Hey guys,

I did a bit of searching first, but gave up finding exactly what i need.

I have an EB GLI manual, and am about to do the EL engine conversion out of my EL auto mont parts car i just picked up. I will be leaving the EB manual.

My questions are, my diff is completly shagged, are the ratios between these diffs different?

If so, can i put the GLI gears in the mont diff?

Can i put the whole mont diff in the EB?

Also my rack is stuffed, can the steer rack out of the EL be fitted into the EB?

Thanks guys

Andrew.

EB2 and onwards used a 28 spline diff, EA and EB1 used a 25 spline diff. if you have a 28 spline diff in your EB, then yes, the centres should swap over.

though i have heard if you want an LSD in your 3.08:1 diff housing it will need machining.

the whole diff can be swapped over, but you need to use the EL control arms, watts linkage (thats a maybe, not sure about that one) and the handbrake cable system is different too.

not too sure about the steering rack

Thanks Nicco,

I think i will drop the whole diff in then, as long as i can keep the same ratio. I have alkl the brakes and handbrake etc for me interior swap, so diff will be suitable.

If anyone knows if the ratio out of the EB can go on the EL centre, or about the rack, feel free to holla at me.

Thanks
Andrew.

yeah no worries mate,

and free bump for the rest of your questions!

Thanks mate.

Also i just looked at build plate and discovered its actually an EF.

Does this make it easier to change the rack into an EBII?

Thanks

Turns out the fairmonts diff is a 3.23 LSD, and the EB is a 3.27, so i can throw the diff staright in as is.

Still wondering about rack though, but from my reaserach, it shoulkd fit with a simple iter yoke change.

Andrew.

For the rack just keep the shaft to the steering column attached and change it as a unit.
To swap the diff complete you will probably need to use the EF upper trailing arms to maintain correct pinion angle.
Adapting the EF/EL rear handbrake cable to the EB front cable is easy and only takes a little thought and two cable clamps. It will do until you do your interior mod and you won't have to swap it around again.
This link is how I fitted an EL XR6 diff to my lowered EB2 and highlights how you can mix in various upper trailing arms to correct the pinion angle if need be.
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/el-xr6-d ... 59213.html
Cheers,
Paul

Thanks heaps Paulmac!!


My ride height is very very low, so my pinion angle is probably real bad.
So from your link, i assume using the standard EF links top and bottom will work? or just top and EB bottom?

Thanks.

Andrew.

PIMP_LTD,
EF upper arms with EF diff etc is only a rule of thumb for for standard heights,
Mate, the best thing to do is the test procedure I mentioned later in that thread.
Support at least the rear of the car on stands, better if on four stands and therefore level and unbolt both the upper arms at the diff.
Place a floor jack under the Watts link and jack upwards, slowly, to rotate the pinion angle forward and down.
Stop when it forms a straight join [in line] with the tailshaft through the uni joint. A very, very slight downward angle is ok, I've found that to be less trouble than even a slight upward pinion angle.
Measure the distance from the centre of the now vacant bolt hole on the diff housing to centre of the front bolt of the upper arm, repeat measurement on the other arm, and now you have the length of the arm you require to maintain a close to perfect diff pinion angle.
I don't have all the lengths of the various E-series arms here, a search may turn them up as there's been a lot of threads on this subject, so I'm not sure if your EF upper arms are shorter than the EB.
You may find a shorter EL upper arm will do the job better, it's 20mm shorter than the EB2s. If not perfect it will certainly be better than it is. There's plenty of good ones at the wreckers. Mine were $70 the pair, very low usage.
You can experiment with other arms, upper and lower once you have the measurement of BOTH, or spend up big on Whiteline adjustable upper arms if you can still get them.
Cheers,
Paul

Thanks heaps Paul,

Your experience is appreciated. I'll take some measurements.

Thanks
Andrew.

Mate,
Sorry, I didn't explain clearly...put your supports under the chassis to remove the bolts. Jack the vehicle up again by the diff and move them to the diff housing when you are doing the measurements. That is, have the rear supports under the axle housing to compress the springs and shocks to simulate normal, on the road, loading.
Cheers,
Paul