|
twr7cx |
|
|||
|
There's two 13mm hex bolts - that's easy enough.
But what's the go with the handbrake assembly? I'm assuming the spring and cable are whats stopping me from pulling the caliper off... |
|||
Top | |
joolz |
|
|||
|
Only undo the lower bolt and hing the caliper up. Remove the outer pad and with a G clamp and leaving the inner pad on press the piston in with the G clamp. Remove G clamp and old inner pad, fit new ones and hinge caliper back into position and fit caliper bolt. Bed pads in according to manufacturer steps.
|
|||
Top | |
nannas_ed |
|
|||
|
under the car near the transmission you will see the handbrake equaliser. take the r clip out and push the equaliser out of its spot. this will give pleat of slack in the cable to take the calipers out. obvioulsy put it all back together when you finish.
cheers
_________________ |
|||
Top | |
Schmee |
|
|||
|
forget the G-clamp with e-series rear brakes unless you want to replace your calipers go to repcoe/bursons or similar and buy the correct tool to wind the piston back on the worm drive,(only costs around $20-25) they fit onto a 1/2" drive extension bar and ratchet and apply pressure while turning the tool/piston....from memory one goes back in counter-clockwise and the other clockwise, its been a while since Ive done rear pads so I'm unsure of which goes which way.
dont forget to back your handbrake cable off , this is located under the drivers floor, using a 13mm spanner and a small shifter to hold the cable, so you can readjust it after youve fitted the new pads the method of undoing the caliper usually works ok, but I find that if you remove the caliper then the disc, remove the phillips head screw holding it to the axle, then bolt the caliper back on to the mounting plate saves you trying to hold it while turning the caliper back hope this helps... Kev if all else fails someone may be able to scan the section from the ellery's or factory workshop manual for you
_________________ Succesful trades with blur1, Felony, Jinxed, Dansedgli, Commando, Peyote, WAGHOON |
|||
Top | |
snap0964 |
|
|||
|
Some light reading: http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=48515
Might be an idea to borrow an EA/EB/ED or XH manual and read it so you know exactly how to do it (clearances for handbrake adjustment, etc), it is pretty basic, but can cause frustration. Also the Gregories EL shop manual has an XH section, so that can be used as well.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
|||
Top | |
Froudey |
|
||
|
tthe rear pistons needs to be spun in anticlock wise or s**t been a while from i did a rear set.
_________________ R.I.P Tobias my son. |
||
Top | |
joolz |
|
|||
|
ahh me bad! so EB still uses the x series rear caliper with the stinky ball bearing type cam handbrake set up! yes the piston has to be wound back in to fit the new pads. Sorry for the mis information.
|
|||
Top | |
twr7cx |
|
|||
|
All done now, was a bit of a prick. It didn't take me this long - I've had a huge sleep in between.
How I did it. Undid the 13mm bolts. Then the 13mm bolt on the back of the caliper that holds the handbrake bracket in place, remove the handbrake cable from the bracket on the caliper, there's a funny knob thing in there, use a shifter to twist this while pushing the piston back with a piston pusher thingo, and all done. A prick I must say - makes me glad to own the EF! |
|||
Top | |
Who is online |
---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 58 guests |