ay...............

So I drove my mates NC fairlane down from qld to vic (he has no license) anyways... his engine mount broke, or maybe it was two? .. either way the engine moved forward somehow and the clutch fan is up against the radiator (put a hole in it lol), thus the belt for the alternator/water pump etc. broke on the freeway, we just managed to get off the freeway where it stopped..

Now because the fan wasn't spinning (stops above 2,000RPM) .. in traffic she was over heating with all the bells ringing, but was pretty cool when traveling 70kmph anywhere up to 110kmph.

Now, I'm not sure if this played a role in the failure of this heap of s**t, but both shocks that were brand spank'n new (only had done the 2,000k trip down to vic) they burst, the a*** end was like sitting really low and really bouncy(not to forget bottoming out badly, drove it around a bit before taking it to K mart auto and tyre. Where they quoted $250 for springs to suit the shocks .. He said because the shocks were air pumped or w/ever that when changing shocks you should always change springs from factory, otherwise the problem will probably still happen. The guy at VIC Kmart auto and tyre said that, the guy in qld kmart auto and tyre should have put it new springs(to suit) the new shocks he put in.

To top it off, the RWC was only done on it about 4 days prior... by K Mart auto and tyres. and the car was only on the road 1 day prior to this all happening.

$2,000 PLUS ++++ was spent on it, new steering rack, new coolent, new oil/filter, gearbox reconditioned($800, yet it still slips and clunks into gears) -- but.... it wasn't on the receipt yet the $800 was paid for. So my mate is pretty screwed.

I don't blame Kmart tyre and auto, just won't go there for a while lol, I have all the parts (or 90%) to get his car going again... going to be a lot of hard work now.

The thing is, all they(K-mart auto and tyres) wanted, was money.. which is what everyone wants lol.... They picked up all the EXPENSIVE stuff, yet left out the cheap stuff... oh well the RWC would definitely been a bit dodgy, lucky enough to make to back to vic..




** also I need to tow it from another suburb(where it broke down--- to my joint) . I only have a 1600k tow pack, do you think it's worth the risk of towing a 1950k car (plus the weight of the tandem??)

could just hire a tow truck .
not sure on the laws on towing in VIC sorry ,
but if your going to hire a car trailer it should tow the NC with out probs . I towed my DC LTD from 1 side of sydney to the other side to my place in my 3.2L EA Wagon , so i shouldn't see a prob with the ED then , that is your desecion to do ?

As far as I am aware (and I don't think I have ever seen this law obeyed ) the tow car must outweigh the towed car by at least one third. So if you were to tow a car with an XH ute (weight of 2300 kg) the heviest vehicle I can tow (relative to towbar specs of course) is 766kg. That is my understanding and like I said I have never seen anyone get booked for this but I have never seen this law obeyed.

mate a 1600kg tow bar will work fine. I've towed my mates Nissan 180 on a trailer with a standard 750kg tow pack before. just not a smart thing to do all the time

Ive towed a few cars with my car, std tow pack you should be fiune just take it easy.

trick is to balence the load so the car sits flat then its easy as.

if you got the car to far back on the trailer it will lift the rear wheels and same the other way - tofar forward and you get very light steering and NO brakes.
And also dont use the winch to tie the car down with 2 ties downs at the front (lower control arms )and 2 at the back ( off the diff )

cheers for the replies !

well i'm going to sort out picking the car up some time wednesday, hopefully.... just need to look for a tandom trailer

petrol station rent them out sometimes, from mem theres a BP in werribee that does