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| FORDom |
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Hey guys, my front rotors are on their way out, and i was considering replacing them with DBA slotted & cross drilled rotors.
I can pick up a set for around 250 without pads, but i was wanting some opinions on whether this will make a big improvement in braking? thanks I should also mention, that i will replace the rears with just slotted at a later date (when they need to be done) |
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| dabloodemess |
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Go for plain slotted rotors, unless your main use is race conditions for your car. Cross drilled rotors have a nasty habit of developing cracks between the holes under temperature extremes, so unless you want to replace them again in a few months go slotted. Going from stockies to DBA slotted on the front i noticed a substantial difference.
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| FORDom |
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i considered slotted also, but thought for an extra $72 it would be worth getting cross drilled too.
how often do they crack between the holes? |
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| Froudey |
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FORDom wrote: i considered slotted also, but thought for an extra $72 it would be worth getting cross drilled too.
how often do they crack between the holes? yeah simple driving would suggest not that often... but i havn't had experiance with them so i don't really know i would just go with normal slotted with a new fresh set of organic brake bads
_________________ R.I.P Tobias my son. |
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| steveurban |
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have got a set myself...braking is better & looks great.
checkout "vpw" i got mine for just over $100 each. |
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| FLASH |
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Breaking is better, they look better, but after 15,000k's mine cracked straight through i was lucky they didn't shatter. i am running slotted now and have found that for the spirited drive they are much better. the cross drilled and slotted heat up really quick which can lead to brake fade but they cool down quick also... the slotted rotors take longer to heat up but hold their heat for alot longer... brake fade.
personaly i prefer the slotted. my 2c.
_________________ FALCAHOLIC Last edited by FLASH on Tue May 20, 2008 9:47 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| steveurban |
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will go a set of slotted & dimpled ones next time round myself.
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| skidder |
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i think i read somewhere that dba's dont have the slots/drill holes cast into them, and that they are cut into them later.
Now if this is the case it would make sense that the rotor would be weaker (stressed metal where cuts are made) and would warp/crack easier... pretty sure brembo's are cast with the slots (not sure about cross drillings)
_________________ EVL098 wrote: Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con. Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays? AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone. |
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| FORDom |
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Thanks for the replys
just one more question, how long would i expect my crossdrilled or slotted rotors to last compared to standards? |
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| dc357 |
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I also am about to have 4 slotted DBA rotors fitted,
Do a bit of home work on pads, Bendix Ultimates are suppose to be good,but Ive been advised that they are a bit aggresive on rotors. Dont get drilled-I wanted to as they look hot but after hearing of holes cracking will stay with slotted only. Lifespan will depend on how & where car is driven.
_________________ "When Cars Were Steel"
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| Sharpyelghia |
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I fitted slotted rotors to my el ghia and one problem you may face is shudder at about 80+ kmh. I had to have mine machined at about 8000km. The bite is far superior, though.
_________________ He was like a god walking amongst mere mortals. He had a voice that could
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| fiend |
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** TORQUE SETTINGS **
I'm looking at getting SLOTTED (no holes) on the front of my EF wagon, FUTURA as they appear to be very warped (wobbling steering shudder 100kmh+ and big wobble through steering and brake peddle when applying break hard or at speed...) I have a EF FAIRMONT wagon in storage which has newish rotors, but they got the same problem within 10,000 km. I have read that there is actually a TORQUE setting for doing up the nut that holds HUB and WHEEL BEARING. Apparently this (if wrong) can cause similar symptoms (and possibly hasten the wear of disks anyway.) I've also noticed that my tyre people use a rattle gun to put the wheels on. This isn't always the best move as I've also heard there are actually TORQUE SETTING FOR THE WHEEL NUTS and that you can actually simulate the same brake peddle and steering wheel shudder by screwing wheel nuts wrong! So - I have heard (and read) about these torque settings - But cannot seem to find them anywhere! I have a feeling I need new bearings on left front anyway, so when putting new rotors (disks) on front I would like to make sure everything goes back on to proper specifications. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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| xb-coupe-351 |
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I have drilled and slotted all round on my ELXR8, never had a drama, good breaking especially with the ABS, they warp no more than standard ones, if anything less, thats why they make em, they are better.. I have noticed a trend of people using different disks and pads front to back, use the same rotors all around.
Do not use rattle gun to tighten wheel nuts ever on any car, as it will warp the disks, especially on E series Falcons, I have see this on company cars over the years, every time they go in for tyres a week later the disks need machining. Anyone goes near any of my cars with a rattle gun I will make them pay for the damage they cause, also overtightens and strips and damages wheel studs to the point of failure, it should be illegal to use rattle guns on wheel nuts. Also stay away from Bendix Ultimate pads, way too harsh on rotors, it eats them real fast, for no real benefit, use Bendix Standard pads, that way the rotors do not get damaged, and just change the pads when they need it, it only takes about 15 minutes....PS get the Rotors (even new ones) checked and machined prior to fitting, even if they just skim some metal off to ensure they are perfect before installing, and use a torque wrench (good quality one at that) |
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| fiend |
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Thanks for that - awesomely helpful post (above...) although I am still at a loss as to what the actual recommended torque settings are..!
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| StrawbZ |
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if its your daily driver , from what i have read from other threads and my old job, got with slotted, but if your going all out id say crossed
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