|
| the_scotsman |
|
|||
|
I am having a problem with the T5.
I am having trouble getting the bugger in gear sometimes. Mainly when I am stationary and try to put it in first, it is very difficult to go in most of the time. Same with reverse. 1st to 2nd gear has always been a too... Also recently, when driving I am finding the gearbox notchy and it is getting a little bit difficult to change gears sometimes. I changed the fluid to Castrol Transmax-Z not long ago so the fluid isnt the problem. Any ideas anyone? |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| sam12h |
|
|||
|
have you checked the clutch cable adjustment recently? may not be letting go properly.
how old is the clutch itself? if the pressure plate is on the way out it will behave like that.
_________________ Production Editor of Performance Motoring at Express Media Group |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| the_scotsman |
|
|||
|
Hey...Im not too sure how old the clutch plate is, only got the car 12 months ago...
I checked the clutch cable according to the Gregorys...well, the clutch pedal tavel anyway...is that what you mean? I had a feeling it felt like the clutch wasn't properly letting go? |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| voxace |
|
|||
|
Adjust the screws in towards the firewall a bit, see if it helps. Thi will raise the pedal a little.
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| sam12h |
|
|||
|
the cable adjusts with a nut on the firewall, engine bay side, at least it does on my eb 5.0. count the number of turns as you go so you can put it back where it was, but adjust the cable until the t5 slides into 1st with the engine idling. then ensure that the clutch grabs properly before the pedal gets fully released.
if you can't find a compromise position for the cable where the clutch grabs & releases as you throw the pedal, then the clutch pressure plate is probably on the way out. as far as reverse is concerned, once all is adjusted, try this: come to a stop. press clutch. put t5 in 1st then immediatley put t5 in reverse. proceed to reverse vehicle. i reckon you will never crunch reverse again.
_________________ Production Editor of Performance Motoring at Express Media Group |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| the_scotsman |
|
|||
|
Ok thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll give it a try tomorrow...I tried quickly today adjusting the nut, but didnt turn it by much...Ill try properly tomorrow.
Just out of curiosity, how much to get the pressure plate replaced? Is it a do-able home job or easier left to mechanic? |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| XRated |
|
|||
|
sam12h wrote: as far as reverse is concerned, once all is adjusted, try this:
come to a stop. press clutch. put t5 in 1st then immediatley put t5 in reverse. proceed to reverse vehicle. i reckon you will never crunch reverse again. It should have a reverse synchro unless the box is from an EA. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Smackdown |
|
|||
|
Watch for cracking around the clutch cable in the firewall. When I got that welded up and along with a new clutch cable, this fixed exactly the same problem.
I only got around to fixing it when I blew my clutch at the drags.
_________________ BA Falcon Futura on EGas. Stock as...
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| the_scotsman |
|
|||
|
Well I tried it this morning before work. I adjusted the nut, it ndid seem to help a fair bit so I guess you guys have hit the nail on the head.
Only thing is, the biting point is right at the top of the pedal, so I'm guessing the clutch is on its way out... What am I up for roughly to get it replaced? |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Smackdown |
|
|||
|
Depends what clutch you go and what future mods you have in mind.
Anything more than just minor and I recommend the RPM series clutch.
_________________ BA Falcon Futura on EGas. Stock as...
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| voxace |
|
|||
|
I recommend the extreme clutches from http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/
They are so light, and it hasn't slipped on me yet! |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| the_scotsman |
|
|||
|
Ive tried adjusting the clutch cable, but have been unable to get it much better. I cant bring the pedal out much further or the biting point will be at the VERY end of the travel, and thats no good...
I had a look at the gregorys today, the tranny doesnt look that difficult to remove...but Im guessing the clutch is more of a bugger around... How difficult to replace are parts inside the T5? I know for sure my 2nd gear synchro is gone.... Doubt I need anything more than a "standard" clutch as I dont intend doing many high performance mods in the near future... |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Smackdown |
|
|||
|
I thought that my syncro 2nd had gone as well, then I welded up the cracked firewall around the hole for the clutch cable (check it because 90% of T5s have this problem) then replaced the clutch cable. Everything was heaps better, not grinding into gears.
Also, I replaced the clutch a week later cause i'd blown it at the drags 10 days before. So, check around the clutch cable hole in the firewall for cracks.
_________________ BA Falcon Futura on EGas. Stock as...
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| sam12h |
|
|||
|
the_scotsman wrote: I had a look at the gregorys today, the tranny doesnt look that difficult to remove...but Im guessing the clutch is more of a bugger around...
technically no, it's not dificcult. remove tailshaft, remove shifter, disconnect battery then unbolt starter, unbolt bellhousing from engine. Now comes the awkward bit. 36kg might not sound like much, but it's an awkward & heavy bugger to do on your own. i don't reccomend it. (my brother damn near broke his wrist once). IMHO get quotes on having the work done. you may be surprised at the answers you get. they have a team of apprentices standing (not lying) under the car which makes it alot easier. they do so many of them that the removal & re-instalation is no big deal to them. saves you the hassle & potential injury with a possible warranty on the workmanship to boot. just my 2c.
_________________ Production Editor of Performance Motoring at Express Media Group |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| voids |
|
|||
|
sam12h wrote: the_scotsman wrote: I had a look at the gregorys today, the tranny doesnt look that difficult to remove...but Im guessing the clutch is more of a bugger around... technically no, it's not dificcult. remove tailshaft, remove shifter, disconnect battery then unbolt starter, unbolt bellhousing from engine. Now comes the awkward bit. 36kg might not sound like much, but it's an awkward & heavy bugger to do on your own. i don't reccomend it. (my brother damn near broke his wrist once). IMHO get quotes on having the work done. you may be surprised at the answers you get. they have a team of apprentices standing (not lying) under the car which makes it alot easier. they do so many of them that the removal & re-instalation is no big deal to them. saves you the hassle & potential injury with a possible warranty on the workmanship to boot. just my 2c.
_________________ '96 DF II LTD 6cy |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 143 guests |
