this is taken from my build thread:

heres where it stands:

I have everything hooked up the way its meant to be. I have power, smartshield icon (car with little hand inside) flashes intermitently as its supposed to.

But turn the key, and all you get it two faint small clicks, and the smartshield icon flashes rapidly.

If you do this after disconecting and reconecting the battery you get bASE come up on the dash.

I noticed that the plug on the back of the head (coolant temp sense???) is loose. I fiddled with it, and now when you turn the key you get a little wirr noise (almost like an elctric pump) for a second or two.

theres no action going on with the starter motor at all. This all hapened exactly the same with a brand new battery that my brother brought around.

Buggers me, what do you guys think?

Ive been told that the BEM (no idea what this is) will need to be reset by ford, as the codes in the smartlock will be different from the ignition and the ECU.

so going to have to put auto ecu in and see if it starts.

if it does Ill have to get it to ford in Deer park (the closest to bacchus marsh, probably close to 35 mins away at normal highway speed) in LHM.... this is going to be terrible lol.

The auto ECU should start the car and it should drive normally.

it did start the car but it didnt run beyond a second or two.

for those who arnt aquainted with my build thread, when I first put the manual loom in the engine bay, 3 plugs were found to be different from s1 to s2. these were the MAP, TPS and coil pack, which on s1 is the same as EF, whereas AU2/3 are different.

The idea was to cut the three s2 plugs from the auto loom, and graft them into place on the s1 loom. when I inspected the wiring order, I found that the plugs carried the same colour wiring, but they were in a different order in the plugs (so the pinouts were different). I sought some proffesional advice, and was advised that ford are known to use the same colour wiring for each job, so I should wire colour to colour, and not try and match pinouts. This I did. when I put in the manual ECU and attempted to start the car, nothing happened. A phonecall to FTG and a word with Mick, and it apears the codes need to be reset by ford, as the manual ECU has a different smartshield code than my ignition, and its not letting anything happen (essentially its saying i dont have the right key). I rang ford and they confirmed this. I was instructed to put the auto ECU back in, and LHM it to the nearest ford (deer park, about 35 normal minutes away). I put the auto ECU in and it struggled to start, ran like a dog and conked out. tried again and same thing, even with a bit of throttle, no go... like the firing order was up the duff. I rang Mick at FTG again and explained everything, and we found out that the origional advice was incorrect, and that I should have wired it by pinout rather than colour. This meant that the firing order was indeed out, as was the information the MAP and TPS would be giving, since the colours were in the wrong pinouts.

so I was advised to put the S2 plugs back on the S2 loom, and put the S2 loom in, and rewire the reverse light plug. I would have to find a way to bridge the inhibitor switch.

so i did all the rewiring of the plugs back onto the S2 loom, and popped it back in the car. I put the inhibitor switch from the auto onto its plugs, and turned the selecter to "nuetral".

Bloody thing still wont start.

cant believe how insanely difficult this operation is for AU series cars.

Have you tried turning the key to "on" then bridging the starter motor main cable with the solenoid apply wire with a screw driver?

It should start, then drive it to get it looked at.

no I havnt mate, Im a bit fuzzy on what you mean.

is the solenoid apply wire the small single wire plug on the starter motor?

Im not sure if the problem at the moment is the ECU codes (smartshield) not letting it start, or the auto inhibitor not realising its in nuetral.

looked at the E series resistor trick but I think 1 wire is coloured different, its not green and purple stripe, the only one close is green with black stripe, so cant even do the resistor trick.

well what he means
basically when u want the starter motor to turn over it sends power to the solenoid
if u bridge the solenoid wire with the power wire it will turn over like normal (you can use a screw driver), if u do this with the key on and it starts it means its starter related

the question was is the small single wire plug that plugs in next to the red main power cable the solenoid apply wire?

I have to be certain before I go arcing anything, might have the wrong one lol.

do you think I could push start it? If the ecu is not sensing neutral will it still delivery spark to the CP so I can push start it?

thats a very good question
it depends on how the ecu isolates the engine from starting, it either disables ignition and starter, or just starter

i cant answer that question
id say give it a go but itll be a pain to get back lol

as for the starter how many wires are going into the solenoid??

i need to know how to identify the solenoid first. Im not too flash at this electircs jig. Im assuming its the single wire plug that goes into the starter motor. on the SM itself theres the main red wire from the battery, the negative wire from the SM, and a single wire spade plug.

my brother says he knows a couple of guys he went to school with who might have an idea, but do you think he can organise to phone them no matter how many times I ask lol.

would the lack of resistors on the main plug stop it from starting? because without the resistors it has no signal to the ECU for trans temp, is it possible that this is keeping the ECU from allowing it to start?

it wont start with an auto ecu if it isnt being sent the signal that says its in neutral, so your going to need to do the resistor trick. as for which wires the resistors need to go on someone else will have to fill in that one.

im allmost certain that you bridge that one wire going into the solenoid with the batt+ wire, but i dont want to say go try it cause if something does go bad.

If you think about it though it has to be that wire as thats the only signal wire going into the solenoid, ive only actually done this on an older car.

well I dont believe that the resistor trick does the neutral switch. The two resistors go on the trans temp sense, and thermo fans wires.

I have the inhibitor switch off the auto pluged in, and switched to neutral, with the two black and red wires from the 4pin plug rewired to the reverse lights switch on the manual.

wierd because It should run fine without the resistors, from what ive been reading the thermos should just run constantly

just a suggestion check all your fuses/relays just incase that other loom screwed somthing up

well we arc'ed the starter motor, and it cranks but theres no spark.

the ECU is locking everything out, even though its the ECU for that car.

its definately the auto plug. since its not getting any reading for trans temp I dont think its allowing anything to happen.

But I cannot identify what the trans temp wires are on the plug.