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| bry40l |
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Quote: Thanks HUGGIEBEAR but i got it started today it turned out to be what APOC said, the two wires i plugged onto the neutral switch needed to be bridged, so i bridged them together and turned the key and she fired 1st go.... :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
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| TimmyAussie |
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I shall test and see how she goes.
Cheers for the Info, Tim. |
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| BenJ |
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A point re above. If the neutral switch was the problem it wouldn't even crank. The purpose is to stop the car moving forward while in gear, even cranking, but not starting, will have that effect.
Right then. The next step is to identify what ECU you actually are using and establish if it is a Smartlock or pre Smartlock ECU. Your J3 chip has the smartlock disabled? Check with the seller to confirm. Until we establish what the problem is, I would do all testing without the J3 chip installed. Cheers BenJ
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| Sefton |
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hey man i have a table in my build thread identifying all ea to ed ecus, telling you whether they're, manual auto etc and whether theyre smart lock or not. download/file.php?id=47256&mode=view
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| TimmyAussie |
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Thank you to sefton for the table.
Thanks to BenJ, I still havnt got the car running but I'm just using our second car for the time being, I'm going to go look now what ECU i got and i honestly don't think I have smartlock disabled on my chip, but from now on, all testing will be done without chip, then once I have it running i will start worrying about the chip. If I bridge the neutral switch and don't have anything plugged into the auto loom (circle plug) will the car start? or will it require me to do the resistor trick? Cheers, Tim. |
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| TimmyAussie |
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Ok, On the ECU Connector bit it says a few things
1F2H20 1DCC EEC-IV N-CAST NPF 2H204 ****BARCODE***** Serial # ETV-156 91DA-12A650-CC That is basically how it all looks ont he sticker. Ummm I can't work out if this is Smartlock enabled or not? The listing on here needs a ECU code... which is either "40" for No Smartlock or "A1" for Smartlock. Also this computer is for a 3.23:1 Ratio diff, didn't even know I had one, Sticker is peeled off or destroyed over time from the diff centre and I havnt been bothered to Spin my wheels and count the rotations in diff. I put the same Speedo Gear from my Auto trans back onto the Manual, so I'm guessing that will result in the same Speedo reading for my diff? Cheers, Tim. |
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| BenJ |
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According to the Fordmods ECU Catch Codes thread, the 1DCC ecu is a non smartlock ECU. I am satisfied that we have enough info know to say your car is a pre smartlock car with the correct ECU.
Have you considered if the black box you have mentioned is an alarm or immobiliser install? If it is, my suggestion is to remove it. Trace all the wires going into the box or connected to it on a wiring diagram to see what the original wires do, and then return all the altered wiring back to factory. Re the diff ratio, as I understand it the EB and ED Fairmonts all got 3.23 diffs. The Ghia models got an LSD 3.23. Installing the same speedo gear from your auto is the correct thing to do. Cheers BenJ
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| TimmyAussie |
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Thanks BenJ, I am going to take your advice. Good thing that wiring is my speciality. I was an Apprentice Sparky for 3 years. I have got the Ellery's service book, so it has got all the diagrams there. I will start UnImmobilising my car, lol.
Cheers, Tim. |
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| BenJ |
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Excellent. I look forward to hearing about how things go.
Cheers BenJ
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| TimmyAussie |
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Well ive uninstalled the immobiliser and she cranks with no problems now. But it wont fire, It sounds like it is trying to though. I'm pretty sure that the timing is off. I thought I installed it all correctly though? I set up the Dizzy to what I thought was sparking no.1 and put no.1 to TDC -10degrees (shows IGN mark on pully) and I am certain that it was on the Compression stroke. Which is directly after the intake valve pulls down?
Am I doing something wrong? Should I try loosening the Dizzy Hold Down clamp and and turning it slightly? I have a timing light.. But it's no good if she doesnt fire to begin with. Cheers, Tim. |
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| BenJ |
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Have you checked for spark?
It is also VERY easy to install the dizzy one tooth out, but I am not sure if you removed the dizzy. I presume you have also checked for fuel pressure at the fuel rail? BenJ
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| TimmyAussie |
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I did uninstall the dizzy and reinstall, 1 tooth out = no start? There certainly is fuel pressure, she is just not fireing which is why I think it might be out. Any good advice on how to acheive perfect dizzy setting?
Cheers, Tim. |
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| TimmyAussie |
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I also bridged out the TOP LEFT and BOTTOM LEFT pins on the Diagnostic port. Is this correct?
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| TimmyAussie |
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Damit, think i know what I did wrong... I didn't turn the crankshaft to TCD I turned it to 10 degree's before TDC marked "IGN" I think you set it to TDC and use the timeing light for IGN?
Opps.. |
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| TimmyAussie |
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I don't know what I'm doing wrong here. Need some more help. I'm trying to tune it, can't get it to sit at the 675 rpm that it says on front sticker. TOP LEFT AND BOTTOM LEFT bridged out = diagnostic mode? The car starts but is extremely lumpy, it feels like i have a massive cam in it as my mate pointed out. She doesnt hold for long either, I've tryed pulling out and re aligning the dizzy a few times. What else could be wrong here?
I definately have fuel and spark. Also when you point the timing gun down you the IGN mark with the notch in the pully? How much is one tooth out going to effect the timing? Also having a problem can't get the dizzy all the way down, it sits about 75% in, then when I crank the engine a little it drops down, then i retighten the hold down bracket. This normal? Cheers, Tim. |
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