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NLGHIA5.0 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Cheers thanks for that...gives me something to do this weekend....have you had it in for long? I just put it in yesterday. Nice hard, positive shifts at full throttle, but probably a little too thumpy at part throttle, especially in traffic, so its good that you can switch it off. The thing feels like it jumps a foot sideways during a full throttle shift. If you need any advice with installing it just ask. |
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Lucion |
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{USERNAME} wrote: ok as i had a bit of trouble with my limited knowledge of electronics when i made my shift kit, i've tried to put something together to make it a bit easier. This is for the ef i6, but is a similar setup for the el i6. Feel free to let me know of anything i need to change/add Making a Shift Kit – EF i6: This is just a simple guide on what I did when I put a shift kit in my ef i6 falcon. First, read through the documents on http://www.mechanicalforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=19, the ones which are of interest for the ef i6 are overview.pdf and EF_I6_Switched.pdf. If your good with electronics you should have no trouble doing this without any help. However this should help those with only a basic knowledge. Parts you’ll need: 1 x 10 watt 18ohm resistor 1 x 10 watt 5.6ohm resistor a spdt or dpdt switch (these are on/on switches, rather on/off) a small project box to put it in some wire (capable of 5amp loading) you should be able to get all this at a decent electronics store for around $10. As we are dealing with the cars electronics it is important you disconnect the battery before continuing. To start with, you’ll need 3 short wires (about 15cm) and 3 long wires (about 80cm), colour coded preferably so you know which one goes where. I’ll number the short ones 1 – 3 and the long ones 4 -6. Simply solder wire 1 from one end of the 18ohm resistor, and wire 4 from the other end. Then, solder wires 2 and 5 to one end of the 5.6ohm resistor, and wires 3 and 6 to the other end (ie, 2 wires coming off each end). Stick these resistors in your project box and have the wires coming out. Make sure there is no chance of wires/resistors touching each other. Now you need to get to the ecu, this is located on the left side of the passenger footwell, behind the plastic cover. Pull this cover off, its held on by 2 plastic plugs. Now there is one screw to undo, where the groud wire is to the side of the ecu. Take this off then you should have the ecu free now. You need to take the clear plastic cover off the top (if it has one), then the black one as well (this may be a little tough). The pins are labelled, we need pins 71 and 81. From memory 71 is a red one and 81 is a green one. Make sure you get the right ones. Cut the wire from pin 81 about 10cm away from the ecu. Now you need to solder wire 2 to the ecu side of the cut wire, and wire 3 to the other side (transmission side). You now need to solder wire 1 to the wire coming from pin 71. You don’t need to actually cut the wire, rather just cut the covering plastic and solder onto it. Now you can put the ecu back together and cover it up, again, make sure the exposed wires are covered so they don’t touch. Last bit of soldering is the 3 long wires onto your switch. You may want to feed the wires though behind the dash to where ever your going to put your switch first, as it may be tough later when connected. If you have a dpdt switch, you only need to use one side of plugs, either side will do, so you should have 3 plugs your soldering onto. Simply solder wire 5 to the center plug, and wires 4 and 6 to the outside plugs (either way will do). Again make sure the exposed wires don’t touch. Now just put your switch where ever you want, hide your project box up somewhere under your glove box, make sure all the wires are hidden, re-connect your battery and away you go. Make sure you turn it off in the wet, as you may lose control. - Neds [/img] I am sorry for the dumb question but what is a shift kit ...and what dose it do Thanks Lucion |
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Landau510 |
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NL...thanks for the info, I might give it a go making oneof the variable ones from the ground up
Lucion....a shift kit is for an automatic transmission. Put simply it reduces the amount of time in neutral when your car changes gears.
_________________ Lets just pretend I give a s**t and leave it at that..... |
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Lucion |
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{USERNAME} wrote: NL...thanks for the info, I might give it a go making oneof the variable ones from the ground up Lucion....a shift kit is for an automatic transmission. Put simply it reduces the amount of time in neutral when your car changes gears. Oh cool thanks for that ...but is thats not what the enco switch dose ? |
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NLGHIA5.0 |
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A shiftkit makes the auto shift faster and harder. The Econ switch just lowers the point the engine changes gear and makes it kickdown later. It makes shifts slightly slower too I think, or at least feels like it does.
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Lucion |
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{USERNAME} wrote: A shiftkit makes the auto shift faster and harder. The Econ switch just lowers the point the engine changes gear and makes it kickdown later. It makes shifts slightly slower too I think, or at least feels like it does. ah ok...well thanks so much for your time mate |
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Landau510 |
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So after a bit of stuffing around my adjustable shift kit is in and workin like a treat. In econ mode the shift is firm and sharp but not clunky regardless of what I set it to. BUT on non-econ mode it slams it in nice and hard and gets a bit sideways under full loud pedal at about 1/4 turn of the dial...havent gone to full dial with pedal to the floor yet...will wait till my egr arrives so I have a propper mount for the accelerator cable.
After a bit of dremel work the dial sits nicely beside the shifter Just to clear up a bit that got me stuck (probably only because of my stupidity) the TCM is NOT directly in front of your knee for the DL (and mostly likley others)...that box is the BCM and is coloured depending on what model/level you have. The TCM is the larger silver box behind the BCM and closer to the firewall. It has a yellow plug and is mounted vertically. The plug is right at the bottom.
_________________ Lets just pretend I give a s**t and leave it at that..... |
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badkiwi |
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dam i want one , but u guys all just made me so confused lmao to much techincal for this dumbass.
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Falcon369 |
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Any ideas which method I need to follow for a 94 XG ute? thanks
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TROYMAN |
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in xg same method used in ed or el 6 cyl
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Falcon369 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: in xg same method used in ed or el 6 cyl So 2 different methods? And I would distiguish them through the numbering on the ecu? sorry about my lack of knowledge, I am new to the modifying scene. |
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TROYMAN |
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yes, ef had different pin configuration to eb-el and the v8 had a seperate ecu for the gear box..
your xg has the same pin configuration as eb2,ed and el |
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blueprinted |
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i just tried this on my au3 xr8 but it doesn't do anything
i did the adjustable kit as per the v8 diagram but shifts as per normal parts used 5ohm adjustable pot 18ohm resistor 6pin on/on switch to pins 29 and 30 on the tcm |
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badkiwi |
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i hooked up my ajustable one i got , an yeh it changed much quicker now, .
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yoda598 |
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Can i do this in my NA ltd? i have the mpfi engine and the 3spd borg warner box.. Hope so...
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