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bondy99 |
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Age: 65 Posts: 1128 Joined: 13th Sep 2010 Ride: Ford Falcon AU 2000 Series II Location: Crestmead |
G'day everyone.
Can any one tell me whether I need to replace "caliper guide pin bolts" ? According to Gregorys Manual on page 213 it says "Do not reuse caliper guide pin bolts. These bolts have a special adhesive coating that is damaged once removed". Is there any truth to this or is it all bulldust. If not bulldust, where can I buy these from and where abouts are these caliper guide pin bolts, only bolts I can see is caliper bolts that hold the caliper in place. Is that what is refered to? I also notice some black type of mould on the sides of the master and fluid looks a bit susc. How do I flush this out? Do I use new brake fluid or something else to flush it out with. Any help on this is appreciated. Cheers |
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bry40l |
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bondy99 wrote: G'day everyone. I flushed mine with brake fluid, theres probably somthing better out there that cleans though
Can any one tell me whether I need to replace "caliper guide pin bolts" ? According to Gregorys Manual on page 213 it says "Do not reuse caliper guide pin bolts. These bolts have a special adhesive coating that is damaged once removed". Is there any truth to this or is it all bulldust. If not bulldust, where can I buy these from and where abouts are these caliper guide pin bolts, only bolts I can see is caliper bolts that hold the caliper in place. Is that what is refered to? I also notice some black type of mould on the sides of the master and fluid looks a bit susc. How do I flush this out? Do I use new brake fluid or something else to flush it out with. Any help on this is appreciated. Cheers
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bondy99 |
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Age: 65 Posts: 1128 Joined: 13th Sep 2010 Ride: Ford Falcon AU 2000 Series II Location: Crestmead |
uniacidz wrote: Man o man. Pay someone to do it i recommend. If you havent done it before, pay someone to do it and ask to watch. Then once you have seen it done you can do it yourself. Brakes are very important, install them wrong or too much air in the system, peddle may travel to the floorpan and you may not be able to brake in time. For somethign as vital as stopping, dont go cheap No worries. I've done brakes before on an older car but never came across modern vehicles that had some spin about caliper guide pin bolts...hence the question posted...apart from the contamination..I used methylated spirits and compressed air to clean masters and slaves in the past on older vehicles, then put new breake fluid through them. However, my newish car is 11 years old (year 2000)...one before was 1974...had it for 30 years. Different vehicles, one with computer aided gizmos, the other was without. |
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bondy99 |
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Age: 65 Posts: 1128 Joined: 13th Sep 2010 Ride: Ford Falcon AU 2000 Series II Location: Crestmead |
uniacidz wrote: My manual, Ellerys, suggests to remove and discard the caliper bolts as well and guide pin boots. I have never done it myself, hopefully someone gets back to you on it I wonder why that would be the case? More and more like a throw away society we are living in. In Gregories it never mentioned anything about throwing away the caliper bolts, just the guide pin bolt...thanks for picking that up... Wonder where I can source new ones from, apart from Ford? Thanks again |
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madmax |
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bondy99 wrote: According to Gregorys Manual on page 213 it says "Do not reuse caliper guide pin bolts. These bolts have a special adhesive coating that is damaged once removed". The adhesive coating will most likely be some sort of thread locker on the threads. I have never used any sort of thread locker on brake bolts. Not saying don't but I'd be careful which one you use. Something like loctite 243 which can easily be undone later. You should be able to buy replacement hi-tensile calliper bolts from any good bolt shop. The guide bolts are most likely ford only and the rubber boots should be available from Repco, Bursons etc
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bondy99 |
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Age: 65 Posts: 1128 Joined: 13th Sep 2010 Ride: Ford Falcon AU 2000 Series II Location: Crestmead |
madmax,
Thanks mate, I'll pull one of a wrecked vehicle and take it to a bolt shop to get 4 for the front and 4 for the rear. Loctite 243 , thanks for the heads up. Cheers |
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gotta luv a v8 |
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Hi, might be just me and maybe ime doin it wrong but when I change the pads in my au I just undo the bolts that hold the callipers to the wheel assembly, use a G-clamp with the old pad in to press the piston back in to make room for the new pads and then put the old bolts back in (I don't use loctite maybe I should but the bolts have never came undone) and if I want to change the fluid I just bleed them till the new fluid comes through, never had to remove the guide pins for a pad change, basicaly the callipers still seem much the same as me old XY, cheers
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hans hartman |
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bondy99 wrote: madmax, Thanks mate, I'll pull one of a wrecked vehicle and take it to a bolt shop to get 4 for the front and 4 for the rear. Loctite 243 , thanks for the heads up. Cheers the bolts will be high tensile,red colur loctite is a medium thread locker for vibration,do you have 1 or 2 pistons?if the guide pins slide easy and dont stick,use them.i wonder if they bend or wear.i would change all the seals,i found the chrome pistons rusty and almost siezed,had to replace them.a g clamp will push almost any piston back,but how much pressure.iry the bleeder srews,they may be frozen or snap off.take it from there.
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martinp |
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gday al
idrive an au 1 had the brakes done at least 6 times nearing 400000k never had the bolts or pins replaced and thats by a ford machanic |
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madmax |
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gotta luv a v8 wrote: Hi, might be just me and maybe ime doin it wrong but when I change the pads in my au I just undo the bolts that hold the callipers to the wheel assembly, use a G-clamp with the old pad in to press the piston back in to make room for the new pads and then put the old bolts back in (I don't use loctite maybe I should but the bolts have never came undone) and if I want to change the fluid I just bleed them till the new fluid comes through, never had to remove the guide pins for a pad change, basicaly the callipers still seem much the same as me old XY, cheers Nah your not doing it wrong, that's all I do. But sometimes you do need to remove the guide pins to re-grease them if they've seized up or the rubber boots are split.
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madmax |
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bondy99 wrote: madmax, Thanks mate, I'll pull one of a wrecked vehicle and take it to a bolt shop to get 4 for the front and 4 for the rear. Loctite 243 , thanks for the heads up. Cheers If your getting new bolts, make sure with the front 2 that they aren't different. I don't know about AUs but E series front calliper bolts are 2 different size bolts.
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bondy99 |
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Age: 65 Posts: 1128 Joined: 13th Sep 2010 Ride: Ford Falcon AU 2000 Series II Location: Crestmead |
No worries, thanks for the advices.
I'm at a stage that I will be replacing discs and rotors, so may as well do the brakes, shockies and springs whilst I'm at it. Does not look like its been done for past 10 years. Front shocks making a noise over bumps and low spots in general. Big job ahead. Cheers |
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OZBMX |
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madmax wrote: bondy99 wrote: madmax, Thanks mate, I'll pull one of a wrecked vehicle and take it to a bolt shop to get 4 for the front and 4 for the rear. Loctite 243 , thanks for the heads up. Cheers If your getting new bolts, make sure with the front 2 that they aren't different. I don't know about AUs but E series front calliper bolts are 2 different size bolts. I believe au's ar the same bolts up front but however series 1 vs s2,3 use differenbt bolts even on the back are only a 2-3 mm different on the back but the wrong ones will rub.
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bondy99 |
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Age: 65 Posts: 1128 Joined: 13th Sep 2010 Ride: Ford Falcon AU 2000 Series II Location: Crestmead |
Thanks all,
I'm off to the wreckers today to get a bolt from each...front and back to make sure. Cheers |
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