ok as i had a bit of trouble with my limited knowledge of electronics when i made my shift kit, i've tried to put something together to make it a bit easier. This is for the ef i6, but is a similar setup for the el i6. Feel free to let me know of anything i need to change/add

Making a Shift Kit – EF i6:

This is just a simple guide on what I did when I put a shift kit in my ef i6 falcon.
First, read through the documents on http://www.mechanicalforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=19, the ones which are of interest for the ef i6 are overview.pdf and EF_I6_Switched.pdf. If your good with electronics you should have no trouble doing this without any help. However this should help those with only a basic knowledge.

Parts you’ll need:

1 x 10 watt 18ohm resistor
1 x 10 watt 5.6ohm resistor
a spdt or dpdt switch (these are on/on switches, rather on/off)
a small project box to put it in
some wire (capable of 5amp loading)

you should be able to get all this at a decent electronics store for around $10.

As we are dealing with the cars electronics it is important you disconnect the battery before continuing.

To start with, you’ll need 3 short wires (about 15cm) and 3 long wires (about 80cm), colour coded preferably so you know which one goes where. I’ll number the short ones 1 – 3 and the long ones 4 -6.

Simply solder wire 1 from one end of the 18ohm resistor, and wire 4 from the other end. Then, solder wires 2 and 5 to one end of the 5.6ohm resistor, and wires 3 and 6 to the other end (ie, 2 wires coming off each end). Stick these resistors in your project box and have the wires coming out. Make sure there is no chance of wires/resistors touching each other.

Now you need to get to the ecu, this is located on the left side of the passenger footwell, behind the plastic cover. Pull this cover off, its held on by 2 plastic plugs. Now there is one screw to undo, where the groud wire is to the side of the ecu. Take this off then you should have the ecu free now. You need to take the clear plastic cover off the top (if it has one), then the black one as well (this may be a little tough).

The pins are labelled, we need pins 71 and 81. From memory 71 is a red one and 81 is a green one. Make sure you get the right ones. Cut the wire from pin 81 about 10cm away from the ecu. Now you need to solder wire 2 to the ecu side of the cut wire, and wire 3 to the other side (transmission side).

You now need to solder wire 1 to the wire coming from pin 71. You don’t need to actually cut the wire, rather just cut the covering plastic and solder onto it. Now you can put the ecu back together and cover it up, again, make sure the exposed wires are covered so they don’t touch.

Last bit of soldering is the 3 long wires onto your switch. You may want to feed the wires though behind the dash to where ever your going to put your switch first, as it may be tough later when connected. If you have a dpdt switch, you only need to use one side of plugs, either side will do, so you should have 3 plugs your soldering onto. Simply solder wire 5 to the center plug, and wires 4 and 6 to the outside plugs (either way will do). Again make sure the exposed wires don’t touch.

Now just put your switch where ever you want, hide your project box up somewhere under your glove box, make sure all the wires are hidden, re-connect your battery and away you go. Make sure you turn it off in the wet, as you may lose control.

- Neds

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Last edited by neds on Sun Dec 26, 2004 12:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

got a small diagram that may help if someone can host it for me

good diagram neds... its a bit more professional than the one u had when we did mine!!!! LOL

Tis a fine description there neds. Lol, could have used it when i did mine last year, took me a while to translate the diagram into how it actually goes together.

Lol @ turning off in wet..... agreed, kinda dont really go anywhere....

i am making one next week thanks to you guys and your diagram neds

will let you know how i go

anyone got a diagram for the brighter brake lights ...i have the parts ... need to know where they go ...

Thanks All

thanks heaps for that neds, real easy to follow instructions and diagram...

all together now so just need to finish work and put it in...

by the way, can you change resitors to adjust the shift even more? or could you have a variable resistor were you adjust the firmness of the shift?

Yes you can, but you'll have to change both of them. I'm not quite sure what ones you'll need. You could ask the guys on mechanicalforms.com, in the shift kit section. They have a better understanding.
In saying that I suggest you try this first cause you'll find it goes pretty hard already. Go any harder and you could start doing some damage, read up on what has happened to people when their tailshaft breaks doing 100km/h

I believe a higher resistance value on the S5 pin will increase firmness. Dont go too far - can send the trans into limp-home mode or if too firm can damage drivetrain.

Can use a variable resistor but 10W ones are fairly chunky IIRC.

well i put it in yesterday and can i say it shifts awesome now... thanks for the info it is the kind of stuff that ford users need...

which one of the two resistors controls the harder shift?

if anything i would like it to shift just a little softer than it does which would be a good balance...

is this really gonna be better for my auto etc? it kind of makes a bit of a squeal real quick when it goes into gear which is a bit scary...

Any of these shift mods siutable to ED Sprint Auto's, very interested...

Any of these shift mods siutable to ED Sprint Auto's, very interested...

That's the V8, yeah? Easy peasy mate. Get urself the instructions for the V8 TCM version at www.mechanicalforums.com

Chr!s - changing either of the resistor's values will change the shift. I think lower on the 5.6 will soften, higher on the 18 will soften. Higher on the 5.6 will increase firmness and lower on the 18 will increase firmness.

in my old car which was an ebII 6 cylinder when i did my diff (i put lsd with 3.9) they put in the gearbox for me a solinoid or sumthin cause i was there when they did it in front of me...cause they had to drain the oil from the gearbox to take the cover off (summthin like that) and then they took somthin out and replaced it with another little round cylinder thing that was adjustable about the size of a D battery i think?? and then i was able to chirp 2 and 3 easy..(little work to the motor) is this the same as the diagram u should or is what i did better.. cause i wanna do it to my new car again.. and the diagram looks a bit easier cause u dont have to go under the car...and drain the gearbox..