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| Shmat |
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So I have a question to ask,
Is it possible to swap the end over on a diff? (the bit that connects to the tail shaft) Because I've had it done before by a mechanic, and when I took the two diffs I had today in to get done, I was told that it wasn't possible and I'd need to get them fully rebuilt, now from what I heard I thought this was possible and since its already been done before I saw no problem? Please correct me if I'm wrong, would just like to clarify it as I am going back there tomorrow to sort it out. |
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| TimmyA |
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That flange that bolts to the tailshaft cannot be changed without needing to set the diff up again...
You'd have to pull the axles and the carrier out and then hang onto the flange and unbolt the pinion from it... Replace the colapsable washer on the pinion... Fit the new flange... Torque the pinion back in... Measure the preload on it... Install the carrier... Check the mesh pattern... Re-shim as necessary... Check the backlash... Install hat and axles and fill with oil... Basically easier to re-build the diff... Question is... Why do you wanna change that flange and what to? Cheers, Tim
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| Shmat |
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Cheers, that's what the guy said to us, well the reason is, i have two diffs and the one that's going back on the car has no flange on it, so i was going to just get the other one taken off and put back on the on going on the car.
I've had it done before and he never said anything about it, he just took the flange off and bolted it back onto the other diff, so i was just curious to why he never said anything before. |
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| TimmyA |
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How did you acquire a diff without that flange? You could do it without going inside the diff but that collapsable washer is a once use item from my understanding and the preload can only be checked without the carrier in place...
Would be cheaper to find someone wrecking a car and pull one out out of it yourself and shoot them $50 bucks or something... He may not have been aware at a previous date and is nowadays... You wouldn't know... Cheers, Tim
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| Krytox |
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Just unbolt it and throw the flange on.
Its a BW diff, not open heart surgery. The bearings are probably worn in so the preload could be low. Throw it on, tighten it up, check end play and tighten up till its gone and then give it one final tap.
_________________ Carefree, we may not be number one, but we're up there. |
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| Shmat |
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Well here's the full story, might help.
The ute had a 3.23 (i think?) single spinner in it when we got it. We then bought a 2.7 LSD from the wreckers, and didn't realise that the LSD had a different flange on it and wouldn't fit on the tail shaft, so we took both diffs to the mechanic and he unbolted both flanges and put the correct one on the LSD no problem, then we fitted it up and have been driving it for 6 months, now we've noticed the 2.7 ratio is pretty bad for daily driving and is chewing the fuel, so we decided to swap the old diff back in, BUT the problem now is that it has no flange on it, and when we went back there today to ask him to swap it back over he said it wasn't possible. |
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| TimmyA |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Just unbolt it and throw the flange on. Its a BW diff, not open heart surgery. The bearings are probably worn in so the preload could be low. Throw it on, tighten it up, check end play and tighten up till its gone and then give it one final tap. It's funny... Everyone here is of the "she'll be right mate" stance... While everything you read is "you must torque this 56.145Nm, Not 56, not 57, 56.145"... Make it really hard to know exactly how much care you do have to have take with a diff to avoid the gears chopping each other out...  Cheers, Tim
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| Shmat |
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Haha yeah I know what you mean, I'm not too fussed about it tho, nothings gone wrong with the current one, we're just sick of the ratio's. So it can be done, just its not recommended as things can break?
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| Krytox |
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I only went by the 'She'll be right mate' from my own experience in this circumstance.
I by no means encourage shortcuts on drive-line or brakes. I've personally worked on many diffs from escort Banjo's, Salisbury and these BW's and Haven't encountered issues with backlash and or noise. I can't however offer a guarantee it'll be flawless and trouble-free experience for the next person. If it were a 'exotic sports car' I'd pay to have it done. But for a run of the mill Falcon that's stretching 15+ years on second hand components I tend to offer some advice I know wont harm someone or break the bank. If the person had contacted the forums before changing the original flange, I'd would have advised to change the tail-shaft flange and have the uni's changed and balanced the lot rather than root around with the diff. Uni joints are an Item I strongly advise people not to overlook.
_________________ Carefree, we may not be number one, but we're up there. |
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| TimmyA |
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it isn't so much break... You just run the risk of putting the gears out of alignment... And if they aren't spot on then they wear into each other and eventually howl from what I understand... Once they howl they can't be fixed and must be replaced... Unless you like the sound I suppose...
Cheers, Tim
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| Shmat |
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Well thanks for the advice guys, this forum really is great!
 and its not really a car that everyone depends on, if it starts "howling" then i guess we could just get a new diff down the line. cheers again.
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| TimmyA |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I only went by the 'She'll be right mate' from my own experience in this circumstance. I by no means encourage shortcuts on drive-line or brakes. I've personally worked on many diffs from escort Banjo's, Salisbury and these BW's and Haven't encountered issues with backlash and or noise. I can't however offer a guarantee it'll be flawless and trouble-free experience for the next person. If it were a 'exotic sports car' I'd pay to have it done. But for a run of the mill Falcon that's stretching 15+ years on second hand components I tend to offer some advice I know wont harm someone or break the bank. If the person had contacted the forums before changing the original flange, I'd would have advised to change the tail-shaft flange and have the uni's changed and balanced the lot rather than root around with the diff. Uni joints are an Item I strongly advise people not to overlook. Yeah thats understandable... And I'd agree on modding the tailshaft before rooting around with the diff... Not meaning to point the finger at anyone and say that isn't right... But I haven't had an understanding of diff's for all that long... Only when I put the Lokka into my ED and then pulled it back out again... I asked a thousand questions and read as many simple to follow Ford based manuals as I could... And the two sources are nearly completely the opposite which left me rather confused about what I should and shouldn't be weary off... So I went real cautious when i did it... Everything was torqued exactly and back exactly where it came from... Again I never went as far as removing the pinion... So me... I'm still learning in a fashion... I do tend to be more over cautious than not though... Cheers, Tim
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| Shmat |
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So i have another question now, what would be the best way to get the flange off yourself? i've tried before but failed as i don't have alot of tools
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| snap0964 |
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A puller is normally the easiest - but of course you won't have one.
Try tapping the flange from the rear with a rubber mallet on each side - they're not on too tight.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| Shmat |
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Managed to get it off myself, went out and got the tools, just used a small gear puller and got it off easy, chucked it on the other diff and tightened it according to what a mechanic told me and just have to see how it goes now.
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