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| TROYMAN |
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i run about 42 psi in my 18's..
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| data_mine |
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45psi up front, and 42psi on the back. Factory FPV 19"s
Lower in the back for better traction. harder up front for better turn in. The tyre placard ratings, are there to provide the most smooth ride. They are actually worse for tyre wear and fuel economy.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| krisisdog |
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I think I have 38 or 40 psi in my 235/45 17s, I think thats about the best all round pressure for them.
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| data_mine |
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That's what I ran in my 17"s
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| phongus |
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krisisdog wrote: I think I have 38 or 40 psi in my 235/45 17s, I think thats about the best all round pressure for them. Yeah I run about 38ish...that's when I don't have punctures in the tyres. phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| skidder |
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punktured wrote: From what i've heard, they need to have record in the computer about a complaint on the same part of the road otherwise you have no hope trying to get money out of them. Correct. A public authority can't be held liable for lack of repairs to a road unless they have actual knowledge. They also can't be held liable for failing to inspect roads for repair. If they do repair it and someone makes a claim based on it being a s**t repair job they can be held liable, but they wouldn't hand over a cent without litigation unless their brigade of lawyers thought there was no way they could escape liability.
_________________ EVL098 wrote: Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con. Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays? AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone. |
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| twr7cx |
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Really comes down to you as a driver and how much attention your paying. I've dented my Simmons FR18s a fair few times now (playing rally driver on poor condition dirt roads etc. doesn't help), but being a 3 piece wheel the rim part is easy enough to fix as they're softer (although Simmons say to replace not repair, but stuff that with the price of them), which is why they damage easier too - a more common 1 piece wheel is less likely to get damaged as easy, but when it does instead of denting they'll more than likely crack/break instead - so there's positives and negatives to both. I like many others have been driving around on 18"s for quiet some time with no real dramas.
I tried stepping down to 17"'s to try to regain a bit more road comfort (between the coilovers and low profile tyres it can get quiet hard ride), but they don't fit over my front brakes, so sadly I'm stuck with the 18's. |
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| data_mine |
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What brakes you running?
AFAIK all the e-series capable ones are ok with 17"s.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| twr7cx |
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data_mine wrote: What brakes you running? AFAIK all the e-series capable ones are ok with 17"s. 343mm DBA 5000 series two piece rotors with AP Racing 4 piston callipers - not exactly your standard E-series equipment. Could probably get a 17" wheel over them if you find the right wheel, but the Work Equip (a 3 piece Japanese wheel that is similair in pricing etc. to Simmons) that I have a set of sitting in the garage won't fit over (hits the calliper on the way), but they're a bit of a funny design on the back part of the inner rim which might be why. Some 17"s which don't have too thick a rim part would probably fit over, but then do you really want to run wheels which are thinner in the metal? |
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| krisisdog |
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F**k, thats one way to slow an E series down!
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| data_mine |
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twr7cx wrote: data_mine wrote: What brakes you running? AFAIK all the e-series capable ones are ok with 17"s. 343mm DBA 5000 series two piece rotors with AP Racing 4 piston callipers - not exactly your standard E-series equipment. Could probably get a 17" wheel over them if you find the right wheel, but the Work Equip (a 3 piece Japanese wheel that is similair in pricing etc. to Simmons) that I have a set of sitting in the garage won't fit over (hits the calliper on the way), but they're a bit of a funny design on the back part of the inner rim which might be why. Some 17"s which don't have too thick a rim part would probably fit over, but then do you really want to run wheels which are thinner in the metal? Nice sounding setup. What I meant wasn't stock E series brakes (you can fit a 14" steelie over them). but the various upgrade options. Cebco, Crecent, EL GT etc. I run the DBA5000 on the front of the GT-P, very nice, better dare I say than the Brembo originals.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| Hotka |
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Do you have the kangaroo Paw ones that are slotted and drilled
Cause the i have Dba 504's and they are not the best..... 
_________________ HOTKA'S XR |
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| twr7cx |
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Hotka wrote: Do you have the kangaroo Paw ones that are slotted and drilled Cause the i have Dba 504's and they are not the best..... I'm assuming that the question was for data_mine. But just incase it wasn't mine are the Kangaroo Paw ones, but slotted only (not crossdrilled). |
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| data_mine |
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twr7cx wrote: Hotka wrote: Do you have the kangaroo Paw ones that are slotted and drilled Cause the i have Dba 504's and they are not the best..... I'm assuming that the question was for data_mine. But just incase it wasn't mine are the Kangaroo Paw ones, but slotted only (not crossdrilled). And if it was for me. All the DBA4000 and 5000 series are 'Kangaroo Paw' design. Mine are slotted only. DBA don't rate the cross drilled ones for motor sport use. I track mine regularly.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| Hotka |
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The question was for both of you guys .. thanks
i dunno im over my brakes fkn up constantly i think i will need to do a caliper change over too as the disc arent helping on their own...
_________________ HOTKA'S XR |
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