ok as i had a bit of trouble with my limited knowledge of electronics when i made my shift kit, i've tried to put something together to make it a bit easier. This is for the ef i6, but is a similar setup for the el i6. Feel free to let me know of anything i need to change/add

Making a Shift Kit – EF i6:

This is just a simple guide on what I did when I put a shift kit in my ef i6 falcon.
First, read through the documents on http://www.mechanicalforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=19, the ones which are of interest for the ef i6 are overview.pdf and EF_I6_Switched.pdf. If your good with electronics you should have no trouble doing this without any help. However this should help those with only a basic knowledge.

Parts you’ll need:

1 x 10 watt 18ohm resistor
1 x 10 watt 5.6ohm resistor
a spdt or dpdt switch (these are on/on switches, rather on/off)
a small project box to put it in
some wire (capable of 5amp loading)

you should be able to get all this at a decent electronics store for around $10.

As we are dealing with the cars electronics it is important you disconnect the battery before continuing.

To start with, you’ll need 3 short wires (about 15cm) and 3 long wires (about 80cm), colour coded preferably so you know which one goes where. I’ll number the short ones 1 – 3 and the long ones 4 -6.

Simply solder wire 1 from one end of the 18ohm resistor, and wire 4 from the other end. Then, solder wires 2 and 5 to one end of the 5.6ohm resistor, and wires 3 and 6 to the other end (ie, 2 wires coming off each end). Stick these resistors in your project box and have the wires coming out. Make sure there is no chance of wires/resistors touching each other.

Now you need to get to the ecu, this is located on the left side of the passenger footwell, behind the plastic cover. Pull this cover off, its held on by 2 plastic plugs. Now there is one screw to undo, where the groud wire is to the side of the ecu. Take this off then you should have the ecu free now. You need to take the clear plastic cover off the top (if it has one), then the black one as well (this may be a little tough).

The pins are labelled, we need pins 71 and 81. From memory 71 is a red one and 81 is a green one. Make sure you get the right ones. Cut the wire from pin 81 about 10cm away from the ecu. Now you need to solder wire 2 to the ecu side of the cut wire, and wire 3 to the other side (transmission side).

You now need to solder wire 1 to the wire coming from pin 71. You don’t need to actually cut the wire, rather just cut the covering plastic and solder onto it. Now you can put the ecu back together and cover it up, again, make sure the exposed wires are covered so they don’t touch.

Last bit of soldering is the 3 long wires onto your switch. You may want to feed the wires though behind the dash to where ever your going to put your switch first, as it may be tough later when connected. If you have a dpdt switch, you only need to use one side of plugs, either side will do, so you should have 3 plugs your soldering onto. Simply solder wire 5 to the center plug, and wires 4 and 6 to the outside plugs (either way will do). Again make sure the exposed wires don’t touch.

Now just put your switch where ever you want, hide your project box up somewhere under your glove box, make sure all the wires are hidden, re-connect your battery and away you go. Make sure you turn it off in the wet, as you may lose control.

- Neds

[/img]

why say i6????really ford in the falcon ahve never brought out a v???

so can i use this to make one for my ba xr6?? and if so will it still affect the auto when turned off?? ive heard rumors that the adaptive auto transmition losses its ability to adapt and learn driving styles.

mines adjustable and set to 30% for a positive firm shift, nothing too stupid

however i find its still too harsh when crawling using light throttle like in car parks or roundabouts

it would be great if you could have the shift kit rise in firmness in tune with the TPS....... eg. flat throttle would mean 100% shift firmness, and 50% throttle = 50% firmness

ok this is in reference to the diagram earlier the 18 ohm resitor is replaced with a 20 and is tapped into pin 57 and the 5.6 ohm resistor is replaced with a 1 ohm and goes to pin 38 (the one you cut)