The difference is in the length of the splines not the number of them.

splitting hairs now. so there is a slight difference, but not enought that it will impead the tailshafts required operation. Do we all agree?

while we are on the topic of tailshafts.. i got 4 sitting in the shed they are all identical auto, manual only differents in the early e series the mounting that goes into the diff are like 2 U cuppings an the later one is a plate on plate with 4 bolts the only other differents is..... that the EA MANUAL AN Eseries XR tailshafts are is that they won't "pop" after 180 auto manual all the same length etc...

for clutch an stuff ea not sure about eb? (maybe eb1) the flywheel an clutch is a 3 bolt set up an e series after that is a 6 bolt...

box: ea 1? used the xf box wich has slightly different ratios an something inside the box was mad of a different sort of metal (material) i can remeber of the type of object they used it for off my head sorry...

when you do the pedal box while its out reinforce it cause you never know when it'll give way to you (never happened to me as of yet but my brothers mate has had it happen) (also ea to ed pedal box is different to ef/el)

cheers Dan

[[[if there is any other questions someone would need help with shoot me a pm as i've resently done one an m doing another one in the near future as well]]]

(p.s don't mean to stir anyone up or start any more arguements just thought i'd throw all the stuff i know out there... )

You are correct twase.

On the auto, the splines stop about half an inch from the end and the remaining length is just smooth.

World Class (eb2+) v non-WC (xf-eb1)
Blocking rings: Fiber v Brass synchros
Bearings under gears: needle v journal.
Countershaft bearings: tapered roller v straight roller.

Not much difference in straight out strength, but under normal operation the WC box would operate better for longer.

there you go cheers bloke for filling that in

cheers Dan

Hey guys, sorry to thread mine.

Im going to be doing a manual conversion on my AU next year. I have a T5 from an AU but was wondering, will the auto tail shaft fit the T5 when I fit it? Its a sedan btw.

or just buy a manual ECU from the wreckers.

true, but finding one thats not sold with a conversion is hard to come by, and if they do sell it seperatly they want almost as much for the ecu as the conversion is worth..

around here, just finding good e series parts in the wreckers is getting rare now days..lol..

Is there a legal side to this conversion? As in, do you need to let the RTA and your insurance provider know that your car is no longer an automatic?

I reckon it won't matter with the rego dept, but with your insurance, it's best to let them know of anything significant or you could face implications come claim time.

Gooday Guys, lovin the info on here. Just wanna double check cause I cant seem to get a straight forward answer. I got an EBII fairmont and have everything but the ecu to do a manual conversion, Do i need to get a manual ecu or will the ecu trick be effective for my solution? Any info will be awesome guys

for you nah do the resistor & mayb the ICA [what eva it was]

i bought a whole car [EB2] with a factory manual set up with a 3.27 diif. this will be going in my EB1 wagooon so i don't have any probs