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| frankieh |
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Hi all,
6 months ago, I replaced a chewed out sloppy drivers side tie rod with a known good spare I had here. It had no slop and was nice and firm. 6 months of driving later and its sloppy as well...... just the drivers side.. passengers side is fine. I know my lovells superlows will add wear to them due to them being on much greater angles to factory (which sits almost flat)... I just wasn't expecting it to be this bad.... lots of people have lower cars than mine and I've not heard much from anyone else about it... Is there anything else that would cause premature wear of the drivers side tie rod? there is no slop at all in any other steering/suspension components (except for the steering shaft uni joint which I'm replacing and isn't relevant anyway as it's on the other side of the steering box) any thoughts folks? ta Frank |
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| frankieh |
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I have another rod to put in when I can.. (waiting till I can get another wheel alignment) is there anything I can do to lesson the wear on these things?
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| Papa Smurf |
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frankieh wrote: I have another rod to put in when I can.. (waiting till I can get another wheel alignment) is there anything I can do to lesson the wear on these things? Have you checked that the Ball joints are ok and the Upper/Lower inner control arm bushes? Is there any sloppiness in the Tie Rod themselves? Maybe the bush in the end of the Tie Rod. |
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| frankieh |
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Yeah... tie rods are both new... there is no slop or wear anywhere else in the system.. bushes are all good... ball joints are likewise... I checked them all when changing the tie rod ends..
The slop is in the flexable ball joint where the tie rod joins to the rack... it was fine 6 months ago when I put it in.. now it has slop... and the one before it had slop too.. thats why I am wondering what could be causing them to die so quickly.. (each time I have to swap it it costs me a new wheel alignment so hoping to slow the process down) ta Frank |
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| cjh |
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Are we talkin about " Rack ends ", or "Tie rod ends "??????
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| frankieh |
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Talking about tie rods.. (not tie rod ends)... I guess what you are calling rack ends.....
rod ends are both new and no problems there.. at the point where the tie rods connect to the racks is a ball socket so the tie rod can change angles... mine keep bagging out on the drivers side... |
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| cjh |
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Up here we call them rack ends.........is the rack boot fitted????...silly question, but has to be asked......seen heaps driving around with little or none on there.
What brand are you using????? How are the balljoints????.....wheel bearing adjustment????...tyre pressures????.... How are the caster bushes/strut bar bushes/brake reaction rod bushes?????.....covering all the names there......  ......Is the stub axle assembly bent????
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| frankieh |
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When the car was off the ground.. the only free movement was from the rack end.. everything else was smooth and snug... all the rubber bushes I've checked seem good.. none are split and the inner diameter is more or less round and not significantly bigger than the shaft it fits around...
wheelbearings are now 1month old.. new disks with it... stub axels seem fine... had a wheel alignment about 6 months ago, and will have another when I replace this rack end and install the kmac adjustable camber kit... The rack end that was bagged out when I got it was genuine ford.. it's replacement which is now also bagged was repco.... Oh, and yes, it has a nice non damaged rubber boot on it that has nice tight clips holding it on... it's a puzzler this one... |
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| cjh |
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When you check the balljoints, do you jack it up as close to the wheel as possible, till the tyre is about 2" off the ground, then put a pipe/crow bar under the tyre and lift it up and down to see how the joint is, then move the bar sideways while holding it up and check the joint for movement.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| frankieh |
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kind of... I had the car on stands... because it has superlows there some easy movement in the wheels up and down with the wheels off the ground hanging.. so you can move it up and down to see if it's smooth and tight.. it was on both sides...
Out of curiosity.. wouldn't the ball joints have to be totally naffed for them to make a difference to a rack end? |
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| cjh |
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frankieh wrote: kind of... I had the car on stands... because it has superlows there some easy movement in the wheels up and down with the wheels off the ground hanging.. so you can move it up and down to see if it's smooth and tight.. it was on both sides... Out of curiosity.. wouldn't the ball joints have to be totally naffed for them to make a difference to a rack end? Just do what I suggested, that is how it's done for doing RWC's. It finds the wear in the joints, as in, the bottom ones, the ones that cop the hits...the upper ones just hold the wheel upright, and for steering.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| frankieh |
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ok... I'll give it a shot.. but you should also know that this car had a full roadworthy 6 months ago as it was built from a repairable writoff and registered from scratch... it got the full inspection.
having said that, I've just seen how little ball joints are worth on ebay.. and for 70 bucks I could replace all of them. (I already have a ball joint remover)... might be worth just replacing them anyway... |
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| cjh |
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Mate, there are RWC's, and there are RWC's. I used to do them. And I saw vehicles that had had them and they really weren't roadworthy.
I was sacked from one place for not doing rewrites on vehicles that I didn't inspect in the first place......and now about 5 yrs later, it seems Karma is happening.....( not from me )....... 
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| MadMatt |
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frankieh wrote: ok... I'll give it a shot.. but you should also know that this car had a full roadworthy 6 months ago as it was built from a repairable writoff and registered from scratch... it got the full inspection. having said that, I've just seen how little ball joints are worth on ebay.. and for 70 bucks I could replace all of them. (I already have a ball joint remover)... might be worth just replacing them anyway... The ball joints are press fitted into the uprights. I bought the last set of ball joints that I fitted from pedders (trade price) and they pressed then in to the loose uprights I supplied at no extra charge. Cheap ball joints will not last long....
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| frankieh |
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I have a spare front xmember with everything attached in my shed that I pulled off a ghia at a mates wrecking yard.... I'll pull the arms off it and take them and the ball joints in and get them installed... be annoying if I do all this and it turns out it isn't the problem, but I've replaced nearly everything else on front of this car so I suppose it would be a good idea to do these too.
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