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spongy brake pedal after new discs/pads 

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2006 7:38 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Just to confirm, is that the brake pressure switch for the Cruise Control or the one underneath the master cylinder ?
The one you're after is the one that sits underneath (EF/EL).

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2006 10:58 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
ALSO after bleeding the system REMOVE the plastic brake fail switch on the master cylinder, give the brakes a few hard pumps and replace the switch. this resets the proportioning valve and returns the pedal to correct height and feel. :P 8-)


should the key be turned to the on position when i do this or just left out altogether?

 

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 Post subject: Braided brake lones
Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 12:13 am 
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Where can I get some braided brake lines from and how much, I have a slightly spongie pedal as well.
I'm changing rotors and pads to get rid of the dreaded E series 100kph brake shudder.
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Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 12:31 am 
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ok tried it. pulled out the plug, jumped in and started pumping the pedal. by the second pump it was firm and by the third like stepping on a brick.

so jumped back out plugged it all back in and started her up. As soon as i hit the brakes they went to the floor again, same as before.

tried unplugging it and pumping a few more times, but still no change.

however, the interesting thing is once i turn the car off again and pump the pedal it goes hard once more. previously, i could mash the pedal with the car off and it would still stay soft.

so why is it losing all the pressure as soon as i start the car? then regaining it once the car is off?

thanks for all the help guys, keep it coming :)

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 11:43 am 
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Has anyone else got the greenstuff and slotted disk combo?
I do.
I was told not to.
Interesting fact is I have a real soft and low pedal.
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Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 12:15 pm 
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yeah, i hear what your saying. but i had this exact set up on my old EF and the pedal feel was great. nothing like this.

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 1:14 pm 
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when ya were beeding the brakes did ya have someone in the car pumping the peddle or did ya use a vacuam type bleeder

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 5:48 pm 
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i was pumping the pedal whilst my mate was at each corner. but they were re-bled at a brake shop afterwards anyways

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 7:19 pm 
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yer but if ya push the pedal too far on the bleed ya can tear a sael in the master

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 7:49 pm 
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i had the same problem with my EBC/slotted combo

just bled the brakes today. they are still a little spongy but SO much better.

one of the lines (the front left) let a big air gush out when we bled it. i am glad i found my problem

gives u a bit more confidence to just push that lil bit harder when braking

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 7:57 pm 
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Quote:
yer but if ya push the pedal too far on the bleed ya can tear a sael in the master


if you push the pedal to hard period, the secondary seal gets pushed through the booster. Mate did it to his EF, and i did the same to mine.

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 17, 2006 11:35 pm 
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interesting disscussion guys , i have the same problem on my AU s1 my brakes were working fine but the rotors were worn so i replaced them with genuine ford items and a cheaper pad thinking they wouldnt were my disc as fast , but since if done this my pedal is long and soft, bleed it many times , travelled 1000ks since and no better, i'll be watching this thread closely,, ken
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Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 2:43 am 
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yeah im having some problems with my brakes too. it feels as though the rear brakes ain't really holding on and the pedal seems slightly stiff. might need to try some of the stuff u guys tried. ill be watching this thread too.

 

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Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 9:17 pm 
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the reason i say when ya on the bleed is its alot easier to push the pedal to the floor when theres a nipple open hench ya push the pedal further then its been before in some cases 5-10 years so the seals a little hard then it just tears

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 9:13 am 
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mate had a look last nights and it seems the master cyclinder is leaking. gonna replace that, and hopefully fixes the problem

 

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