Hi again,

Yep, I probably have posted this topic before but came stuck on couple of things hence went no further with it until now - it does need to be done.

I want to remove lower and upper control arm, front coil springs as well as shockies.

I have replaced the rotors, hubs and disc brakes on the front couple of months ago and had became stuck on working out how to remove the large bolts that hold the lower control arm in position.

I have a spare set of lower control arms which I have rebushed with blue nolathanes. I have all new lower ball joints pressed in (after market types with grease nipples).

Can anyone tell me what I need to do with the power steering rack, I was told there are three bolts. I can only see two.

As I have auto transmission, I was also told there is a bolt near the radiator that I need to undo to allow free movement of the lines when moving the steering rack away from its position, sufficient enough to remove the large bolts.

Also with the front cross member where the radiator is, I need to loosen the four nuts sufficiently to lower the supporting frame to remove the front bolt holding the lower control arm.

Do I need anything to support this frame or will the four nuts have sufficient strength to hold the cross member?

Is there anything else I need to do. I'm in Brisbane area. Any persons in Brisbane that could assist me on this I would be appreciated. I can afford to pay $100.00 as I'm on a pension

Cheers, Peter

I have done what you are contemplating and as long as you have a couple of jack stands and a good assortment of tools it should be no trouble.
Is there a reason you want to remove the steering rack? there are but 2 nuts holding the rack to the crossmember and you should NOT be able to remove the studs as they should be welded in. You will need to undo the power steering lines from the pump and the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles to remove the rack

You CAN undo the 4 bolts that hold the front crossmember with no trouble and lower it enough to get at the lower control arms bolts, you will need an extra deep 19mm socket to undo them. Just undo them enough to lower the crossmember.

When you replace the arms, remember to have load on the front suspension before you tighten the bolts holding them in. If you do not you will be adding tension that will just chew out the bushes.

Hello PapaSmurf,

Thanks for your assistance on this.

Yes, I do have a couple of jack stands and tools, as well as car ramps to lower the front wheels onto when retensioning to torque specs (whether I'll have enough room underneath the vehicle is something else).

The reason why I asked about the steering rack is due to the large bolt that needs to come out to enable the lower control arm to be removed. Moving the steering rack left to right and vice versa does not provide me with sufficient room to allow the bolt to be removed. I dont want to take the power steering rack off the car completely, just enough so I can get the bolts out.

About the power steering lines from the pump. Do I disconnect these from the power steering rack itself?

Yep, I have a deep 19mm socket. What would be the correct torque settings for lower control arm?

Do I need to remove hub, disc and disconnect brake caliper to do this job ?

Either way, it's a big job...Ill give myself two days to remove and reinstall.

Thanks again, Peter

Peter, I did this and never had to remove the rack, by disconnecting the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle should allow you to get greater travel with the rack?

You shouldn't need to, just have something to keep the stub axle, disc and caliper from dropping and putting too much load on the brake hose.
I wish I lived in Brisbane to come and help you. It always seems a daunting task but it isn't so bad, at least you are not taking off the upper control arms.

Papa Smurf,

Many thanks for your directions.

With those power steering pipes, I disconnect them from the steering rack, is that correct?

Collect any steering fluid and discard and top up with new steering fluid.

Is is advisable to obtain new "O" Rings or seals for those lines, if so, would you know what their part number is by any chance or would Ford know off hand what they would be?

One would be for the high pressure steeing hose that goes directly to the pump. not sure about the other hose though.

Do I need to undo the coupling that connects steering wheel to the steering rack or will I still have enough movement?

I'll probably start working on this towards end of this week or early next week.

I do have upper control arms also rebushed with blue nolathanes just in case they need to be replaced. I can always do them later if need be.

Thanks, Peter

Yes, that is a good idea to undo them there, definitely discard old fluid. Good idea to replace those orings, part number is N 803257 S $3.40ea, you should be able to get them from a Ford dealer.

Yes you do matey, and be gentle.

Papa Smurf,

Thanks for your help on this, much appreciated.

Cheers, Peter

Papa Smurf,

Got a few hiccups, I sent you a pm

Cheers

No worries matey, answered.

PapaSmurf,

I've renewed and replaced front coil springs King Springs Standard with Ultima Shocks ( seem to ride ok - maybe bit hard but it will do). Still notice the squeaking noise as you go over road humps and low depressions on the road and the odd driveway...Bouncing the vehicle up and down by hand does not produce much squeak.

Pedders some time ago said to change lower control arm bush on passengers side...I've got both sides refurbished (blue nolathane bushes).

To remove lower control arm, do I need to remove the shocks ?

Thanks, Peter

Nope, you need just to disconnect the shock from the lower arm and the ABS cable and remove the 2 bolts, you will then need a large screwdriver to lever the front part of the arm out of the front cross-member.

PapaSmurf,

Thanks mate, I apperciate your help on this.

Cheers, Peter