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Top bellhousing bolts. 

 

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Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 1:41 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Not to self - Manual Conversion is not ideal for a 1 person job.
I've done my conversion and a couple of transmission removals on my own - so it can be done, but as always, another person/s helps cut down time.
I would sort it out now, the bolts are easier to get to with only a manual bellhousing in place, they only need to be loosened, clamp sorted, and retightened. The pipe does need reasonable support, you'll be surprised how a slight flex in the pipe will cause it to leak.
If you have probs getting to the drivers side bolts, jack the rear of the engine up, and access them with a ringy in the engine bay.

 

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Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:44 am 
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Yes one person job it is not, even worse when its an AUTO. I would suck it and see for the pipe bracket as manuals are critical to have the bellhousing alignment correct.

 

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Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 10:16 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
About 3 feet of extensions joined end to end with flex joints on some did mine. There is enough room for a socket with the rear mount disconnected so the motor drops at the rear. Otherwise an open ender/ring and then use another ring spanner on the open ender end to gain some leverage.


Like what he said^^^^^^, but drop the exhaust too, lets the engine sit down further to get a socket with swivel on it and about a 3' to 4' extension.

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:43 am 
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Well its all together and running.


Just my lack of manual skills which are letting me down.

James Bond would love a ride - His Martini would be defiantly shaken not stirred lol.


It seems to be ok. 2nd gear seems a little crunchy/notchy to get into - but I've never driven a manual falcon to compare. There are some rattles and vibrations etc around but I'm not sure of their source. Car seems to drive alright though. I've done probably close to 100km today, some freeway 100km/h driving and it seems to be holding up fine so here's hoping its all sweet.


Seeing I'm such a short a** I've had to move my seat closer so i can fully depress the clutch and reach the shifter in first gear :oops:

Just regarding the pick up point for the clutch - I've adjusted the pedal to ~140mm from the floor - Having never driven a manual falcon before I'm not sure where the pick up point normally is and it seems to be fairly high up in the pedal release, closer to brake pedal level then towards floor. Normal?



Lastly, heres my bellhousing bolt removal tool. It measureed 95cm :D

 

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:56 am 
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^^^^ FINALLY!!!! i read this whole bloody thread waiting for someone to mention about droping the exhaust! it drops the engine even further to the point where you can use a wobble bar, i dont know if you guys know what that is but it is basicly an extention bar with a special shape at the end which alows the socket to move almost as far as a uni joint but it is by far stronger (had many a uni go on me...ouch) and it does not have the bulkiness of a uni. any self respecting tool shop will have them. oh and i have done both auto's and manuals on my own... auto's a pain but can be done (with me good mate Mr Trolley jack, ive built a plate that mounts to the auto and the jack) but a manual is a peice of piss. I be that half you guys dont drop the bell housing off, Man its four bolts and it makes it 100% easier. thats my 2c.

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:56 am 
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^^^^ FINALLY!!!! i read this whole bloody thread waiting for someone to mention about droping the exhaust! it drops the engine even further to the point where you can use a wobble bar, i dont know if you guys know what that is but it is basicly an extention bar with a special shape at the end which alows the socket to move almost as far as a uni joint but it is by far stronger (had many a uni go on me...ouch) and it does not have the bulkiness of a uni. any self respecting tool shop will have them. oh and i have done both auto's and manuals on my own... auto's a pain but can be done (with me good mate Mr Trolley jack, ive built a plate that mounts to the auto and the jack) but a manual is a peice of piss. I be that half you guys dont drop the bell housing off, Man its four bolts and it makes it 100% easier. thats my 2c.

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:56 am 
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^^^^ FINALLY!!!! i read this whole bloody thread waiting for someone to mention about droping the exhaust! it drops the engine even further to the point where you can use a wobble bar, i dont know if you guys know what that is but it is basicly an extention bar with a special shape at the end which alows the socket to move almost as far as a uni joint but it is by far stronger (had many a uni go on me...ouch) and it does not have the bulkiness of a uni. any self respecting tool shop will have them. oh and i have done both auto's and manuals on my own... auto's a pain but can be done (with me good mate Mr Trolley jack, ive built a plate that mounts to the auto and the jack) but a manual is a peice of piss. I be that half you guys dont drop the bell housing off, Man its four bolts and it makes it 100% easier. thats my 2c.

 

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DESTROY ALL EVIDENCE THAT YOU EVEN TRIED


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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 2:06 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Just regarding the pick up point for the clutch - I've adjusted the pedal to ~140mm from the floor - Having never driven a manual falcon before I'm not sure where the pick up point normally is and it seems to be fairly high up in the pedal release, closer to brake pedal level then towards floor. Normal?
You can adjust the friction point a little lower to suit - won't do any harm. Obviously not right down at the floor, or all gears will be hard to select.

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 1:43 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
i told u gaz!!!!


LoL...and you didn't offer to help? you slacker :P

phong =P~


yer i did!

but gaz refused he did not want his car on fire again...



so gaz bring it around ill drive it for u

 

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