Has anyone had this problem on their EL's?

If so how do you fix this?

Cheers

Only if it's a really rough surface, tram tracks or road works where the road has been dug up. But this is only due to the road dragging the wheels slightly...not so much that the car changes lanes but you can feel the tyre being sort of stuck.

Yeah I get alot, but when it does do it the steering seems really loose. Is there any way I can fix this or could reducing the power steering aid help this a little bit?

If the steering is really loose, might be the intermediate shaft on its way out. If I remember correctly, they don't sell those new anymore and any second hand ones might be just as bad. I just live with it...

have it checked as their are a few parts that wear out.

There is actually a preload setting under the steering rack.. you take this big lock ring off and tension the preload spring cover it's around as per the manual.. I did that to the wifes and together with the tie rod ends it made all the diff.

Thanks guys

What did you use to get the big lock ring off? i've been meaning to do that but I think it's about 46mm and nothing fits.

I don't remember to be honest, It may have been multi grips to get the lock ring off.

I chopped a wheel mag nut in half as it is the same size and shape as the indentation in the actual round plate and then put a socket on that so I could apply the torque wrench..

worked well.

Ok, problem solved.

I talked to my mechanic and he said that the loose steering and the tracking is due to a combination of things.

First - I have an XR6 which came stock with a negative camber.
Second - I lowered my car, which generally increases the negative camber and changes the castor
Third - The E-series was never designed to accomodate wider wheels, which again further alters the camber and castor
Fourth - The wheel alignment was out, not just the toe in/out, but the castor and camber as well.

Therefore he told me to get a castor/camber kit, which adjusts the neg camber and the castor.

After which the front needed a proper wheel alignment, not one from your regular Bob Jane or Beaurepairs, according to my mechanic most of these places only do toe in/out adjustments and dont have any other equipment to adjust the castor or camber. He sent me to a wheel alignment specialist who had the proper equipment to adjust all three variables. i.e. toe in/out, castor and camber.

Got them all done today and man what a difference. The car barely tracks and the steering feels way more meaty. Even when I go over bumbs the steering wheel doesnt shake.

The wheels alignment guys said that even with the camber/castor kit I still had too much negative camber, therefore they had to put in extra shims to even it out.

First - I have an XR6 which came stock with a negative camber.
Second - I lowered my car, which generally increases the negative camber and changes the castor
Third - The E-series was never designed to accomodate wider wheels, which again further alters the camber and castor
Fourth - The wheel alignment was out, not just the toe in/out, but the castor and camber as well.

that will do it,with it lowered below xr height,whats the castor now?

You mean in terms of adjustments i.e. numbers.

Sorry man got no idea.

my guys give you a print out,so i can see any changes.why i asked,my xr8s on stock ride,i had -3.5 deg both sides.after a kit i had -1 deg. and ran out of threads.20-22mm of shims to get -1deg,you went lower.

Yep, should always get a print out of before and after.