|
| phongus |
|
|||
|
Hello everyone
Took my car to a suspension specialist to fix my front end due to the front left sagging more than the right. Anyways he mentioned my intermediate shaft is really loose at the uni joint and said that it would be best to replace it. He did not offer to do it for me, but has said that I can go to a wreckers and find a replacement which will most likely be in better condition than mine (must be pretty damn bad). So I was wondering if there are alternative parts to replacing the intermediate shaft other than from an E-series. My thinking is, if an AU shaft fits, it would most likely be in better condition being a newer car. If not, I will just have to go and find one from Pick-a-part or something. Is it also possible to fix the shaft in any way, or would that require a specialist to cut and weld the uni joint? Cheers
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| snap0964 |
|
|||
|
I have fitted a uni joint to another intermediate shaft using a second hand donor, only because the donor was different to the one I was repairing and I didn't want to shell out for another shaft as I had all the required parts - bit of work though. And be aware EF run a fine spline, and EL a a*** spline rack fitting end. EL shafts are shorter too.
For you, It'd be simplest to find an EL or XH shaft - I doubt AU's or later will be the same. Also before you do that, get a torch and a mirror, rock the intermediate shaft and check if the whole uni assy moves in relation to the shaft - the play is most likely in that big pin. Tap off the heatshield with a screwdriver or a drift and check that big pin for play (most likely the problem) - a small weld run will fix that.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| phongus |
|
|||
|
snap0964 wrote: I have fitted a uni joint to another intermediate shaft using a second hand donor, only because the donor was different to the one I was repairing and I didn't want to shell out for another shaft as I had all the required parts - bit of work though. And be aware EF run a fine spline, and EL a a*** spline rack fitting end. EL shafts are shorter too. For you, It'd be simplest to find an EL or XH shaft - I doubt AU's or later will be the same. Also before you do that, get a torch and a mirror, rock the intermediate shaft and check if the whole uni assy moves in relation to the shaft - the play is most likely in that big pin. Tap off the heatshield with a screwdriver or a drift and check that big pin for play (most likely the problem) - a small weld run will fix that. Thank you snap. When I get the chance I will have a look where the play is at. Was thinking of finding an EL one from self serve wreckers, it would be a straight swap. I am no good with welding, but if it's not a big weld, I will see if I can get it fixed at no cost! (tight a***, I know, but it runs in my blood!)
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| snap0964 |
|
|||
|
Well, that's what I'm pointing at if the problem is that - 5 min welding job. I'm sure Steve, John, Adrian & co would have a welder.
While the intermediate shaft is out, check the play in the unijoint at the firewall - steering lock is a quarter turn to the left without the key IIRC. It's pretty rare, but check in case.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| phongus |
|
|||
|
snap0964 wrote: Well, that's what I'm pointing at if the problem is that - 5 min welding job. I'm sure Steve, John, Adrian & co would have a welder. While the intermediate shaft is out, check the play in the unijoint at the firewall - steering lock is a quarter turn to the left without the key IIRC. It's pretty rare, but check in case. I will have a look. Got the car back yesterday and it drives much better. Steering still the same, but car drives straight now! I have a welder as well and they have a mig welder at work I can use, so not too worried about having a welder, more so my welding skills which sucks a***. Steering still locks without key. Thank you for your help as usual snap!
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| snap0964 |
|
|||
|
NP.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| mitchell g |
|
||
|
Just make sure it doesn't snap like my rack input sharft did lol
|
||
| Top | |
||
| SWC |
|
||
|
phongus wrote: snap0964 wrote: Well, that's what I'm pointing at if the problem is that - 5 min welding job. I'm sure Steve, John, Adrian & co would have a welder. While the intermediate shaft is out, check the play in the unijoint at the firewall - steering lock is a quarter turn to the left without the key IIRC. It's pretty rare, but check in case. I will have a look. Got the car back yesterday and it drives much better. Steering still the same, but car drives straight now! I have a welder as well and they have a mig welder at work I can use, so not too worried about having a welder, more so my welding skills which sucks a***. Steering still locks without key. Thank you for your help as usual snap! If it is the pin (usually is in most that I have seen) and you are going to weld it, make sure that you have the uni joint wraped in a wet cloth or in water if you can. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 60 guests |
