|
| ToranaGuy |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: I'm not sure you can have just pieces engineered, that would be more along the lines of ADR approval. I thought it had to be engineered to the car, not the actual kit, so if you took it off and sold it the engineer's report is now useless, well, should give the new owner confidence the kit could be re-engineered I thought Hoppers Stoppers provide engineer reports with their kits? Yes they are a kit, but most of the hardware is off the shelf items. There is only a couple of custom items. At the end of the day, the only pieces that are not stock off the shelf already ADR compliant are the actual hub, machined stub axel & the caliper mounting adapter. I've gotta talk to my engineer in regards to a project soon, so I might ask them the question in regards to this brake conversion. Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ef_falcon_95 |
|
|||
|
may be different in nsw, but see what he opinions are on angle grinding the rotor off then machining the hub.
i cant see a problem as there was next to no heat cutting it off, and the hub is adr approved or whatever cos it came on the car from factory. cheers
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ef_falcon_95 |
|
|||
|
made one bracket. spun the disc and it clears it . had to pack a washer in between the bracket and caliper bracket, i was wondering why there was a gap at either end of the bracket but then found out the rotor is warped bad and the caliper bracket isn't parallel to the other side .
just need to file a bit more off the bracket, then drill another hole for the caliper bracket and drill and tap a hole in the bracket so i can bolt it to the upright. basically the kit is done, just need new ball joints, braided lines, get uprights and hubs crack tested then paint calipers and uprights, get pads and some other minor tweaks. then road test and hope nothing fails. the only thing i can think of going wrong is the bracket may move a bit because i drilled on hole 14mm and im using a 12mm bolt, but the other end of the bracket will be drilled and tapped M10, so if it does somehow move/slide i can drill a hole down the bottom and drive a pin through the upright and bracket pics cardboard template  metal bracket      
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ef_falcon_95 |
|
|||
|
finished the bracket and it worked great, rotor clears the caliper bracket. caliper fits on good.
just have to clean it up with a file, give it some paint . and also have to make another bracket for the other side.    
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| MAD |
|
|||
|
Well done!
Looks like it's come together really well. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ef_falcon_95 |
|
|||
|
thanks mate, its basically done, 90% ready to go on. just have to see how they go when they are on.
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| MAD |
|
|||
|
You wouldn't think, as long as you've used good bolts (which you have), that anything could really go wrong. There's a lot of meat around the holes in the uprights, so that tearing out is unlikely.
The only thing would be uneven pad wear, if the calipers aren't square. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Johnson stroker |
|
|||
|
Told you those rotors were warped didn't I.. Looks like its coming together well though Corey.
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ef_falcon_95 |
|
|||
|
Un even pad wear is nothing really , won't worry me changing pads every 6 months or so .
Not only are they warped side to side you some how managed to warp them up and down lol . But could also be some slight play in the holes in the rotor when it's over the studs
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| kick_ass_ford |
|
|||
|
Looks good man if u dont mind me asking hom much money do you think the set up has costed you?
_________________ EF XR6 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ef_falcon_95 |
|
|||
|
I don't mind at all, that's what its all about mate getting big brakes for a good price .
This is what its going to cost me AU 329 mm rotors slotted $230 pair AU twin piston caliper $40 a pair Caliper seal kit $50 does a pair Pads $65 Braided lines $100 Bearings $35 pair Paint $70 Studs $40 Total $630 All machining was free , uprights and old rotors were free but anyone doing this upgrade would use there own anyway . Plate metal free Bolts free For someone else doing this you'd really have to be able to get the machining done cheap . The maching is very basic , took 8 hours to do uprights and 8 hours to do rotors . Even if you payed someone to do it you'd still be infront by $1000 easy compared to race brakes kit .
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| kick_ass_ford |
|
|||
|
I need a tonfind someone tobdo the machining cheep then
 )
_________________ EF XR6 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| knowsfords |
|
||
|
Just need a hub/disc with a face that will sit +30mm out from where the face of the e-series discs sits
|
||
| Top | |
||
| ef_falcon_95 |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Just need a hub/disc with a face that will sit +30mm out from where the face of the e-series discs sits im not sure what you mean lol but my kit keeps e series off set. at the moment its +8mm ( 8mm being the thicknesss of the rotor) im going to see how that runs and if it causes issues i can face 8mm off the face of the hub
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| BenJ |
|
||
|
This is coming together really nicely now.
If you were supplied the required uprights and rotors, how much would you charge to do the chopping and machining? Cheers BenJ
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} - Current Ride |
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: Google Adsense [Bot] and 15 guests |
