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| Matt_jew |
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One thing to check is that the swept fluid area of the E series master cylinder is comparable with the AU2 calipers.
If the cylinder isnt pushing enough fluid due to running dual piston calipers on a single piston brake system it may not be getting enough clamping force and causing the issue where you feel as though the rotor is slipping through the caliper. If it isnt pushing enough fluid the fix is an AU2 master cylinder and booster. From memory I think Terrorist Ghia did that to his. Will they lock enough to activate the ABS? Otherwise looks awesome mate!
_________________ {USERNAME} wrote: More people paid for a ride in a VT commodore then an AU Falcon so the VT is superior.
Based on that fact my Mum is the best around! |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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I havnt tried to see if I can get abs on , not yet . Au2 master cylinder will be next I think . See how they go .
The passengers side rubs on the shim but only around corners not under braking , I'll check that out tomorrow , other than that they are great , no more noises makes it feel much safer . And another thing , I had a look a dc Todd's old rotors and his fins face in opposite directions to each other , like what mine are now lol
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Turn out you were right matt , I contacted the guy I got the rotors off and he said RDA slotted rotors face towards the rear . Regardless of cooling fins .
Took the car up and down Macquarie pass , up it went great. But down made noises. Rotor is rubbing on the shims when I go around tight corners , on the straights its fine , round the street its fine , I'm guessing the load on the bearings is causing the rotor to rub on the shims , I'll swap the rotors over and trim the shims and see how it goes .
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| ToranaGuy |
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Nice progress mate, keep at it, you are on the home straight now.
In regards to the brakes & master cyl displacement. One thing I know about older holdens is they had master cylinders that were less than 1 inch bore, and there were some you could get that were 1inch bore or slightly larger, like the "big nut" master cylinder found on the high performance models. If you have a quick squizy thru the PBR catalog it should show the sizes for the E series master & the Au2 master. I'd be very surprised if the Au2 isn't a bigger bore. Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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| snap0964 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: It has been mentioned on Aufalcon and FF that you don't need to change the master cyl. There are a few differences on primary/secondary piston capacities, and most significant, split points - particularly with wagons.Probably not noticeable with moderate braking, but might be significant with hard/emergency stops. The AU shop manual posted here does have the caliper/mast cyl specs for AUI (same as EF/EL)and AUII.If you do get an AUII mast cyl, get it from a sedan or ute (not one tonne or wagon).
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| ToranaGuy |
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I decided to lookup the cat for curiosity sake.
From the PBR Cat...Au2 Falcon ACTUATION Brake M/Cyl 04/2000 - 09/2002 SEDAN, TRACTION CTRL, ALL MODELS, 25.40/31.75 mm B227-085 EF Falcon. ACTUATION Brake M/Cyl 08/1994 - 04/1996 SEDAN, 23.81/31.75 mm B227-069 ACTUATION Brake M/Cyl 05/1996 - 09/1996 SEDAN, 23.81/31.75 mm B227-069 ACTUATION Brake M/Cyl 09/1996 - 08/1998 SEDAN, 23.81/31.75 mm B227-069 (EL?) It looks like early gear is about 15/16 & later gear is a 1inch master cylinder. Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Thanks for the info ToranaGuy .
The brakes are getting better now they have bedded in more . Au2 master cylinder would be something to look into..
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| ToranaGuy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Thanks for the info ToranaGuy . The brakes are getting better now they have bedded in more . Au2 master cylinder would be something to look into.. Your welcome dude. It's easy to know where to look for specs when your in the spare parts game. Hoppers Stoppers mention that while not "required", upgrading to a 1inch master cyl when you fit their big brake kits is a good idea for better peddle feel. Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Pedal feel isn't too bad ,when using brakes constantly like down a windy road. The pedal is hard, but your on the highway then go to slow down and its softer .
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Lol my car is empty inside , except a sun shield thing for the windscreen under the seat .
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| Matt_jew |
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The other option open to you is to have the EL master cylinder machined out and a 1" sleeve fitted to it in stainless.
You will never have to change a master again as they dont wear out when sleeved and it will bolt straight up to the standard master.
_________________ {USERNAME} wrote: More people paid for a ride in a VT commodore then an AU Falcon so the VT is superior.
Based on that fact my Mum is the best around! |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Cheers will need to do something with the master cylinder / brake booster , I think it doesn't have enough force to clamp onto the rotors , they still feel like my old brakes , and pedal feels soft .
Maybe once I swap the rotors over . Just need to trim all the shims as when I go around tight corners On full lock they rub , passengers inside rotor has a mark ,
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| Matt_jew |
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Maybe also since the hubs were not originally designed for a slip on rotor they may be walking a little.
The easy cure for that would be drill and tap the hub and drill the rotor to take a countersunk screw like Ford do with the slip on rears to stop walking. Real easy fix. I dont think your vertical runout is anything to be concerned by but it would pretty much eliminate that as well.
_________________ {USERNAME} wrote: More people paid for a ride in a VT commodore then an AU Falcon so the VT is superior.
Based on that fact my Mum is the best around! |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Can you explain the term walking ? Does it only happen under load ? Going around a tight corner ?
I've put a dial indicator on the rotor which was firmly held down by wheel nuts , and side to side run out was under 0.05 mm. I can also take the rotor off and put the dial indicator on the hub but I doubt the reading will change
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| Matt_jew |
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It is possible that with expansion and contraction and side loads that the wheel studs could stretch a tiny amount taking pressure off the rotor and causing the rotor to move back and forward.
The load on the studs when cornering would be huge taking into account the weight of a falcon and g forces. It would take very little movement for the rotor to move a tiny amount. Its much the same way as alloy wheels can loosen over time even though they are done up tight. There will be people who think I am dumb but it would be a real easy thing to put a fix into place for if it was happening. Tight cornering would induce big side loads which would make the issue more pronounced.
_________________ {USERNAME} wrote: More people paid for a ride in a VT commodore then an AU Falcon so the VT is superior.
Based on that fact my Mum is the best around! |
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