are you just trying to trick the sensor? are you sure that its the temp sensor thats going spastic? A good test would be to stick that 2.7 kOhm resistor on.. and see if it does it still... if thats what you did, and you still go into LHM (limp home mode), then its another sensor, cos obviously, its not reading the temp sensor.



Cheers

EDIT - when you stick that resistor on, do you disconnect the sensor?
also, are you sure that you got the values right?

The other thing to consider (if it is indeed a temp issue with the tranny) is to fit fans and/or water spray setup for the trans coolers to help with cooling when there's no forward motion.

Water spray could be as simple as running small vinyl hoses from up near the windscreen washer tank down to mist nozzles at the coolers and either plumb in a permanent switching valve (can get suitable things from fishtank places) or manually swap over the hoses at race time so that the washer system will supply water to the coolers - maybe rig an on off switch in parallel to the normal washer control to save having to hold the washer control on. ONLY use water tho - don't be tempted to use metho or something like that (BURN, baby, BURN!!). You could fill the tank with cold water and some ice immediately before each run if necessary.

either that or find a big refridgerated warehouse and race ya car in there

Yeah i still reckon a Thermofan on each cooler would work well.

That'd be good for HP.

An aircon'ed dyno

it can't be a temp sensor issue if he put a resistor on there lol! But if he wired it in parralel.. well, um.. then yeah.... remember that current take the LEAST resisting track.. so just wiring a resistor in parallel, wouldn't achieve much at all.

I would suggest, going over the wiring if it is a temperature issue...

ofcourse this cant be good for the gearbox.



Cheers

*EDIT* I was ofcourse assuming that a sensor decreases in resistance as heat goes up... I can't remember, but now come to think of it, it'll be the other way around... hmmm, sleep sounds good atm.

Depends

thermofans may help to a extent, but you should see the lack of space there is

I'd also be willing to bet that with the heat build up, no matter how many coolers you have, some parts will act like heat pockets...

My suggestion would be to figure out exactly what the sensor is telling the ECU (a voltage, change of resistance most probably) and just for the track, build a circuit that will fool the ECU into thinking everything is norm. Then switch it back for normal driving

Im assuming the EEC is still there running the tranny with the EMS, you may be able to get onto chip torque or someone just to chip the EEC into ignoring tranny signals. I know that chip can alter shift points, it may just also be able to dumb the thing down somewhat

C4 would be the way to go but...a couple from ford forums are goin down this path at the moment

Sorry Voxace - I'd missed where you already suggested thermofans for the coolers.

yes thats what i did.
i cut the wires above the tran wire connector ie near map sensor.
what i did last light is cut the resistor out and have run it through the firewall under dash.
see if underbonnet temps are affecting resistance.

was really after a 10.0 k ohm resistor to say the temp is even lower but
jaycar didnt have or make any that high.

yes its a good idea, i used to run a washer bottle for the intercooler, but track staff dont aprove of dropping water on the start line.

fans would be ok, but it gets hot so quick i dont think it would matter.
i will look into it this week and see if i can get 2 nd hand units off a bike.

If a 10.0 K ohm resistor is what you're after, then just put a couple in series... ie if they sell 5K ohm, then put two in series.... resitance adds in series, and the recipricol of each resistor is added when in parralel... So just even get 4 x 2.7K ohm ones, and stick them in series... Im sure a 2.7K ohm one is fine, cos thats what Im running without an auto lol.... and the ECU hasn't whinged yet. Im sure if it say 2.7 K ohm, it wouldn't go into Limp Home Mode.

failing the above, all that a transmission needs to get out of LHM, is to just be rebooted? you can always have a switch, which cuts of the transmission momentarily, without having to restart your car. just a though.

Cheers

ahh hah, well that sounds good to me.
i bought 2 resistors so i will wack the pair in now.
ive also moved them to under the dash incase underbonnet temps have any thing to do with it.

bought 2x 8.5diameter elec termo fans today, will fit them up before this saturdays drag meet.

try again........

thanks buddy

michael

[quote="justfordima:]
failing the above, all that a transmission needs to get out of LHM, is to just be rebooted? you can always have a switch, which cuts of the transmission momentarily, without having to restart your car. just a though.

Cheers[/quote]

That's a damn good idea for EA I6 or V8 models with TCM... i think you'll find you need to cut power to the trans controller as opposed to the transmission itself. I doubt the EB-AU would appreciate having power momentarily cut from EEC...

pffft EEC, who needs it lol.But yeah, it would work with seperate transmission controllers.

Good luck with it all micheal.


Cheers

yes it has finaly been fixed, with the two 8.5 inch thermo fans the trans worked like a treat all day yesterday at the sydney compact attack drag meet.
disapointment of the day was the scrutineers finaly looking to see i have no tailshaft loop which is required for running slicks.
so i had to either go home and fit one or just run my 195 nankang $85 tyres.
i went with the nankangs as the goal for the day was to test out the auto.

tyres performed bloody amazing, 60fts of 1.990 to 2.099 were alittle slower.
found with these tyres a stall at the lights of 1500rpm was best for traction.

qaulify passes;
11.980 @ 117.36 mph
11.941 @ 116.83
11.894 @ 116.55
12.019 @ 116.14 stalled to 2000rpm and got wheel spin
11.967 @ 115.95
btw all wins

elimination;
11.962 @ 101.10 mph had to give other car 4sec start, caught him before the finish so i slowed as to not ''break out''.

11.870 @ 116.11 bye run for no1 qaulifier

12.274 @ 92.88 mph other car got 1.6 sec head start, ran him down 100m from finished and slowed to not 'break out''

11.794 @ 111.69 got beat by a better driver by .0179 and i also broke out by running faster than my 11.85 dial in, and i slowed at end as i was in front of him too, just not enough though.
this race would have seen me in the final...........

all in all it was a good day with a new pb of 11.794 and the auto not missing a beat.

thanks to all who gave ideas for fixing/ mods to the auto.

michael

btw i was the only falcon there and the only other ford was a tx3.