior had fiddled with (seems that removed wiring and ran one wire (black/white) to two plugs.
Can you tell me which wires the 120K resistors go to and from. Thanks
_________________ My dream car is one that costs me nothing at all and gets me from point A to B and Back without breaking down. |
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| EL Grrrr |
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Mooseman the PDF was created by someone using the Mal Wood Clutch pedal pin, it shows the entire process from start to finish.
I can't recall where I downloaded it from. I'll try to find where I downloaded it from as I'd like to add a bit more information to it for him.
_________________ My dream car is one that costs me nothing at all and gets me from point A to B and Back without breaking down. |
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| voxace |
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Yeah, I don't mind updating the guide to include info on different models.
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| EL Grrrr |
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voxace wrote: Yeah, I don't mind updating the guide to include info on different models. Thanks Voxace I loved your manual and will contribute some more info and pics from my EL conversion.
Hopefully I can get all the info on Auto Solenoid resistors and get it working correctly. It would be a good addition to this manual. Also think adding a link to the Diff/Speed calculator would be very helpful. They may let you include that as an attachment... might be able to imbedd it into the pdf doco. Mooseman the pdf file is here and I highly recommend it to anyone thinking of doing this conversion. http://www.fordmods.com/forums/download.php?id=10421
_________________ My dream car is one that costs me nothing at all and gets me from point A to B and Back without breaking down. |
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| EL Grrrr |
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Okay I've managed to get all the bits today and will be doing the loom tomorrow, also changing to LPG dedicated as well which involves more changes to the loom.
So the solenoid wiring is as follows Red (R) which is power Orange/White (OW) Pin 51 ECU Green/Violet (GV) Pin 52 ECU Pink/Yellow (KY) Pin 35 ECU Yellow/Light Green (YX) Pin 55 ECU Pink/Orange (KO) Pin 14 ECU Light Blue (Z) Pin 11 ECU Green (G) Pin 38 ECU Am I right thinking I'll need a 120K resistor between the above wires and Power (R)
_________________ My dream car is one that costs me nothing at all and gets me from point A to B and Back without breaking down. |
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| phongus |
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hey EL Grrrr...did you manage to figure out the 120K ohm resistor trick to stop the fault codes from reading during diagnostics? I am about to do my wiring once the T5 goes in...=D
phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| snap0964 |
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So the solenoid wiring is as follows
Red (R) which is power Orange/White (OW) Pin 51 ECU S1 solenoid Green/Violet (GV) Pin 52 ECU S2 solenoid Pink/Yellow (KY) Pin 35 ECU S3 solenoid Yellow/Light Green (YX) Pin 55 ECU S4 solenoid Pink/Orange (KO) Pin 14 ECU S6 solenoid Light Blue (Z) Pin 11 ECU S7 solenoid Green (G) Pin 38 ECU S5 solenoid All solenoid resistors except S5 go to earth. S5 connects to the red (+12v) line. As I've mentioned, try for error codes first with the solenoids disconnected, because if none are created, you may not need to add any resistors. You can use any size 5w resistor but aim for around 100- 120 ohms so they don't get too hot, the S5 one may need to be less, say around 50 ohms, test using larger ones first. All you're doing is giving the ECU a complete cct when the ECU tests for the solenoids periodically.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| phongus |
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snap0964 wrote: So the solenoid wiring is as follows
Red (R) which is power Orange/White (OW) Pin 51 ECU S1 solenoid Green/Violet (GV) Pin 52 ECU S2 solenoid Pink/Yellow (KY) Pin 35 ECU S3 solenoid Yellow/Light Green (YX) Pin 55 ECU S4 solenoid Pink/Orange (KO) Pin 14 ECU S6 solenoid Light Blue (Z) Pin 11 ECU S7 solenoid Green (G) Pin 38 ECU S5 solenoid All solenoid resistors except S5 go to earth. S5 connects to the red (+12v) line. As I've mentioned, try for error codes first with the solenoids disconnected, because if none are created, you may not need to add any resistors. You can use any size 5w resistor but aim for around 100- 120 ohms so they don't get too hot, the S5 one may need to be less, say around 50 ohms, test using larger ones first. All you're doing is giving the ECU a complete cct when the ECU tests for the solenoids periodically. thank you snap...if i could be bothered doing that under the car I would but nah lol. but i have another question. the T5 also has a neutral switch, where do I connect that to if I can, or does the resistor trick you mentioned above already do that? phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| snap0964 |
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phongus wrote: thank you snap...if i could be bothered doing that under the car I would but nah lol. NP Dude. You did ask though . .  phongus wrote: but i have another question. the T5 also has a neutral switch, where do I connect that to if I can, or does the resistor trick you mentioned above already do that? The 7k resistor takes care of that - as mentioned in other resistor mod threads. So the neutral switch isn't really used, unless you want to make it a starter motor interlock - won't start in gear.
One thing that I've only seen mentioned for manual ECU's is 'lean cruise mode', which is self explanatory - what's never been mentioned is that auto ECU's have this as well. The problem with the resistor mod is that the ECU always sees the trans in neutral, which is fine for idle and deceleration, but the ECU never switches to this mode. I have experimented using the neutral switch to switch resistors to indicate 'neutral' or 'drive' to the ECU, but deceleration was terrible (due to bumped up idle), and being in gear with clutch in bumped up idle to make it terrible to drive also, so I went back to the 'std' resistor mod. The car is very driveable in that setup, and I've found fuel consumption to be better than the auto trans was, so I don't think I'm losing any significant fuel economy whilst cruising without the 'lean cruise mode'. Bit off topic there - hope it isn't too confusing.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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