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| snap0964 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I have a set of machined uprights that I will use to make myself another kit with all the issues from the first one fixed , but I think I will use a El GT rotor that way its standard offset and less time in machining the rotor down to a hub TBH, I think your method of using an old rotor, cutting the disc off, and machining it the best option.I used a 2mm cutting disc and a squirt bottle. I think if you take your time and not overheat the cut area, you risk less chance of altering it and making it brittle. I couldn't machine myself as the lathe I have access to isn't big enough, and here locally machine shops quoted me $35 - $40 per hub for the machining. I doubt balancing should be needed if the cut area is dressed true, along with the other machined areas. You can get a pair of RDA slotted/dimpled TE/TS 50 rotors for around $190 off Ebay.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| SWC |
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Use Mustang rotors, cheaper and will be easier to get.
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Yeah it is the cheaper option . when I cut the disc off the cut area wasn't discoloured so I don't think much heat was put into it . and as Swc said they may stop making El GT rotors .
Plus with the slip on hub you could use a 355 mm rotor with 6 piston brembos . not sure what offset would be though.
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| snap0964 |
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On DBA's website, they do have a PDF of all their rotors, and dimensions of each.
I found it very helpful finding the rotors I needed - and of course you could then order an equivalent other brand too, knowing they'd be same.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| MICKYYYY |
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{USERNAME} wrote: A pair of Slotted El GT rotors is $578. So yes they are expensive , you could buy some decent DBA te50 rotors. Man that is cheap!!! What brand are they? I got a quote to make up hubs for $550.00 a pair I believe
_________________ Wanted Either Capri/Cortina/XY/XW/XR/XT with tough V8 stroker engine, auto, 9inch, upgraded brakes etc[/SIZE][/size][/color] |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: A pair of Slotted El GT rotors is $578. So yes they are expensive , you could buy some decent DBA te50 rotors. Man that is cheap!!! What brand are they? I got a quote to make up hubs for $550.00 a pair I believe Not sure what brand , they are on ebay .
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| TimmyA |
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Where did this end up?
What is a pair of machined uprights worth to buy? If you are still doing them and have the jig? I'd be keen to take the 7mm off the hub but to keep the same track as I have guard issues as it is... If I was going down this route I'd need to reverse mount the caliper brackets? Hence machining the rear and not the front? Are TE50 rotors the same as EL GT rotors? Or they are floating type? Cheers, Tim
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Its still on my xr6 working fine . I made 3 sets , one for myself and 2 for other people . my set and the 2nd used a hub with slip on te50 rotor ,3rd set was a el GT rotor .
Yes that's correct if you use a El GT rotor or skim 7mm off the hub you can't fit a 10mm thick caliper bracket on the front of the upright ,has to mount on the back . I found this out when I made the 3rd set . El GT rotor is one piece like a standard rotor . te 50 rotor uses a hub and slips over . I can do machined uprights but don't have the time atm to do a complete set up with hubs, rotors. Brackets . I didn't end up machining much from the back when I made the 3rd set as it's machined already for the factory caliper. I machined the front flat anyway so in the future you could change to hub with slip on rotor . you might have to make a new bracket ,the existing holes should line up .
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| TimmyA |
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For you to source a set of uprights (cheaper than me posting them, they don't need to be abs)... And machine the back of them (take the ears off etc)... What sort of cost there (obviously freight to me on top of actually supply/labour costs)? Did you end up making a jig that holds them dead true to do back and front? I wouldn't need the front taken off at all in this case because I'd take the front off the hub and maybe some of the back to push std AU studs through to locate a disc...
Did you end up rectifying pedal feel? It's hard to see in the photos, but were you able to get the bleeders on the calipers right at the top so all air is expelled from the piston cavity? Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Also...
c4 calipers... They're the EL GT ones yeah? Any better than AUII calipers? Were the fitted to anything else (is there another vehicle I can search for to find out if pads and rebuild kits are available? DBA no longer make EL GT rotors and it's looking like RDA don't either... Waiting to hear back... Anyone with EL GT brakes are possibly going to be on their last rotors before they need to come up with a plan b... Cheers, Tim
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| snap0964 |
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Do your own Tim - Corey's put enough info in this thread to get you started. You have the smarts - the only machining you should need is the hub.
The pics are my XR6 wagon setup - AUII calipers on a 300mm hat to fit in a std 15" alloy wheel. The hub is a machined EF/EL rotor, maintains std offset, and the ABS tone wheel as well. The bleeder clears the upper bracket bolt easily enough.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TimmyA |
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The hub is the easy part! So is the bracket...
It's getting a jig made to hold the upright dead true so the mounting faces for the caliper bracket are machined exactly in plane with the disc... I could be paying someone 4 hours of labour just to come up with an idea to make a jig to hold the upright... Who did your uprights Snap? Did you have to space the bracket to get the caliper centred? Or space the caliper? Or you managed to get the right thickness machine from the rear of the upright to line it all up? Cheers, Tim
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| Mad2 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: The pics are my XR6 wagon setup - AUII calipers on a 300mm hat to fit in a std 15" alloy wheel. The hub is a machined EF/EL rotor, maintains std offset, and the ABS tone wheel as well. The bleeder clears the upper bracket bolt easily enough. how much room is there between caliper & wheel? looks close?? |
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| snap0964 |
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how much room is there between caliper & wheel? looks close?? About 4mm, enough to account for caliper movement due to the slidepins. The photo looks deceptive - in real, there's plenty of room.
Who did your uprights Snap? I did Did you have to space the bracket to get the caliper centred? Or space the caliper? Or you managed to get the right thickness machine from the rear of the upright to line it all up? I essentially used a few different thickness cutting discs - cut off the hooks, fitted an old disc rotor to use as a datum to get the front faces true. Then you go off those front faces with a vernier to grind your backs. The bottom mount needs a washer to get the caliper bracket true, the upper caliper mount has an old suspension crush tube cut to size.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| SWC |
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Do you have anymore pics of the brackets, mounts etc. Any extra's would be good.
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