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| twr7cx |
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I've undone the nut, and it's not droping down. I've even given it some encouraging taps on the stud. I didn't want to hit it to hard but. Is there something I'm missing?
Last edited by twr7cx on Wed Nov 15, 2006 4:59 pm, edited 2 times in total. |
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| arm79 |
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Take off the caliper and hit the stud harder.
They are partially press fit and probably in pretty tight. |
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| stockstandard |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Is there something I'm missing?
A puller? You back the nut off (dont remove it) and use a 2 jaw puller to press it out. It can take a lot of effort and come out with lots of force so keep your hands clear and dont remove the nut until its free.
_________________ Stoke me a clipper, I'll be back for Christmas |
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| twr7cx |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Take off the caliper and hit the stud harder.
They are partially press fit and probably in pretty tight. So whats the deal with refitting the new one? Have to have it pressed in? |
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| twr7cx |
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And what about the ball joints? same deal to encourage them to go out by hitting the studs?
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| arm79 |
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A puller...
Never had to use one of those to seperate the tie rod from the spindle. A couple of hits is generally enough to get the thing out. The only time I experienced a really tight one, I hit the thing harder.
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| arm79 |
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mmm.. I think we might be on different pages.
I was referring to tie rod ends when saying take the caliper off and hit the stud. Upper ball joint I generally hit the upper arm upwards and most times that shakes the thing loose. For the bottom ball joint, I get the upper joint off (or undo the upper arm from the body) tilt the spindle away from the car, then start hitting the lower arm upwards from the bottom. A couple of hits generally separates the 2. |
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| stockstandard |
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First one I did wouldnt budge, so I followed the manual and used a 2 jaw puller. Even then it tool a crap load of effort before it moved. Used the puller ever since and never had a problem.
_________________ Stoke me a clipper, I'll be back for Christmas |
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| arm79 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Take off the caliper and hit the stud harder. They are partially press fit and probably in pretty tight. So whats the deal with refitting the new one? Have to have it pressed in? To put back in, put the tie rod end stud into the spindle. Tap the bottom with a hammer and this will push it up into the spindle. The use the nut to tighten/pull the thing up the rest of the way. |
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| twr7cx |
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Righty o, tie rod end is being a total f**k wit and isn't budging. I looked in the book and it does mention puller, but I'm just gunna hit is harder!
Upper ball joints just seperated with a crow bar! 
Lowers I havn't tried yet. I've got the shockies all loose and hanging there, but just not enough to come out - I assume the control arm lower will go down further once tie rod end not joined. In case you can't tell I'm busy redoing all the suspension, bushes, ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks and springs. |
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| arm79 |
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Sorry man... Didn't notice you were doing your front suspension... Silly me...
The lower arm wont fall far with the sway bar attached. Undo the link bolts and it will move down about 10cm more. 95% of the time this is enough to get the strut out. If you want it out of the way completely, you will have to remove the k-frame bolt and the radius rod bolt, and this till get it out of the way competely. |
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| twr7cx |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Sorry man... Didn't notice you were doing your front suspension... Silly me...
The lower arm wont fall far with the sway bar attached. Undo the link bolts and it will move down about 10cm more. 95% of the time this is enough to get the strut out. If you want it out of the way completely, you will have to remove the k-frame bolt and the radius rod bolt, and this till get it out of the way competely. Smart a**. Already undone the link nuts top and bottom, but havn't actually lifted the swaybar from it yet. shall do so. i think i need to undo that radius rod bolt anyways to replace the bush. |
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| arm79 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Sorry man... Didn't notice you were doing your front suspension... Silly me... The lower arm wont fall far with the sway bar attached. Undo the link bolts and it will move down about 10cm more. 95% of the time this is enough to get the strut out. If you want it out of the way completely, you will have to remove the k-frame bolt and the radius rod bolt, and this till get it out of the way competely. Smart a**. Already undone the link nuts top and bottom, but havn't actually lifted the swaybar from it yet. shall do so. i think i need to undo that radius rod bolt anyways to replace the bush. Ta!
You dont need to remove the swaybar, just undo the link from the bar to get the lower arm as low as possible. To do the radius rod, you will have to remove the k-frame end bolt first, drop the arm there, and then slide the arm towards the back of the car. |
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| twr7cx |
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How do I undo this front thing (can see it in photo below the blue bottom radiator hose)? Nowere near enough room to get a socket there.
Undo the bolt next to it to lower the front of the frame? Will i need to suport the engine or anything to do this? 
{DESCRIPTION} |
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| Steady ED |
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radius rod to K frame?
Get a ring spanner would be my advice 
Plenty of room!
_________________ ED XR8 Sprint - S-Trim, V500, 249rwkw |
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