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5h4dy |
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Hi everybody
I have an EF Fairmont which is lowered. I also have an EF Falcon, which is not. Can I just swap the shocks from the Fairmont into the Falcon to lower it, or do I have to worry about camber bolts and things? |
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SWC |
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Is it on Lows or superlows?
All parts are interchangeable with Fairmont and Falcon. |
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5h4dy |
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SWC |
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Looks like lows in the pic.
You should be able to change everything over with no issues. Factory camber kit should be able to handle the adjustments needed in the wheel alignment. |
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5h4dy |
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Sweet, cheers. So just the shocks that need to be swapped then?
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Mad2 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Sweet, cheers. So just the shocks that need to be swapped then? and springs |
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5h4dy |
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Yes, which will be attached to the shocks
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5h4dy |
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Ok, so it does seem an easy job - however, I notice that with both vehicles on stands and the rear shocks / springs removed, there is more of a space between the upper and lower spring locations on the car that wasn't lowered, than there is on the car that was.
Now I assume this would be due to one sitting on stiffer springs all these years, but my question is do I have to loosen off a control arm somewhere with the car raised, and then tighten it once it's off the stands, or do I just leave it alone and let it self adjust as it sits on the new springs? |
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5h4dy |
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Also, when it comes to the fronts, there appear to be a whole stack of shims between the body of the car and the upper control arm - I assume these are camber things and that I will need to swap them into the other car?
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SWC |
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Fit the same shims that came from the doner car, this should give you an approx alignment, then get a proper wheel alignment done ASAP.
You will be suprised how quickly you will chop out tyres with a bad alignment. |
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5h4dy |
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Is it normal that there would be so many shims, especially on just lows? The car at standard height has no shims, and the lowered one has about 6 per bolt on each side, so it's spaced out about 12mm - that's what concerns me, it seems excessive
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SWC |
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And when you use Superlows there usually is not enough bolt length to add the required shims to get it right which is why you need a camber kit.
All cars (same model) vary slightly from each other which is why there are different thickness shims. You WILL still need a wheel alignment after you do the springs. |
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SWC |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Ok, so it does seem an easy job - however, I notice that with both vehicles on stands and the rear shocks / springs removed, there is more of a space between the upper and lower spring locations on the car that wasn't lowered, than there is on the car that was. Now I assume this would be due to one sitting on stiffer springs all these years, but my question is do I have to loosen off a control arm somewhere with the car raised, and then tighten it once it's off the stands, or do I just leave it alone and let it self adjust as it sits on the new springs? Don't worry about it. They will settle after a short drive. |
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5h4dy |
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Thanks mate, I'll take her in for an alignment when I get a day off work
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5h4dy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Fit the same shims that came from the doner car, this should give you an approx alignment, then get a proper wheel alignment done ASAP. You will be suprised how quickly you will chop out tyres with a bad alignment. I didn't end up putting any shims in when I swapped the shocks over, seemed far too many in the donor car, so I just left it. Had some time this afternoon, so took her in for an alignment, and the camber was fine without them. Toe-in was a fair way out, so they fixed that, and apparently it's all good to go. |
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