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| Scaffy |
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Is it true that you can just bolt the AU diff assembly straight in to the back of an e-series? I would've liked to do that to be rid of the spacers, but then I'd still have to run them on the front anyway and wouldn't be able to use my EL GTs
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| Scaffy |
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Had it all fitted up today and there seems to be a bit of a problem. When the mechanic took it for a spin around the block, there was what he thought was a bearing noise. Comes back into the workshop and we see the left brake caliper appears to be touching the rotor. It looks like the left axle may be out by about 5mm. I left it at the shop and he's going to check it all and pull the pads out to have a closer look tomorrow. I hope this doesn't take too much to sort out. The right side appears to be all good.
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| 67RCE |
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Scaffy wrote: Is it true that you can just bolt the AU diff assembly straight in to the back of an e-series? I would've liked to do that to be rid of the spacers, but then I'd still have to run them on the front anyway and wouldn't be able to use my EL GTs the AU diff is not quite bolt it. The brake lines and handbrake cable need slight modifying.
_________________ ILL60 - EF XR8, Sunroof, Ticky Kit, 19x8.5/19x11 TE37's, 347, AFr185's, TFS BoxRcustom converter, Hurst Quarterstick, huge billet cam. |
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| wholagan |
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Scaffy wrote: Had it all fitted up today and there seems to be a bit of a problem. When the mechanic took it for a spin around the block, there was what he thought was a bearing noise. Comes back into the workshop and we see the left brake caliper appears to be touching the rotor. It looks like the left axle may be out by about 5mm. I left it at the shop and he's going to check it all and pull the pads out to have a closer look tomorrow. I hope this doesn't take too much to sort out. The right side appears to be all good. I had the same problem when i fitted my billet axles.. The left axle needed machining on the spline end to make it shorter by about 5mm... It was touching the pins inside the hemisphere before the wheel bearing was seated in its cup propley, This caused the caliper support bracket to make contact with brake rotor.
_________________ XR6, 3''CAI, sick'o BBM, no AC, 2.5''exhaust, special cat, PWR radiator&expansion-tank, BTR, kevlar bands, JMM converter, shiftkit, 4 pin 3.91:1, 31spline billets, minispool, Nolathane, RDA golds, My interior, genuine GT's.. (gallery) SpeedFlow Last edited by wholagan on Mon May 02, 2011 10:52 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| Scaffy |
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Serious? I was told by the installer that they were seated properly. If they were too long, would they prevent each wheel from turning independantly?
To take the axles out, is it just a matter of undoing the 4 bolts and the axle slides out? Then, is getting it back in just a matter of sliding it in without too much force? I was going to have a go at it when I had it apart the other day but was scared I'd F**k something up.
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| wholagan |
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Take your brake rotor off and inspect the bracket that takes the 4 bolts, which
holds the axle in the housing... If the bracket isent flush against the housing and is slightly bent outwards, i dare say thats telling you the axel is to long, and is hitting the 4 pins which hold your tru track centre in the hemisphere.. The axle cant go in any further because of this, and stops the wheel bearing from seating propley in its cup (also making the rotor slightly touch the caliper bracket)... i wouldnt be suprised either if you had a little oil seal leak too because of this..... Its easy fixed.. Anyway im not saying this is your exact problem.. Its just youve bought the exact same axles, from the exact same place as i did.. and the problem you have sounds the just same as i had.. Good guess is your having the same issuse... There is a heap of spline length on these custom axles, you could shorten them quite a bit.. A simple 4 to 6 mm machined off the end will fix the problem.. I near put my money on it..
_________________ XR6, 3''CAI, sick'o BBM, no AC, 2.5''exhaust, special cat, PWR radiator&expansion-tank, BTR, kevlar bands, JMM converter, shiftkit, 4 pin 3.91:1, 31spline billets, minispool, Nolathane, RDA golds, My interior, genuine GT's.. (gallery) SpeedFlow Last edited by wholagan on Mon May 02, 2011 10:56 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| Scaffy |
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Thanks for that, mate. Yeah, the bracket you are speaking of isn't sitting square with the rotor. I've just been to the trouble of taking another set of brackets and getting them machined to suit. I've been a bit uneasy about doing this as Ive been worried the axle housing is bent or something.
One question though, those 4 bolts which hold the axle in are done up tight and appear to be flush on the bracket. In your case, did they do up properly as well? As I asked before, is removing the axle as simple as undoing those bolts and pulling it straight out? Then replacing it just a matter of pushing it in? Should it move pretty freely or is there a bit of force required? What's required in repairing the oil seal if it's damaged?
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| Dansedgli |
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Scaffy - Did you end up fixing the axle problem?
How do you find the trutrac? Is it smooth or jerky? Much noise? |
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