Hi there,

First post, it's my late Father's car, just a standard BA MKII Ute.

I'm giving it love it was long denied, lots of maintenance which it is overdue.
Trying to keep it budget conscious, but I can see it's very tempting to get carried away.

I'm not a mechanical newbie, just learning the ins and outs of this car.

It was up for 4 new tyres for rego, so I opted for 4 19" alloys with 80% tyres which I got for $500.

Anyway, I need to do the RHS rear axle oil seal and while I've been researching the job and looking at the car, I noticed that there's three 10mm blocks below the suspension leaves on the rear.

I've done quite a bit of reading, as many have stated lowering blocks can interfere with the lower shock mount.

Now before I go an undo the u-bolts and see if I can move two of the blocks above the leaves - I know this sounds too simple to be possible...am I completely off target?

I know you can get the suspension leaves reset lower, but I am really attempting to keep this in check $$ wise, because although the car has sentimental value, it's not worth lots of $$ being spent on it.

Just a little bit lower and would look a little bit better as the back rides very high without any weight in it.

peace out

Glenn

if it's what i think it's not what you think it is put up a pic of said item just to make sure it's what i think. is it a 1 tonne ute?


Cheers


Ps. if it looks like the springs in the pic......


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Yep - it is, I think a 1 tonne ute and from the pic you've posted, which is very instructional BTW, so thank you

It looks as though the three 'spacers' are an integral part of the leaf springs themselves, so I'd say you've saved me undoing the u-bolts unnecessarily



EDIT - I just found this post, now I am truly confused, only difference is that mine has three spacers at the bottom, same as in the picture which you posted

gearbox-suspension-brake-driveline-f4/lowering-au-ute-t95653.html?hilit=leaf%20spring&start=15

ok. did you read the whole thing? as i have no idea re what was suggested in the last reply on page 2.

[for me] to lower the rear of a leaf spring vehicle you either reset the springs 'lower' [or fit 'standard' springs that have had a hard life] OR fit lowering blocks [have done the blocks on an older car]. in general when fitting lowering blocks you must use the same size either side of the car so there will be no handling problems [but depends on thickness etc]. these blocks are fitted between the axle pad & the spring [sorry no pics] base [where they both mate up]. there is a limit to how tall the block can be as the 'taller' the block is the more 'twist' the diff applies to the lowering block/axle mount/spring [too much can/does damage to the spring diff & tailshaft]. the least twisting is better. utbe should have some vids on doing this plus explain it betterer

all of what i mentioned is just general info not gospel so any fitting/modding of car height is YOUR responsibility to make sure of what you are doing, not mine..


and yes! ... the 3 pieces are integral as far as i know.

Yes, I did read the whole thread, and from a lot of other reading also. my understanding is;

The proper way to lower the back end a significant amount is to get either the current springs reset - prices quoted seem to vary wildly; or

Get already lower riding springs which come is 3 or 4 different lowering amounts like low, superlow, ultralow & bellydragging or some such; or

As someone else has posted in another thread that I have read they actually remove one or two of the short lower springs and flip them to get a lower ride

All of the above obviously keep the springs strapped as close as possible to the axle & diff reducing twisting and potentially axle tramp - although I'm still grappling with what axle tramp actually is, I know it stops you going forwards

Put some lowering blocks, which may or may not be illegal but now you've got essentially room to move and a less solid connection between the spring pack and the diff with reasonably big potential downsides.

I've seen a few other images of leaf spring packs which don't have those three spacers which was why I wondered if moving, one, two or possibly all three of the from the bottom to the top of the spring set would be the possible equivalent of lowering blocks.

If I can manage to shift the bolts at the bushing ends I'll see if I can lift one side out and undo the central bolt and move them, keeping that same total pack height will allow me to keep the same u-bolts also



This is for me part of a distraction while I waited for parts to FIX the car to pass registration, actually to be honest I've been looking for way to improve the car bit by bit since I decided to keep it.

Sensible option would be I believe some XR6 or XR8 springs out of a car that's being parted out, so I'll keep my eyes peeled
It could also use new rear shocks and front shocks and in the process - a new front bumper because Dad just left the lower portion in some carpark many years ago, didn't even realise it until I said where's the rest of it, the list is growing...

That sentimental value could very easily end up with a car which has more $$ in parts added to it than the original value of the car