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| prydey |
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Is there an easy way to do it at home without the correct tools??
at the moment i've resorted to drilling numerous holes all around the edge and knocking the rubber out and then hacksawing through the metal casing to make it give in a bit and then belt that out. pushing the new nolathane ones in is the easy part and a vice makes short work of it. i've got one side almost done - upper and lower control arms - and the track rod (watts link) all done. just thought i'd ask the brains on here if there is an easier method for the backyarder to remove the old original bushes. I'm also seeing the damage the minispool did first hand. the bushes are all rooted. glad i got rid of that device. all opinions and methods appreciated thanks Rob.
_________________ eb v8: low loud and fast. just how a v8 should be. i guess the big question is, is it fast enough... |
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| ELXR6lookalike |
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I know Bursons do replament change over lower control arms complete for $150, no stuffing round with getting the old bushes out and pressing new ones in, just a thought.
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| prydey |
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bushes themselves are $35/pr so i wasn't going to fork out another $100 for the sake of a little bit of stuffing around. i was quoted $137 for complete arms but chose the cheaper option.
thanks anyway.
_________________ eb v8: low loud and fast. just how a v8 should be. i guess the big question is, is it fast enough... |
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| hans hartman |
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{USERNAME} wrote: bushes themselves are $35/pr so i wasn't going to fork out another $100 for the sake of a little bit of stuffing around. i was quoted $137 for complete arms but chose the cheaper option. i used pipe sections,placed on one side of the arm to receive the bush coming thru,a smaller one opposite to push,and threaded bar long enough to start the whole lot,i do it watching tv. have done xf-hq and vn diff trailing arms that way,next will be ef arms,just done the front,a bit tougher-i used a press.make a spacer to fit into the box section to keep it from crushing and hold it square or tack weld a plate across to box it up.
thanks anyway.
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| hans hartman |
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{USERNAME} wrote: bushes themselves are $35/pr so i wasn't going to fork out another $100 for the sake of a little bit of stuffing around. i was quoted $137 for complete arms but chose the cheaper option. im thinking of 1 end nolathane,the other stock bush to give a little movement,all nolathane may be severe.are you changing to all stock bushes,clean all rust and polish with fine emery paper-cloth backed,a little lube,vaseline or water proof grease to help.they are a press fit,but 12mm-14mm-16mm threaded bar and a nut each end with 2 washers will do it.
thanks anyway.
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| nannas_ed |
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{USERNAME} wrote: bushes themselves are $35/pr so i wasn't going to fork out another $100 for the sake of a little bit of stuffing around. i was quoted $137 for complete arms but chose the cheaper option.
thanks anyway. there a real pain to do, trust me the forking extra $100 is worth not having to go through the head f^^k of replacing bushes. s**t i can even get you a set of h/d nolothane arms for $150
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| ELXR6lookalike |
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My exact thoughts nannas_ed. $100 is well worth the ease of changover.
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| Nigel |
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Your other alternative is to take the arms out and get a mechanic/suspension shop to press them out for you : Shouldnt cost too much?
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| prydey |
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geez guys, its not that hard. i'm not saying i can't do it i'm just looking for an easier way than the current way i did the first side.
i work too hard for my folding to just go and hand it out that easily. i only spent a few hours on it today and jobs done. hans, i tried a similar method to yours except using the vice to press a smaller bar in with a larger pipe the other side to catch it but i found it just flexed the rubber more than anything. the standard bushes have metal casings which obviously seize over time and are a very tight fit anyway. going all nolathane in the rear. may do the front at some stage but the rear was all shagged due to it having a minispool in it for much of its early life. i was told that it may be a bit severe but i don't mind. thanks for the tips.
_________________ eb v8: low loud and fast. just how a v8 should be. i guess the big question is, is it fast enough... |
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| Nigel |
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Easy!. I was always advised to go nolathane for the Watts Link, and rubber for the Arms to keep it nice.
It will handle nice, and be very predictable as you have it;) |
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| kwaussiekid |
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Prydey, I used to work where bushes similar to yours were pressed into front control arms, and they used a 20 ton set up to press them in through a tapering guide. By the way, the nolathane stiffens the whole car up nicely.
_________________ The older I get the better I was! |
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| hans hartman |
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{USERNAME} wrote: geez guys, its not that hard. i'm not saying i can't do it i'm just looking for an easier way than the current way i did the first side. only thing is im a fitter and turner and can make the parts,i have a lathe in the garage and a press,if it gets to hard i have 20-390ton press at work,i tried to make it do able at home and simple,if you are doing both with nolothane,and the rubber ones are flogged,put a washer and nut on each end of bush and nipp up to contain and hold the bush firm and then pull it,they are harder to get out than replace,you can tension the stud and hit with a hammer to jar it loose out of the seat,and hopefully not too much rust in the centre---spray wd40 to lube it,ive taken the short way---new upper arms,nolathane bushed 70 bucks and just have to bush the lowers-----have a spare set to play with,my cars running 24\7,so down time is hours.
i work too hard for my folding to just go and hand it out that easily. i only spent a few hours on it today and jobs done. hans, i tried a similar method to yours except using the vice to press a smaller bar in with a larger pipe the other side to catch it but i found it just flexed the rubber more than anything. the standard bushes have metal casings which obviously seize over time and are a very tight fit anyway. going all nolathane in the rear. may do the front at some stage but the rear was all shagged due to it having a minispool in it for much of its early life. i was told that it may be a bit severe but i don't mind. thanks for the tips.
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| mista_lroy |
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i did the bushes once to,and once only,trust me the easier way is to buy the change over ones,every other bush in an e series ford is a piece of cake bar those ones,by the way how long did it take you to get the one side done just out of curiosity?
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| prydey |
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{USERNAME} wrote: i did the bushes once to,and once only,trust me the easier way is to buy the change over ones,every other bush in an e series ford is a piece of cake bar those ones,by the way how long did it take you to get the one side done just out of curiosity?
i'm not disputing that changeover arms is the easy way to do them. i'm saying i'd rather do them myself for the sake of a little time and effort than spend an extra $131. once i'd worked out belting them with a knockometer or pressing them in a vice wasn't going to work and started drilling them out and then cutting out the casing it only took maybe 2hrs. gave up about 5ish. due to me being a shiftworker and not getting home till 3ish sat morning i didn't start working on it till after midday.
_________________ eb v8: low loud and fast. just how a v8 should be. i guess the big question is, is it fast enough... |
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| relaxed_diplomacy |
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I think there's been some good extra ideas that i might try one day.
How about drilling once through the bush then circling it out with a jigsaw? Then jigsaw the shell and pop out. But i'm not experienced with a handheld jigsaw. There's always the burning option, but . . .
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