Couple of things I've learned from when I did my rotors and trailer hubs... (4 in the last month).

If you buy new bearings, don't use the cups that came with the roters, bang them out and replace them with the ones that came with the bearings.
I know lots of people on here will tell you that you don't need to, but recently I had three different brand bearings of the same size, and they all sat in the same cup at varing depths.. the only bearing that sat exactly in the middle was the one that came with the cap. The others both went too far in and had a millimetre or two of bearing roller that wasn't in contact with the cup. I realised at that point that the only real standard was the outside diameter of the cup and the inside diameter of the bearing hole.. the rest appears (angle of rollers and rolling diameter of rollers) to be variable between manufactures.

Secondly, If you don't have a tool to push the slave pistons in, I found my steering wheel remover (cheap at supercrap) was a very nice job of it. I use my wheel removing tool more as a piston pusher than I do as a wheel remover. Take the pointed centring pin off the threaded shaft of the puller and you have a nice flat surface to push on the piston as you wind it in. (the centring pin head should just pull off)

yeah, how would i get the cups out of the rotors? centre punch or something?

Pretty easy really.. I have a big old flat blade screwdriver that I use for jobs like this..

put the roter/hub with the bearing you want out facing down.. put the screwdriver tip against the topmost lip and give it a solid bang with a hammer.. then spin the hub/rotor around 180 degrees and do the same to the opposite lip. 5 or ten hard hits a side and it will fall out.

I've read write up's online about how it takes over an hour to get the cups out... but I've not found one that I couldn't get out in 10 minutes.

One tip someone on here gave me (BenJ or Troyman I think) that saves time.. when you are putting the new cups in.. use the old one by putting it on top of the new one and hit the old one to push the new one in.. saves lots of time.. just don't bang it in too far with the old one as if it goes in too hard you'll have to bang both of them out to get the old one back out. The cups are made from very very hard steel.. it is hard to scratch them.

Last edited by frankieh on Sun May 27, 2012 5:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.

oh ok thanks mate

The cups that come with the discs are made in china it says it on them & they are as useless as a gregory's repair manual ,ps with removing the cups there are 2 cut outs in the casting oposite each other on the inside of the hub for knocking them out .( cheap pads warp discs)

hey guys will teses bearings work from supercheap?
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... escription

figured since they're marine trailer ones they won't but only ford ones they have

Cheers Mitch