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Shift Kit - Do it yourself 

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 12:08 pm 
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That's exactly what you're after. The contacts should be as shown in my diagram below. Note that C stands for 'Common', NO is 'Normally Open' and NC is 'Normally Closed'. When there is no power on the relay coil, then the C and NC pins are connected. When power is then applied to the coil, the C and NC pins are disconnected and the C and NO pins are connected.

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Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 12:08 pm 
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with using an on/on switch can u turn the shiftkit off or not, cuz id like to be able to change back to normal if i could?
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Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 12:26 pm 
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where does that red and green wire go to at the top of the diagram on the left? some1 plzzzz
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Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 1:30 pm 
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finnyman ... the reason you use an on/on switch is because this kind of switch has three contacts. There is a common pin, and then two other pins. When the switch is on one side, the common pin is connected to one of the other contacts, and when the switch is flipped, the common pin is connected to the other of the two remaining contacts.

This means that an on/on switch lets you have (1) the shift kit *on* or (2) the factory shift *on*. Read up through the posts as your question has been asked previously.

The red and green wire disappear into the wiring loom and run to the gearbox. You need to be cutting into them at the ECU which is located beneath the plastic cover to the left of the passenger footwell. You will need to cut the green wire and run new wires from it as per the circuit diagram, but with the red wire you just need to cut away some of the insulating plastic around the wire core and solder join onto it.

Make sure that you check through the forum carefully to make sure that you have the right pin numbers for your model ... the EL and EF are different, and I would presume that EAs etc are also different. The very first post in this forum has a link to the original source of this mod, and this has a doco with the correct pins that you need.

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 10:37 am 
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thanx man, ive already bought the stuff and made the little box with the stuff in it but i just wanted to check those wires so i didnt root the car, thanx 4 explainin a bit more in depth for me lol cheers
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 5:16 pm 
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i just got the shift kit in the car and took it for a drive round the block, it changes gears alot quicker but it feels like its lacking a bit of performance when its on, it feels like its lacking the pull and torque it normally has, it was noticable straight away, ne1 had the same problem or no how to fix that? change to a different resistor??
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 5:51 pm 
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The shift kit makes zero difference to power and torque. Assuming that you have the kit connected correctly, it's only effect is to make the gearbox shift more quickly, with less slipping of the bands.

I suggest perhaps you're just a bit more sensitive to your car's acceleration at the moment, given that you're trying to work out how effective the shift kit has been. Try finding a quiet stretch of highway and doing a couple of 0-100 km/h runs, say three runs with the shift kit on and three with it off. You should find that on average you're *very* slightly quicker with the shift kit on (like 0.1s - 0.3s absolute max).

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 7:08 pm 
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yeh that sounds like a good idea man, im a bit worried of the diff though cuz it just slams it every time the gears change, is the diff capable of that kick in the guts on a regular basis, ive dont have LSD just single spinner?
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 9:17 pm 
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I'm not sure about reliability to be honest. Some people claim to have been running it for 2+ years no problem, but I'm considering swapping out the 18 ohm + 5.6 ohm for something slightly different. Haven't had a good look at the circuit yet to work out what resistance I need, but I'm not particularly happy with the current setup. My car is far from a speed machine (0-100km/h in 8.5s) and I normally drive like a grandpa :D so I would hate to fork over $$$ for a new LSD cos I broke the old one saving a few fractions of a second in a drag.

 

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 Post subject: sqeal
Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 10:05 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
it kind of makes a bit of a squeal real quick when it goes into gear which is a bit scary...


I think you'll find that its the serpentine belt chirping as it shifts gears. Mines does it to sometimes (when i have the shift kit switched on).
Nothing to worry about :)

cheers
Tom
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Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 1:09 am 
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I ordered the parts from Altronics. $23 delivered to my work. Apparently they had to ship the relay over from Sydney or something so it won't arrive til Friday. I hope so, cos then I can put it in this weekend :D:D
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Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 10:51 pm 
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Hi was wondering if anyone has done this shift modification to a 5L EF falcon?How does it go?What are the pin numbers and colours for a NF Fairlane 5L S2 1996 (my own car)??From the EF's they have the intergrated ECU with the transmission computer 104pins.Please help...
Thanks

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 5:50 am 
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yeah was just about to ask the same question, what about the NL 5.0L engine

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 4:21 pm 
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Ok so Im in melbourne at the moment, and went to a d**k smith and got 2 X 5w 10ohm resistors, and 2 X 5W 3.3ohm resistors...does this sound right?..

If its not while Im in melb i'll get the right parts...cause it could be a while till i have a chance to go to an electronics store again
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Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:11 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Ok so Im in melbourne at the moment, and went to a d**k smith and got 2 X 5w 10ohm resistors, and 2 X 5W 3.3ohm resistors...does this sound right?..

If its not while Im in melb i'll get the right parts...cause it could be a while till i have a chance to go to an electronics store again


Dont you need the 18ohm and 5.6 ohm? if you do then you can use the 2x10ohm resistors but dont use 2x 3.3ohm resistors when there is a 5.6 ohm resistor available.

As fot the V8 boys, i have posted up what you need and what pins ect. look back through this thread
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