hey guys, looking at lowering my BA, i've heard a few stories about needing shortened shocks and camber kits if i was to run SL at the front and Ultralow in the rear, but a mate who has this combination has just told me that the BA shocks are fine with the lowered springs, and that they have floating wishbones so the camber is automatically corrected so i dont need a camber kit?

Any advice?

I lowered my BF Falcon SR with Peddars Low Springs, then changed the shocks to Monroe GT Sport for all 4 corners later on just to stiffen the ride and provide better handling. I do have camber issues with the rear mainly. I have also read about the rear being camber adjustable but the place i got the work done at said there is no where for it to be done, so when i get new tyres i will be putting in a rear camber for about $350 installed and just doing a rotation every 5 or so thousand kms, there are pics about half way down this page of how it sits - ford-bodykits-f15/show-us-ur-modded-au-ba-bf-t38893-380.html

mine is lowered 2inch front and rear and my mechanics adjusts the rear camber when I get it serviced so the rear is adjustable. I need a camber kit for the front tho

Rear camber is adjustable on XR and FPV vehicles, non XR/FPV don't have a factory camber kit

well mine has adjustable rear camber and i have an XT.

Ask your mechanic how he does it? Perhaps he is charging you for something he isnt actually doing? you can adjust the toe to compensate for negative camber but only to some extent, obviously a camber kit is the preferred option

yea that is what he does, i remember him saying something like that. thanks.

Old Post but, we just went through this with a BA xt just the other day & this beast didn't have any camber adjustment in the rear...,, That was until we attacked it with the die grinder. If you are careful & neat (use vernier calipers )you can turn the standard holes into elongated slots & then you can get heaps of positive camber in the rear. This BA sits so low & runs 255's on the rear & it was scrubbing the insides of the tires like there was no tomorrow.
There is heaps of metal to work with so unless you are a total "Geoff"-(wanker) you are never going to make it dangerous.
I had to roll the rear guards because after I gave it some positive camber the tires started rubbing on the guards inner lip.
Not too hard to do if your careful. I used a paint heater & a guard roller I made years ago from a VW Beetle Jack, IMO it still works as good as any of the paid for roll jobs.

here is a link to the Guard roller specs & plans if you want to make one yourself. They are exactly the same plans I used 10 years ago, & it is still going strong
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