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| bennomate |
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So there i was driving down the great western highway at 80kmh in wet weather wondering why i suddenly had a rock hard brake pedal with no warning whatsoever. Crawled home to investigate and:
Attachment: File comment: Booster 01 booster 1.jpg [ 192.09 KiB | Viewed 141 times ] Attachment: File comment: Booster 2 booster 2.jpg [ 119.13 KiB | Viewed 236 times ] Im feeling lucky  but how do i know this wont happen again? is this some sort of common occurence? i have a replacement booster in there of course coutesy of pick and payless, but i want to figure out what caused it so that i and anyone else can prevent it hapening again!! it goes without saying break faliure is downright dangerous.
_________________ F6 Typhoon Silhouette with Dark Argent rims, build P0001. Stock as a rock and staying that way. |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Same thing happened to me in my Ef. It's a common problem. Always cracks at 3 o'clock . I had to drive around with s**t brakes for a day or 2 until I could get to the wreckers . I used the handbrake to stop. My brakes still worked as mine was only a small crack and I patched it up.
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| TerroristGHIA |
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Replace it with an AU2 Booters and Master, Ploblem solved.
They all do it. They fail from heat and are more prone if you have extractors. You could also look at sheilding them with soem sort of heat wrap etc. I have been through 6 in total on my fairmont, and changed to AU2 recently. Be advised, it is not a bolt on job, you need to carefully measure and drill new holes into your firewall. Brett
_________________ The Terrorist ED Retired due to RUST. |
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| TROYMAN |
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or go with an ed steel booster, only need to drill 2 holes...
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| arm79 |
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It's not a common problem.
It's really a problem of your/our own doing.  I see you have pacies... Does it have a proper heat shield over it? I'm assuming not, hence the crack in the spot where it gets the hottest, and in line with where the bolts clamp down and hold the unit together. Only seems to happen to those with unshielded exhausts. I'd be replacing the cruise control backup pressure switch, as that will probably be next. |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Mine cracked when I had stock exhaust on , with heat shield
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| Krytox |
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Also add a bracket from the end of the booster to the strut tower or similar,
Not only will it stiffen up the brake feel, but also reduce the stress the plastic booster gets when you hit the pedal.
_________________ Carefree, we may not be number one, but we're up there. |
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| TimmyA |
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Love my ED all steel dual diaphragm booster... Nice improvement over std ED booster...
Krytox, will that make of a difference to an ED with a steel booster? Is there that much firewall flex? Cheers, Tim
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| 67RCE |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I have paccies but have a heat shield. It does dramatically reduce the temperature insider the engine bay I have nothing to compare it to, but I have a modded heatshield over my 4480's in my NC.
_________________ ILL60 - EF XR8, Sunroof, Ticky Kit, 19x8.5/19x11 TE37's, 347, AFr185's, TFS BoxRcustom converter, Hurst Quarterstick, huge billet cam. |
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| OZBMX |
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Potentially 14 yr old part I've had 3 faulty ones one failed I replaced it with a "second hand one", It failed, a few months later I purchased another second hand one, this was already faulty, so I tried again with second handy and in the near future I got rid of the car, intended to anyway, hence using second hand.
as mentioned no guarantee, but you would have much more chance of it not failing putting in a new part, not a x years old part. mine never failed that substantially, whether nursing it home effected it, I personally was lucky enough to be near enough home to just tilt tray it.
_________________ Signature removed by moderator.signature must not exceed 120x500 pixles |
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| fiftyone |
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had it happen to me twice. Lucky enough I only found the issue while backing out the driveway, not doing speed.
Extractors will speed up the rate they die as the heat shield won't be there, however, I think I can track mine down to being caused by ethanol. First was just after a service where injector cleaner was used & the other I had a tank of E10 in it. The timing was also fairly retarded which has now been fixed. maybe it was ethanol fumes weakening the plastic, extra heat, chance? either way, I've covered the booster in that silver heat tape just to keep it cool. even if it does split again, it needs to rip the tape apart
_________________ ** For Sale ** {DESCRIPTION} |
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| 67RCE |
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Ehanol caused it? Thats the biggest load of crap! I'd call it plastic fatigue, no other causes.
_________________ ILL60 - EF XR8, Sunroof, Ticky Kit, 19x8.5/19x11 TE37's, 347, AFr185's, TFS BoxRcustom converter, Hurst Quarterstick, huge billet cam. |
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| TROYMAN |
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{USERNAME} wrote: ^ ethanol can also cause pod filters to catch on fire how??? if ethanol can set a pod on fire so can petrol...lpg would have a better chance of setting a pod on fire. you would need one huge a** intake backfire to set a pod on fire.. |
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| TROYMAN |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: ^ ethanol can also cause pod filters to catch on fire how??? if ethanol can set a pod on fire so can petrol...lpg would have a better chance of setting a pod on fire. you would need one huge a** intake backfire to set a pod on fire.. Was a joke Cos coppers say that pods can catch fire etc etc ok, for a second i thought you lost your mind...lol |
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| fiftyone |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Ehanol caused it? Thats the biggest load of crap! I'd call it plastic fatigue, no other causes. well as I say, I used it twice & blew up 2 boosters. heat or something. wont be putting ethanol or injector cleaner in again
_________________ ** For Sale ** {DESCRIPTION} |
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Cobalt blue EF XR6, Pacemaker 4499s, 2.5" redback catback, intake, head shaved, wade 977b, crow valve springs, pedders suspension.
