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| elmeup |
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hey so i need to replace my gearbox and my clutch in my el xr6 i was just wondering if anyone thinks it would be woth converting it to a hydraulic clutch set up. i know it will cost mor money but i think it will just be nicer to drive. is this worth the mucking around seeing i only have basic mods to the engine or should i just leave it standard??
any advice would be good thanks |
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| Gab1 |
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I'd leave it standard Sam, for a Hydraulic clutch to work properly, you'd need a modified pedal (an XD/XE V8 one MAY work, but a BA/BF one certainly wont) and you'll also need to manufacture a mount for a clutch master cylinder eithier by making a totally custom mount, or doing something like welding in a section of firewall from a car that has a hydraulic clutch (you CANT fit a hydraullic clutch without cutting your car to bits) and you'll also need a modified clutch fork, a slave cylinder, and a custom made hydraullic line. You could probably use a clutch fork from a V8 XD/XE turned around the other way. I think a BA/BF Master would be the best bet. But seriously, a nicely done, well set up clutch with a cable will give you many years of pleasureable driving.
Gab |
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| ToranaGuy |
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In a 6cyl falcon it wouldn't be "too hard" to do. I'd be looking at modifying a peddle box and fitting a clutch master right to the peddle box, then just need a resivor in the engine bay, and to run a hydraulic line to the clutch fork area. No body mods then.
For the fork, there's a few ways to do it. Might be able to use a BA T5 clutch slave cylinder, or modify the factory fork & use an external cylinder, sort of like the Kingswood/Torana conversion that was so common years ago. Yes, I've been thinking about this for a while, in the back of my head. I reckon a Toyota hilux clutch slave could be made to work with a nice fabricated bracket to hold it to the side of your gearbox.  Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Send him a pm .
http://www.boostedfalcon.net/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=25470
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| GeZza200 |
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Malwood do a kit
http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/whatsnew.htm
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
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| cjh |
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A cable operated clutch has " feel ".....the hydraulic operated clutches don't have the same " feel ".....the same goes for motorbikes.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| GeZza200 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: A cable operated clutch has " feel ".....the hydraulic operated clutches don't have the same " feel ".....the same goes for motorbikes. True, I hate not feeling exactly what the clutch is doing in a hydraulic clutch car.
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
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| elmeup |
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Yeah I remember driving a ba xr6 and the clutch was way too light. I guess wat I want to know is is it worth doing?
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| cjh |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Yeah I remember driving a ba xr6 and the clutch was way too light. I guess wat I want to know is is it worth doing? Not really, for the time, trouble and outlay of $$$$ to achieve......what?...a clutch that still works, and has no " feel ".....just my 2 cents.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| krisisdog |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I'd leave it standard Sam, for a Hydraulic clutch to work properly, you'd need a modified pedal (an XD/XE V8 one MAY work, but a BA/BF one certainly wont) and you'll also need to manufacture a mount for a clutch master cylinder eithier by making a totally custom mount, or doing something like welding in a section of firewall from a car that has a hydraulic clutch (you CANT fit a hydraullic clutch without cutting your car to bits) and you'll also need a modified clutch fork, a slave cylinder, and a custom made hydraullic line. You could probably use a clutch fork from a V8 XD/XE turned around the other way. I think a BA/BF Master would be the best bet. But seriously, a nicely done, well set up clutch with a cable will give you many years of pleasureable driving. Gab Ning. You don't need to cut up your car lol. Drill a hole or two yes, cut no. Poor response/0 Clutch cables bend pedal boxes, bend firewalls, cables snap, and are f**k in general. |
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| cjh |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Ning. You don't need to cut up your car lol. Drill a hole or two yes, cut no. Poor response/0 Clutch cables bend pedal boxes, bend firewalls, cables snap, and are f**k in general. I have never had a pedal box fail, or the firewall crack, in either the ol' EA, or the ED. Neither of them were strengthened, and were running PBR RPM clutches too. I have had the cables fail, and the fork insulator hooks fail, however.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| Gab1 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Ning. You don't need to cut up your car lol. Drill a hole or two yes, cut no. Poor response/0 Clutch cables bend pedal boxes, bend firewalls, cables snap, and are f**k in general. I have never had a pedal box fail, or the firewall crack, in either the ol' EA, or the ED. Neither of them were strengthened, and were running PBR RPM clutches too. I have had the cables fail, and the fork insulator hooks fail, however. I've had those fork insulator hooks fail too, So I invented a fix for that, my clutch cable is held in by a washer with a slot in it that's too big to fit through the hole, it cant come out Gab |
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| cjh |
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I forgot to mention, that I fitted a wide band heater hose clamp around the plastic guide that the other insulator rubber lives in.....stops the rubber squashing so much and losing cable/pedal travel.
I have also rerouted the cable so as to have no sharp bends, makes for a smoother operation, to give better " feel " as well. I also added a return spring on the clutch fork so the throw-out bearing isn't in constant contact with the clutch fingers, and I fitted a pedal stop at the pedal box as well.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| krisisdog |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Ning. You don't need to cut up your car lol. Drill a hole or two yes, cut no. Poor response/0 Clutch cables bend pedal boxes, bend firewalls, cables snap, and are f**k in general. I have never had a pedal box fail, or the firewall crack, in either the ol' EA, or the ED. Neither of them were strengthened, and were running PBR RPM clutches too. I have had the cables fail, and the fork insulator hooks fail, however. EF EL are notorious for breaking the firewall. There's thousands who have bent a pedal box, there weak as piss. PBR RPM clutch? So XR6 spec? Try running a decent clutch with a cable - watch the cables snap, pedal boxes bend, clips and insulators snap. All round AIDs. |
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| cjh |
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{USERNAME} wrote: EF EL are notorious for breaking the firewall. There's thousands who have bent a pedal box, there weak as piss. PBR RPM clutch? So XR6 spec? Try running a decent clutch with a cable - watch the cables snap, pedal boxes bend, clips and insulators snap. All round AIDs. A decent clutch shouldn't be so heavy as to give you a left leg like Arnny. The clutch I had in my old Val was so heavy, that at the lights, I would shift it to neutral, because my left leg would start shaking after about 15 secs. The clutch I run in the Falcon is slightly more heavier than a standard one, but it doesn't slip....with 220 rwhp and towing a car trailer with a car on it, changing at 4,000 rpm, no slip....and it's just an organic compound friction plate too.........Horses for courses, though.
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