Have had a new sports clutch fitted to my EF XR6 Manual,
Clutch appears very heavy, clutch pedal looks twisted, and is very hard to push in..
It's got to the point where i can't drive it,
Help or tips would be greatly appreciated. (:

-Cheer, Pete..

have a look at the pedal box, might be starting to break where the pedal joins

Yup - sounds almost certain that the pedal box is cracking up. Also look real good at the bulkhead where the cable spiggot is for cracking...

Considering it needs to come out to be repaired anyway, I'd strongly suggest getting a NEW Automatic pedal box - getting it reinforced - ie. sidewall doubler plate - then fitting a Mal Wood pedal shaft to it. The brake and accelerator shafts and pedals etc. from the old box will swap straight across.

A new Manual pedal box was quoted to me as something like $160 vs $40 for a new Auto pedal box. The Auto pedal box is identical to the manual one except it has a hole where the shaft goes - so that's where the Mal Wood shaft comes in (the way the factory shaft is fitted on the manual pedal box is pathetic).

Alternatively, get the existing one repaired (if its not too badly mangled) AND REINFORCED - but have the original pedal shaft removed and a Mal Wood one fitted instead.

And with the Mal Wood shaft, get an extension put on the back of it which can be braced to the adjacent parallel shaft - that will keep the force on the shaft in plane with the box sidewall - ie. offset angular leverage. The Mal Wood shaft ends up with a section of bare thread showing past it's fastening nut - so you just weld another nut on the end of a suitable diameter piece of tube - else tap a tube with suitable I.D. - else drill and tap a solid shaft - you get the idea...

If you have the existing box repaired and retain the factory shaft then still do the same thing - ie. weld an extension shaft into the back of it.

Also, get a small clamp put round the saddle bracket on the end of the cable - ie. that attaches the cable to the end of the pedal - because the ball on the end of the cable can spread the end of the slot in that saddle bracket, cause the bracket to crack and then pop out - very nasty in traffic. A clamp to fight the ball spreading the bracket should prevent that.

And you can get the pin on the end of the pedal arm relocated closer to the main shaft - ie. to give better mechanical advantage to the pedal. This comes at the cost of increasing pedal travel but consideriong most HD clutches have REDUCED travel the offset doesn't become an issue. I removed the pin from my pedal, drilled another hole immediately adjacent to the original hole (you'll understand when you see a clutch pedal out of the car - the pin is inserted thru a hole and tack welded on the back face) then had the original hole filled and the pin welded into the new hole - final result moved the pin about 12mm closer to the pedal axis and made a huge improvement in reduced effort and improved sensitivity with the difference in travel being quite insignificant and not an issue whatsoever.

Next thing that happened was the firewall spiggot tore out - I repaired that mechanically - ie. without any welding - by cutting out the damaged section then using two plates and a section of tube with threading on the outside (which became the new spiggot) and angled bits of pipe (to give proper spiggot angle) and nuts on each side.

yep check the pedal box as the above have suggested, ill bet my left nut the firewall would be cracking aswell if you havent gotten a firewall strenthening plate yet, if it hasent cracked yet it willonce you fix the pedal box so kill the 2 birds with 1 stone, "fiend" on here makes fancy pants looking ones and sells them to members