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0rgasmic |
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Hi Guys,
I am replacing, or at least trying to replace the front springs on my ED XR6. Got the Wheel off, undid the top ball joint, undid the stud connecting control arm to the sway bar, took the caliper off, but I can't get the spindle to swing out of the road like every tutorial says to do. The bit up the top that the ball joint bolts into stay attached and just moves when i push everything down. Any idea's? Have read the manual and searched high and low but no dice. I can get the top and bottom shock bolts out, and have mostly levered the shock out but seem to be missing some clearance. Do I need to compress the springs more? will that help(yes i have compressors). Wish they were as easy as the rears. Thanks for any help. |
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Mad2 |
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think on the ones i wrecked ...
i undone the upper control arm mounts [keep an eye out fa what shims there are per side] after compressing the spring? and swaybar maybe wrong tho |
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0rgasmic |
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well got the drivers side out, not sure if it is because i jacked both sides up, or i just felt rejuvenated after puppy school and my levering of the top control arm popped it off. Will have another go at the passenger side soon.
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TimmyA |
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You haven't got the top ball joint to come out of the top arm?
You don't need to undo the swaybar link... Put the nut back on the top ball joint a few turns to stop it dropping out and hitting you or something else... Then flog the top arm with a big hammer hard until you break the taper seal holding the ball joint in... Aim for the edge around where the ball joint it (DO NOT HIT THE BALL JOINT)... The percussion will eventually break the taper lock... Once it breaks the taper you undo the nut again and the upright will drop out of the top arm... Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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0rgasmic |
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Passenger Side is being a turd. Will give the extreme force a go lol. I have another issue in the the bottom shock bolt won't come out of the hole. Hoping this will be sorted when i finally get the ball joint of the top controller arm.(my luck that both are stuck fast)
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0rgasmic |
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still no luck, hammer was utilised to little effect. have a scissor jack holding pressure on it while i hit it and didn't do anything. just have the jack there exerting some pressure while i calm down a little. 3/4 done. always the last one that has something go wrong/no to plan. Mod plate after this too, so it's annoying me more than usual
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TFORD8 |
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Im only guessing that ed would be same/similar to ef, so heres how I do mine...
Jack up, blah blah, wheel off, blah... I undo the 4 nuts in the inner guards/engine bay that hold the control arm and undo the upper ball joint, remove the upper control arm completely. Iv it sticks, whack up with a hammer, keep nut on few threads if do this. undo tie rod end, if this stick, leave nut on few threads, and bang the stub axle part around it with hammer. I also loosen top nut on sway bar link, just to let me push lwr cntrl arm down that little bit more to pull bottom of shocker out....obviously undo the bottom shock bolt, use pin punch to tap bolt out, save fingers. Undo the 3 outer top shock nuts, and wrestle it out... Sometimes spring compressors help to get out. Then, lay on ground (the shocker, not you...) And carefully, properly, attach spring compressors. Double check on properly... Triple check... Begin to do em up, constantly checking not going to slip off and take out your pretty face, or worse, your 3rd leg! When happy, undo top nut, and you should be right from there... I put bottom of shocker in first, no bolt though, and then push down as I wriggle the top in... Do everything back up to torque, and hopefully all good. Watch how the edges of the spring seats in the right spot, and the rubbers dont mangle... Good luck, be carefull. After all my canaries I can do both fronts bout hr, hr n half. Lol
_________________ EF2 XR8 Lowered on Genuine EL GT 17", Slotted + Drilled all round, Custom retrimmed ghia interior, competition stereo, DiFillipo headers, hi-flow cats, single muffler 3", K&N, custom maf/induction and rear window venetian |
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TFORD8 |
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LUBE!! Lots n lots of lube... RP7, WD-40, CRC.... Break Away is really really good!
Even if leave to soak overnight, I had to do this on lower inner control arm bolt.
_________________ EF2 XR8 Lowered on Genuine EL GT 17", Slotted + Drilled all round, Custom retrimmed ghia interior, competition stereo, DiFillipo headers, hi-flow cats, single muffler 3", K&N, custom maf/induction and rear window venetian |
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0rgasmic |
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Thanks for all the tips guys. WD-40 is my best friend, will be giving it heaps tonight to see of that helps.
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0rgasmic |
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Finally done, ended up taking out the two bolts holding the upper control arm in from inside the wheel arch, then rocked the shock back and pulled the compressed spring off, and the reverse to get it back in. Not the ideal way, but it worked.
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TFORD8 |
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First time is a pain in the butt, and frustrating...
But once figured out and confidence grows, its not too bad. Rears are ridiculously easy, couldnt believe it haha Just remember, Theres a few suspension parts/bolts that need to be torqued when cars on ground, I cant so I do this instead. Lower car, push on bonnet/boot lid few times to settle everything. Measure guard to centre of hub. Jack car back up, put sill on stands. Jack control arm/stub axle up, to about same distance guard to hub. Torque all bolts. Done. A few I cant torque wrench on to, so I just do up sweet f'n tight. Where bouts you live? I can always come give you a hand, you can come here in future?
_________________ EF2 XR8 Lowered on Genuine EL GT 17", Slotted + Drilled all round, Custom retrimmed ghia interior, competition stereo, DiFillipo headers, hi-flow cats, single muffler 3", K&N, custom maf/induction and rear window venetian |
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