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Paulmac |
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The question is as posted fellas. I know they're different and the balance weight is not there for looks, but how essential are they?
Can I do a manual conversion and use the auto tailshaft, with limitations, until I can find a manual one? Any constructive advice would be very helpful as this is our daily driver and I don't want to jeopardize the family or reliability. It's an EB2 with EL an engine and by Tuesday will have an EL XR6 3.45 LSD. This is just one question I forgot to ask the brains trust at Koala Park to-day. Cheers, Paul
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kezz |
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Paulmac wrote: The question is as posted fellas. I know they're different and the balance weight is not there for looks, but how essential are they?
Can I do a manual conversion and use the auto tailshaft, with limitations, until I can find a manual one? Any constructive advice would be very helpful as this is our daily driver and I don't want to jeopardize the family or reliability. It's an EB2 with EL an engine and by Tuesday will have an EL XR6 3.45 LSD. This is just one question I forgot to ask the brains trust at Koala Park to-day. Cheers, Paul Ive had my auto tailshaft with my 5 speed in my car for a year and a half no probs. Have an alloy tailshaft sitting around somewhere.Need to fit it sometime soon...
_________________ Kezz's 5sp Box Car ---> RPD enhanced with a bunch of other stuff |
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joolz |
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If the driveshaft fits the balance weights and so on wont be a problem. just make sure the the slip yoke has between 20-40mm gap between extension housing seal and the neck of the slip yoke. It cant be any more or less.
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Paulmac |
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Thanks Kezz, at least I know I can keep it on the road while looking.
Thanks Joolz, I'll be sure to check that gap but I think your the man to ask, if so many can run the auto tailshaft, why, or to what extent, are the balance weights essential? Ford would not have put them on for show so there must be a good reason for them being there, don't you think? Paul
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snap0964 |
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Paul, I've been running the auto t/shaft after my conversion for about 14 mths now - no issues whatsoever.
Actually, my ute's a factory manual - it's got the same round damper on the front of it's tailshaft - I've no reason to believe it's a replacement. You're probably best to stay with your auto shaft - being a wagon, isn't it an alloy one ??
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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Paulmac |
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Hi Snap,
I had picked up through Fordmods that many were running the auto shaft but when we started researching the man. conversion the difference between my t/shaft [it's an EB2 sedan BTW] became too obvious to overlook. My t/shaft doesn't have any large damper on it, in fact it's as smooth as a babies bot, with no vibration problems at all. Have I mistakenly assumed that it was only the manual tailshaft that had this damper? I'm chasing an XR6 T5 complete ATM and would really like to know if I should pay any extra for the shaft, as I'm not sure I can convince the seller to include it? We did manage to buy the ED Fairmont for parts and plan to pick it up to-morrow, then I'll have two auto t/shafts so if I don't need the manual.... I just want to be sure, that's all. As you can see, the modbug has bitten deep, start with an alternator.... it seemed so innocent . Cheers Paul
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snap0964 |
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Paul, I don't think it'll make a big diff.
You just need to ensure your replacement shaft is from a SWB vehicle - wagons, utes, f/lanes, LTD's are all LWB vehicles.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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Paulmac |
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Thanks mate,
We've got two swb auto t/shafts now as I got the ED Fairmont home today with no problems. The EL engine and fans performed flawlessly, the alternator hesitates a little before the light goes out. As it was sitting for a fair while at the wreckers, I'll give it a few more days to get used to working again, if no improvement I'll take it back for another. Thanks for your assurances, all I have to do now is get this T5 setup. If I don't, I'll put the ED auto in as its only got 115k on it and leave the manual until after I've done the interior swap. Thanks again, Mac
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joolz |
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Paulmac wrote: Thanks Kezz, at least I know I can keep it on the road while looking.
Thanks Joolz, I'll be sure to check that gap but I think your the man to ask, if so many can run the auto tailshaft, why, or to what extent, are the balance weights essential? Ford would not have put them on for show so there must be a good reason for them being there, don't you think? Paul The balance weights are essential to balance the driveshaft (The same applies for wheels, cranks, harmonic balancers and so on) All components that make up a driveshaft have a slight imbalance (yoke castings, tube wall thickness variations, runout or straightness) |
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joolz |
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snap0964 wrote: Paul, I've been running the auto t/shaft after my conversion for about 14 mths now - no issues whatsoever.
Actually, my ute's a factory manual - it's got the same round damper on the front of it's tailshaft - I've no reason to believe it's a replacement. You're probably best to stay with your auto shaft - being a wagon, isn't it an alloy one ?? The round damper your refering to is a slip yoke damper and yes they will only be found on 4 speed auto's. They are to absorb the "boom" produced when the trans is in 4th (Torque converter lock up boom) You will notice that all the BA II - BF falcons and wagons have them fitted (basically all falcons with a 4 speed auto) |
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snap0964 |
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joolz wrote: The round damper your refering to is a slip yoke damper and yes they will only be found on 4 speed auto's. They are to absorb the "boom" produced when the trans is in 4th (Torque converter lock up boom) You will notice that all the BA II - BF falcons and wagons have them fitted (basically all falcons with a 4 speed auto) Thanks for the info. I'd say my ute was then probably fitted with the wrong shaft at factory (XH auto steel) and it should have a steel shaft with no slip yoke damper - a few things don't add up, like my ECU always gives an Economy light code, but it is a manual ECU.
Bit of a shame they didn't fit a LWB alloy shaft to it , since all auto wagons, LTD's, f/lanes and XH XR's of the time would've had them. So would the slip yoke damper cause an issue with a manual trans??
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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twase |
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snap0964 wrote: joolz wrote: The round damper your refering to is a slip yoke damper and yes they will only be found on 4 speed auto's. They are to absorb the "boom" produced when the trans is in 4th (Torque converter lock up boom) You will notice that all the BA II - BF falcons and wagons have them fitted (basically all falcons with a 4 speed auto) Thanks for the info. I'd say my ute was then probably fitted with the wrong shaft at factory (XH auto steel) and it should have a steel shaft with no slip yoke damper - a few things don't add up, like my ECU always gives an Economy light code, but it is a manual ECU.Bit of a shame they didn't fit a LWB alloy shaft to it , since all auto wagons, LTD's, f/lanes and XH XR's of the time would've had them. So would the slip yoke damper cause an issue with a manual trans??
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XR9UTE |
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Can these Yoke dampers be bought new? I don't like the look of the rubber in either of the ones I've got.
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sooty72 |
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Back when I worked at a driveshaft shop, we would just remove the damper off the slip yoke if it looked "iffy", and balance the shaft without it. We were of the opinion they were fitted because the tailshaft balance was a bit off...
Never seemed to make much difference, especially with an alloy shaft.
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