Yeah, thanks for that.
I've seen pics of the Mal Wood pin on another forum - I'm still of the belief that to have a manual pedal box and have it done properly, it needs to be removed, 'fixed' and reinstalled.
There is a trade off with my method, you won't be able to remove the brake pedal in future - shouldn't be an issue I would think. You need to install the brake pedal without the plastic bushes (even with wet rags and bushes installed, I doubt they won't melt whilst welding) - allow for at least 17mm (plastic bush length) LH movement for both shafts, do your welding, cut the collar off one of the plastic bushes, lube and slide it on and through the brake pedal shaft hole, then lube and install the other bush. Fit the brake pedal shaft through the RH pedalbox hole and clip it.
The 'clutch pedal pin' needs to sit 46mm proud of the sheet metal - the factory pin has a 5mm collar, so you need to find something to suit - maybe drill out and fit one of those green EF/EL brake switch spacers with a washer.
If you have everything laid out in front of you, you should be able to understand what's been said here.

Yep, that all makes sense - very much appreciated!

One question about the Mal Wood option, where are people getting ya clutch pedals from? I would have thaught wreckers would be reluctant to seperate them from the rest of the pedal box..

wreckers will seperate most things. alot of places around me just keep the box's and scrap the rest.

Im a bit at a loss as to why not just use a manual pedal box, if in the end an auto one needs to be ripped out and welded anyway..

I assume install/remove of both is the same deal, or is it the case that manual pedal boxes need reinforcement aswell, which begs the question did ford ever release a manual falcon that wasnt factory f**k?

you will find almost all pedal boxes that have been removed or used in a conversion have been welded aswell. they are well known for cracking.

I no what you mean by the pedel box does bend, as i had Man EL Gli and it got fixed once replaced with new one then several months later bent again. I replaced clutch cables often in my EL the traffic driving has hard toll on the very hard pusher. My standard new clutch was just a PBR one that was still just as truck like in pushin it into the floor. I was going to look at getting it converted to hydrolic set up usin system from xd man v8.

The manual pedal box is STRUCTURALLY virtually IDENTICAL to the auto one - maybe the manual one might have an extra bit where a switch mounts or something - it's easily enough converted - the MAIN DIFFERENCE is that the manual one has the post for the pedal welded on whereas the auto one just has a hole there - thats where the Mal Wood pedal pin is fitted - it just fits into that hole.

There are TWO issues related to manual vs auto pedal boxes:

1. The manual pedal box is absolutely NO STRONGER than the auto one in that pedal pin area - so the manual box just bends and distorts as badly as an UNMODIFIED auto one - in both cases that area needs strengthening.

2. This is the biggie - an off the shelf manual pedal box will cost somthing like $200+ (!!!!) but the auto one costs only $120 - that's brand new from Ford. So even if you have a factory manual Falcon and your pedal box is collapsed - a GOOD OPTION is to buy a factory AUTO pedal box, change over the extra brackets for switches etc. (tiny bit of cut & welding - real cheap to have done - very easy for self to do if you have ANY welding knowledge - or a mate), beef up the side where that pin goes or modify it to have a cross-shaft and / or get a Mal Wood pin (about $80).

The real winning option is to buy a secondhand auto pedal box from a wrecker for something like $50 - it will have never had a manual pedal pin in it so structurally you're looking at the same item as a newy....

I'm very soon going to get a new/goodsecondhand auto box, transplant all the pedal gear over, double up the wall on that pin side, and make up an extension shaft that screws onto the back (nut) end of the Mal Wood pin and extends across to the other side where I'll drill ahole to put a bolt thru that screws into the end of that extension - using spacers so the extension can be screwed onto the end of the Mal Wood pin after it is in place - this will alleviate the twisting force around the base of the pedal pin - which is what KILLS all of them.

ps - the extra switch I'm talking about is I think an neutral drive switch - maybe makes idle speed drop slightly wih clutch IN?? - ie. so if you don't mind a slightly high idle with clutch IN then don';t even worry about that f**k...

Hi

Can someone out there give me a run down on how the easiest way to to take out a pedalbox on an el xr6 i to have repair mine because of a crack that is appearing on the side of the clutch pedal pin. I have already had the firewall cave in and ive made up a plate for that now its time for a pedalbox repair

Thanks Ren59

basically you will have to remove the whole dash to get it out due to the locations of the bolts.

yup certainly do and crack as well.........I just replaced mine in wagon, FORD SHOULDA BEEN HYDRUALIC!!!

Hi fellas

My EL XR8 is my 6th Falcon Ive owned, but its my first Manual and Ive only had the car for a month. The clutch pedal force is quite high in comparison to say any other manual vehicle Ive driven. It is quite fatiguing as to change gear I have to stomp to the floor.

Ive managed to wind the clutch cable out some, which has helped a little, but still having difficulty.

The footrest on the clutch pedal looks like its bent to the left and its quite creaky when I use the pedal. Both myself and my misses are quite short people and having the seat all the way forward, I struggle with the clutch - my misses is even shorter and Id hate to drive the EL if I was her.

How do I know if theres anything wrong with the device. What things can I look for with the clutch cable/pedal box? Ive had no experiance with maintenance on pedals.

Help anyone?

Sorry for wasting time, I should have inspected the clutch assembly first before posting.

On inspection, the clutch cable is down to about 2 threads from the adjusting nut, and the whole pedal is off at an angle. This is caused by a crack which has developed on the clutch pedal pivot shaft mount. This looks like a stupid setup, designed to fail, why would anyone mount a high load pivot point from one end of the shaft. FFS

Time to start pulling her apart... again...

Some pics if anyone is interested. Not sure how Im going to tackle this, thinking about lathing a longer shaft and having it supported at both ends.

i had to recently pull the pedal box out of my ea, and i welded up both sides of the shaft, all over where it was cracked and so far it has been really good, i would upload some pictures but cant. i replaced the clevis, bushes and clip for the pedal, you should look at doing the same, as when you weld it, its already stronger then factory as the factory made is thin and has many weak points, have you strengthened your firewall?